Ovalrace25

OK-- Here is another one of my cars. Was up on jack stands when I went to look. Had battery problems, dried out tires and the interior is really SHOT. But after electrical sorting out, tires (a used set from another car) and brakes, it runs like a --- well -- Like a Cadillac

I have read all the old posts about the Bliss and other replicas. I and many others still have unanswered questions. First, Is there ANY online sources for info about the builders, how many were produced, WHEN they were produced and who still has them. AND of course how many are operable? This one is a "full scale" replica, powered by a one cylinder 4-stroke. It has a builders plate and serial number. YES, it has the very light duty bicycle wheels, but otherwise fairly substantial vehicle. I have another one that is described as a "1902 Cadillac" built in Florida. That one uses motorcycle wheels. MUCH more "road worthy" --- Tongue-in-Cheek of course...

And this one last week.. I hope to get more info about it. Not much solid info yet--- Any help out there? Builder's plate says Oregon Oldsmobile Company.

OK, No Still Shots for me-- A video to show it really does run!

That engine number is stamped onto the rough casting. It is not on a flat machined surface. If that engine number does not match the frame number, use only the number stamped on the frame for identification.

I need some help to figure out what the throttle linkage is supposed to look like. Automatic transmission with the electric modulator controlled by the switch on the intake manifold. A picture will really help. I have a shop manual coming, hope it has some good information. One picture is worth a thousand words. I'm working on a 1960 Rambler Cross Country station wagon. Push button transmission, one barrel carb. Overhead 196. Engine was apart and pieces missing, so it is a puzzle. What is the switch on the intake for? What is the switch that sees intake vacuum? Like I said, one picture is worth a thousand words

I should have been more clear.... The photo of the American with the clock is my car.. During the event where you took this picture, we talked about the clock and mount and the fact that my clock was not working. Since then I have repaired the clock to work... AND I bought another American Station Wagon, with out the clock option. That means I will also be looking for a complete clock and mount for the wagon. The mount LOOKS like something that could be cast using modeling products. But I am pretty sure that in plastic, it would not survive the hot sun..

I made a replacement piece and folded a piece of material to sandwich in between the piece and the roof. It kind of helps seal the door.

HA! I know where you saw this car. BTW, I cleaned the clock and it works fine now. I am online looking for a few more bits for this car and the 62 wagon I drug home. How ab out at least one Rambler battery cap? I can use it to make a mold and then cast some caps for my fake battery cover.

OK, So as I put the car back together, I am still missing this metal piece that goes over the driver door opening. AND I cant find one, not knowing what it is called. ALSO not sure, but I THINK there is supposed to be a rubber seal between it and the roof rail? Anyone Help here? Here are a couple photos, one (the right door) shows this piece in place. The Left door shows this piece missing.

Some of the 1-man shops are doing this now. There is a lot of phone time used up each day that limits MAKING special parts. For me, I NEED the internet and email to deal with everyone. I actually dont like the phone at all-- sorry--- Background Noise, robocalls, those folks that just want to see how yer doing.. AND yes, the calls for "how do i clean my stainless steel roof?" take so much TIME away from the customers that are impatiently waiting for their project to be finished. AND here I am taking time to write this--- I gotta get back to work now--

That's it! WOW Super Thanks!

Anyone help with the actual wording of the law that required a person to walk ahead of a horseless carriage waving a lantern if at night and a flag by day? Where is that online???? Need it asap for a presentation. I cant find it.

I sewed up a set and used stainless wire to attach. I have an old original that I use for a sample-- Leather is light green on the original. NO, I don't want to sell the original. I have a couple more cars to restore.

Great! Hope to talk with you soon!

OK, I was just about to walk away from the computer and go get some work done. But the challenge for "older readers" to comment got me going. I Started my magazine reading with Hot Rod back in the day when all the car-feature pages were in shades of green.. Yep, back in the 50's. Over the years, I have subscribed to so MANY magazines, I cant count them any more. Over the past recent few years I have found that some of the magazines sit on my desk and pile up until I can see over the stack. So I have been dropping subscriptions pretty regularly. I find myself on internet forums where I can participate and in some cases be a bit of help to other hobbyists. I don't need to see one more dyno test of a chevy small block build or another "how to rebuild your Delco generator". Even with my reduction in printed publications I look around my TWO desks and my drafting table and do not see an open space. In my recycle bin are several bits of advertising that fell out of the last magazine I opened. I am tired of the waste of paper and cost of all this STUFF. I am done with it all. If I need help or want to share what knowledge I have, I will do it here online in the proper forum. However, now I find myself caught up in the online world and when I do, I am NOT productive in my shop working on my cars or those of others that expect to see their restoration project actually leave my shop. So there fore, I have GOT to reduce the magazines and limit myself to the online stuff too! OK--- There ya have it--- another opinion-- I gotta get back to work

As an appraiser I am sometimes asked to verify if it is a numbers matching car. This I can NOT do nor will I EVER tell a client that I will VERIFY a car as such. A true, correct numbers matching cars will be original as the day it left the assembly line and even then it COULD BE NON-MATCHING NUMBERS. If you talk to ANY of the folks that worked an assembly line, they will tell you that when the line is running and somehow a vendor did note send enough pieces to complete the work, the line manager would send out to local parts houses to get parts needed to keep the line going. If ANY of you have attended an AACA C.J.E. class you should have been told this fact. Now, that said, I’ll add a personal experience: A few years ago one of my car-guy contacts decided to take a couple cars to a hi-end auction. Actually the SAME auction house where he had purchased the car a few years prior. This car was in his private collection and he NEVER drove the car at all… In other words, it was exactly the same as when he got it. The car was an amazing correct example. In fact, all his documents that came with the car when he got it at the auction included the wording “matching number correct original” – So at the auction with all documents submitted, they told him, “We will Not announce it as a matching Number Original” End of story--- Well almost--- There is always More to the Story.

Thought I would post a picture of the setup on my unrestored 1922 LaFrance. raining in sheets last night, so I did this real quick.

I'll toss my opinion in here... I APPRAISE cars that are donated to museums including the AACA. Actually I hear the reasons given by those who intend to donate and nearly 100% assume their cars and ephemera will become part of the "collection" for ever more... Totally false in EVERY CASE. What a shame, but not for me to give my opinion when performing my function as an appraiser. Now that this topic has hit home in this forum, I can let it all go. I TOO thought that a contribution to the AACA Museum was to support ALL OF AACA. No, I never really thought I needed to look closer at the relationship, heck, the publications I got from AACA asking to support "OUR MUSEUM" was enough for me. So what next? I will NEVER DONATE any of MY cars to ANY Museum where they become dead as a rock or hidden away or heaven forbid, SOLD out to general public to become Rat Rods or parts cars. My cars will go to a real car-person ONLY. Our cars need caretakers that maintain then in RUNNING CONDITION and get them out to public events when at all possible. They are to be seen, touched, driven and admired. EVERY CAR I have and or am involved with I try to do a video of and post in online for others to see. If I cant get out there to a show, I can point folks to the video. I get PLENTY of thank you messages from viewers from all parts of the world. They all love these cars and I am happy to share all of them in any way I can. NO Museums for me.

The county limits the number and size of out-buildings I can have on my 2 acres. BUT they don't tell me how many registered enclosed car trailers I can have. I have FOUR enclosed car trailers now.. All have cars and some restoration parts for some of the projects in them. ALL cars are looking just fine. AND ready to go when I want to drag a trailer to an event. My workshop has plenty of temperature change every day, Each time I roll up a door, in comes the current weather.. Not So with the enclosed trailers.

I have a lot of 341 and 353 engines, transmissions and STUFF-- But I am in northern Krazyfornia (California) Helps to mention where we are with big heavy parts like this. As I recall, Wayne is WAY closer to DRBS that needs parts

CHAIN DRIVE GUYS--- He wants a CHAIN DRIVE Chassis---- Sure he could do some machine work and fabricate up a converted conventional rear differential/axle and put sprockets on each axle shaft-- But he ALSO needs to give an idea about WHAT ENGINE he has so a chassis is about the right scale for this build...

Had him take my enclosed trailer with one of our local car club members 55 Chevy to her new home in New Jersey. YEP, A LONG haul for ONE CAR... But she is a special lady that was very active in the car crowd out here in Napa Ca. Darrin just sent me a picture of his BROKEN driveshaft on his 96 F-350 4X4 Diesel pickup. He is at about 101-109 Colonial Heights Rd in Tennessee, off of I-81. He will try to find a junk yard for a driveshaft, but I suppose there is nothing open until Monday. Anyone know the area? Suggestions where he can get a used driveshaft or have his fixed? BROKEN YOKE on one end. FYI--- He is going to get a 60 Cad for me up north then head back to California.. The trailer IS BIG ENOUGH for more STUFF----- If anyone has parts that need to come west..

In my racing days, I towed a 28" enclosed with three race cars--- (Yes 3) behind a 454 chevy powered 28' Winnebago. Towed up and down the west coast, Washington to Arizona. Hills could be a problem. But now am towing with my 2005 Dodge Cummins diesel and this thing is 100 times better and great on fuel. I'm thinking about a diesel pusher with a Cummins.

I need to keep this short.. Lost my Dad this week. But am trying to take a break and see what has been going on in the car world that he and I shared since I was a 4-year old kid when he put me in my first 1/4 midget. OK, since I have plenty of under hood experience with the 341 engines and Johnson carbs, I'm going to agree with a lot of what I read here. The Johnson HATES any pressure to it. adjustable regulators and electric pumps can lead to a disaster. Vapor Lock is a huge factor. This gas eats up rubber products not approved for fuel injection engines and modern gas. THINK ABOUT how vapor lock was dealt with in the 60's on Air Conditioned cars.... RETURN LINE------- THERE, I GAVE YOU THE CLUE, NOW FIGURE IT OUT.. I have to get back to my family...