Real Steel

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About Real Steel

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    Huntington Beach, CA

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  1. Is this the stuff? You can buy it on eBay for $40. Not cheap, and it may be slightly past the "best if used by" date. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Indian-Head-Radiator-Cement-2-oz-Cardboard-Tin-Can-by-Permatex-/133182850332?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
  2. I would be the "Village Idiot" car. I sure as heck wouldn't want to be a "Smart" Car!
  3. Hi John, I replied to your PM with the info you requested. If anyone else would like more info about this switch mounting method, I can post some photos in a new thread (I don't want to hijack this thread). Alex
  4. For 1930s and older vehicles, I do know that sticking contact points at the generator cut-out is not so unusual. If the points remain closed after the motor is turned off, the battery will short right through the generator to ground. A lot of current can pass through a 16G wire, and a fire is very likely.
  5. After a generator cut-out fire (right next to the carburetor) in my 1929 Hudson Coupe, I've installed a battery switch in every vintage vehicle that I've had since. I strongly encourage my friends to do the same (right Matt?). To all the great folks here at the AACA, please do this small safety modification to protect your historic vehicle, and possibly your life. This is my easy-to-reach switch mounted in my current unrestored daily driver, a 1930 Ford pickup...
  6. I love that great patina on your truck...it's rich in stories without uttering a sound! Its my hope that not all your vehicles will be restored, but rather that some will be left in their original unrestored state. The appreciation of original vehicles is one of the fastest growing corners of this lifestyle...and it's also the corner that looses more examples each year than any other element of the vintage car world.
  7. I was trained as an aircraft mechanic, and I still have my FAA A&P licence. My directive was usually simple: replace hardware with the specified hardware, and fasten it per the specified method. Your question is too complex to pull the answer from a typical mechanic's resources. Instead, you need Engineering help...and it looks like you're getting it. Best of luck!
  8. Hey Keiser- Maybe you or the next owner could give it a good spraying of Mineral Oil. At least that would put the brakes on the decay.
  9. I like to keep mine original, so this is perfect for me. All I need now is a couple of dead horses...
  10. Looks like a mid-1920's Chevrolet, but slightly different. Another GM product maybe? Or perhaps a European version?
  11. Congrats on your 'new' lathe! A lathe is essential for working on vintage cars...and vintage anything! My first lathe (1938 Sheldon 11") looked much worse than yours, so don't fret. I just recently started my second lathe (1948 South Bend 9"), but it will be kept as 'original' as possible...just like my cars.
  12. Have you heard the latest news?! They're going to take the Declaration Of Independence and restore it. Yep, turns out that some of the ink has faded and chipped, and the paper is mashed at the corners. The plan is to strip the ink off, bleach the paper, and then press it flat. The writing will be reapplied with carefully matching ink and rewritten in the same way it was done 'originally'. Truly, it will be 'restored to like new'. Sound absurd? Of course. Yet this is a completely accepted practice by vintage car owners. Antiques Roadshow experts say "keep it original" (yes, they say the word 'Original'). American Pickers also say the same thing. MANY people on this forum, and around this county and world, now say 'keep it original'. Peoples' definition of 'ORIGINAL' can vary greatly, but it would be ridiculous to get into an argument of semantics. In your hearts, you already know what an 'original' car is. At least for most of us anyway.
  13. Five of my six kids had/have great old cars and trucks for their first rides. Here is one of my boys with his '68 Chevy pickup and me with my 31 Ford pickup.