Ovalrace25

YES! duh-- what was I thinking? And also airplanes used the canvas... Dang--- OK--- Now I have a few marbles in place and have something to work with.

Who is a good supplier of and what material grain types is my question of the day. I am doing a 1926 "woodie" and need to select the proper grain and material type for this project. PROBLEM is color will NOT be black. Looking for dark green or chocolate brown. Anyone?

WHO has these items? Any help out there? I cant get response from Gary Goers. I know he was looking for someone to take over his company. Anyone?

I kept fiddling around with the ignition switch and squirting penetrating oil into it and got it to work- So now I dont have to remove it. But the top flow control valve still is a problem. Anyone know if these cars have similar system as the Cadillac? (electric flow control valve under the carpet)

OK-- First one, how do I remove the ignition switch? What is the secret? Second-- Top goes down does not switch to go up-- Push the TOP "button and it goes down -- PULL it still goes down.. Car was in storage since 1964 --- Nice old Lincoln if we can sort out a few things..

Anyone drive a Studebaker? Anyone had your Borg Warner transmission rebuilt? The DG200 and DG250 are similar. BOTH have a lock-up converter. I am thinking this is where the problem is. Keep in mind, the car sat for a few years. But in a dry clean garage. Before it was driven, all fluids changed. BUT the converter was not drained. Only after the first test drive when the problem was found, then major transmission service, including valve body inspection, governor inspection and air pressure test to ports.

I am probably not using the correct terms here... So MANY variations of plastics! ALL of the outer "plastic" came off very easy. The "rubbery" clear material between the outer 1/4" plastic also removed very easy, actually falling off... NOW I have the two curved glass pieces 1/2" EACH to pull apart in order to removed the discolored material between them. These are not laminated "safety glass" pieces. They have not been bonded by pressure/temp. process. Total thickness of three layers of glass, plastic and rubber binding layer, 1 3/8"

It is not a hard epoxy---- It is a rubbery-like material that looks and feels like a silicone material. But sticks like glue.

The poly will be replaced- the glass is nice, but has the silicone type material between the glass that is foggy. Easy to clean the glass, but not until I can get the pieces apart. The car is almost ready for the glass... Think about what wet concrete/fiberglass mixture did to the doors and exterior sheet metal.. All the exterior panels rusted from inside out. Roof had a layer of mortar and a kevlar/cloth type material under a typical vinyl top covering. So it too was rotted and had begun to collapse into the pristine interior. The car will be part of a museum collection of other cars (some with interesting history) located in Vienna Austria. This car having been purchased by the DOJ Washington DC to include the presidential flag holders, dual electrical systems, radio gear and hidden lights and siren and assigned to the northern area of Los Angeles California, kind of takes on some kind of Presidential Use??? Yes, I have the log book!

I really dont want to get into this--- Last SEVERAL projects were all huge nightmares! But here go a few comments. The master cylinder IS lower than the calipers. You NEED residual check valves... Going bigger on the master cylinder only gives you a pedal so hard you cant stop... BLEEDING the system to get ALL the air out is a huge game to play! The rear calipers that have the park brake lever (GM units) require a particular procedure to insure they are properly adjusted before you try to bleed the system. DO NOT use silicone fluid! That in itself causes a "spongy/soft" pedal. Remember, the car stopped OK with stock drum brakes-- Adding front disc only, will help it more-- the rear brakes contribute the smaller percentage of stopping power, so what change them at all? Betcha could have skidded to a stop with the original system! It was the rear brakes skidding, not the front.. So if you want to stick with the 4-wheel disc and keep the master under the floor.. FINE-- Get the Electric Power Booster Master Cylinder kit and be done with all this! (do a google search) The car will stand on its nose when you touch the brakes. BUT only if you have some big rubber on the ground! if you have original tire size or reproductions, you will still-- Just Skid.

OK-- Did I get your attention? HOPE SO! I am working on the 76 Cadillac "BULLET PROOF" limo surplussed out by the DOJ. All the windows are curved and "glued" together consisting of an outer layer of Polycarbonate sheet 1/4" thick. Under that are two solid 1/2" layers of glass. Between each of the three pieces is some type of rubber material (silicone?) and a type of clear epoxy that seals and binds all three layers into one unit. VERY HEAVY! What has happened is, the 1/4" poly has gone bad and crazed. I have removed all of that and have the glass exposed, However, there has been some degradation of the "epoxy" material holding these together. This is where I need some help to remove this material, binding the glass together so I can clean and polish the glass. I have tried Acetone, Lacquer thinner and some solvents. Nothing works. I have also taken one of the windows (yep, the smallest one) to a couple glass companies and they dont want anything to do with it and zero help. Any ideas???

I just bought a decent looking 58 Ford Fairlane from a guy in Phoenix and am trying to get it to the DAS terminal Problem is he can not get it there himself. DAS can pick it up from his house next Monday or Tuesday, but that wont work for him, he will not return until next Thursday of Friday. That creates a second problem for me because I am taking my 89-year old Mom to see her sisters in Colorado which puts me GONE when DAS wants to deliver to me. DANG Complicated stuff just to get the car home! If I go into how complicated it has been to get the car paid for and the title signed, I could write a book! He is over off of East Cactus near Paradise Valley Mall. I think the DAS terminal is 10 miles away at 1966 E. Deer Valley Dr. Anyone available to go for a short ride in a 58 Ford today or tomorrow? I'll buy lunch at El Charro... Anyone tried this place in Mesa on 1st st off of Country Club lately? Still good?

Changed fluid after checking pressures. Checked detentes to be sure linkage was moving into correct positions. Pulled valve body to check if any springs of valves were stuck. Did air pressure test-- Seemed to be OK.. This one is in a Jaguar. Thanks 39_Buick I am checking out the links you provided.

This automatic transmission was used in a few cars in the early 50's. The one in this car worked great three years ago when the car was put away. NOW, getting the car out and going, the transmission LOCKS up and stalls the engine as soon as you select "D" -- If I quickly pull it down to "L" I can drive the car up to 15+, then shift up to "D" and go fine UNTIL I drop speed back down to where it downshifts.... Then it tries to lock--- BAN BANG BANG---- I have to put it into "N" really fast so it stops the lock-up attempt. I hope someone out there has WORKED on these or knows what this can be????

Rear seal is leaking. Not the oil pan, It is the main seal. QUESTION - Is this a ROPE SEAL? does it have a PIN in the block that hold it? Can I roll in a replacement? Is there a neoprene type seal available? YES, I want to do this in-car-- pull pan, roll in a new seal and back together... COMMENTS? HELP???

IF the cars is an American Manufacture, it will pass Customs Inspection quickly. If NOT, then you need to ask the Customs Office that will be clearing the car, just what is required. I have worked with Customs Offices in Texas, California and the east coast and NONE of them play by the same rules! So you MUST talk to the local office!

Hang a tow bar on it and hit the road. Just DO NOT EVER try to back up. OH-- and remember, now the tow car brakes have to stop a lot more weight.

Sorting all this out. Thinking what can I do with three burned up Harley Topper Scooters? I will try to save the 48 Indian. Will see who has pieces I need to save it. Anyone see any use for the Toppers?

OK-- Here is the problem I encountered. Wood frame construction in a rural area. Actually was surrounded with paved roadway. And we kept all brush clear. Because of this calamity a restored 1948 Indian, a Cushman 3-wheel ice cream scooter, thee Harley Toppers and many parts of projects were destroyed. The buildings nearby that survived were Brick and stone with metal and tile roofs. HOWEVER some of those also burned because the window coverings INSIDE were combustible. So- what suggestions do you have for the remains of the 48 Indian?

OK, No Still Shots for me-- A video to show it really does run!

OK---- Another one: This 1960 Rambler Town and Country station wagon was a "one owner" that had been in the garage of the little old lady that passed away. Seems that someone that ended up with the house pushed the car outside where it sat neglected for years. Last registered in 1971. I saw it when I was in the neighborhood and was able to bring it home. There are ZERO dents in this thing and the interior is well-----quite saveable.... Engine was stuck, so I rebuilt it. But the original condition is going to be difficult to change.. I want the next owner to see how straight this car is.

What next? Got 5 cars in this deal- That 57 Buick cleaned up fantastic! Plan was to keep two cars out of this deal. Got carried away and kept only one... oops But the Plymouth is in the hands of a guy that got it for his wife to drive around town. She LIKES the car.

And this one: My Trabant P-50. Really ratty, but it won at the Concours d'Lemons a few years ago.

OK-- You have me going here. This is the 1922 American LaFrance I talked the City Fire Department out of. They even delivered it! YES, I got it running.

And then there is this 1941 Cadillac. Found in an old garage with the transmission not working. No brakes, tires shot. and one rear spring broken. I had a bunch of spare parts ready to go. A few days later and some old blankets over the seats and I was cruising.