Pete O

You need to get a shop manual for your '49. It has indispensable information: Here's the body mount info for my '51

Wait, here's another illustration of the rear pump, and parts I and J, planet carrier thrust washer front and rear, look more like your picture. Part numbers are front: 1333095 rear: 1334100. And sure enough, there's a 1334100 for sale on ebay, $16.99 https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-BUICK-DYNAFLOW-TRANSMISSION-PLANET-THRUST-1948-1955/370767792466?epid=673230622&hash=item56537b8952:g:B0UAAMXQOT5RAB~Z

Here's an illustration of the parts in the converter. The picture doesn't show the parts in great enough detail, but it looks like it might be AJ, AG, AH or AE. Where was the ring located when you disassembled the converter? Let me know which one it is and I'll look up the original part number. I've had success using the part number in an eBay search, and finding original Buick parts for sale still in the orig wrapper!

Please enlighten us!

...and weight is also a driving factor for smaller aircraft. A flathead is inherently lighter than on OHV: No rocker arms and shafts or studs, no pushrods, no valve covers, smaller/lighter head casting....

The NYT loves to publish this kind of article. They firmly believe internal combustion is bad and is killing the planet, and electric is clean and will save us all. They fail to consider that the electricity is generated by (mostly) coal burning power plants, but that's just a minor fact that shouldn't get in the way of a political position.

yup, here's the thread from 6 years ago:

I recall seeing a thread about a Ruxton where if my memory isn't failing me, they lined the water jacket with cement! I'll search for it....

I have this exploded view of a Lincoln distributor with the parts identified. Might be of help....

The wear on the parts may have resulted in both parts being out of round. Fixing only one might not cure the fit problem. My approach to this would be to true up the male part on a lathe, and fit an undersized bushing on the female part, reamed to match the new diameter of the trued up male part.

All right, I take it back. Chane could very well be Shane....

Well that's not good enough for me. If the family wants the name to be pronounced Shane, the should spell it Shane with the S. Chane is pronounced Chane with a CH. Spellings has consequences. Reminds me of a joke I heard about a woman who was mad people mispronounced the name of her daughter. Her name was Le-a. People would say "Lee" or "Leah" but the woman corrected them that they were omitting the dash, and the girls name was "Ledasha"

As far as the multi meter dropping to 0 and then to 3 and 4, are you using a digital meter? The digital meters often do funky things as the voltage changes. A good old meter with a needle is best.

Will these work: http://www.oldbuickparts.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=clutch+pedal&search_in_description=1&x=5&y=7 They say they fit 64-72, which doesn't help with your 63, but they might be close...

Original bracket was stamped sheetmetal and mount on top of the bumper.

Is there any indication that the frame was ever in an accident? Could those markings have been from a technician who was attempting to straighten the frame? North, South, East and West are often used by gantry crane operators to describe the direction to move the crane. They could be references to the direction the bending forces were being applied on the frame jig.

Terry, that's not actually completely correct. It's when the current STOPS flowing that a spark occurs. When the current is flowing through the primary winding it creates a magnetic field. When the current stops (with the points opening) the magnetic field collapses and induces a high voltage in the secondary winding in coil, causing the spark. So if you can't stop the current from flowing you'll never get a spark. That's why I advised jharold64 to check for continuity between the points arm and ground. If something is grounding out that points arm, the current will continuously flow and the opening and closing of the points is meaningless.

You have to be systematic and trace it at every step of the way. You've ruled out the ignition switch by running the jumper to to coil directly, so that's a start. With the switch on , put the test light on the negative pole of the coil- it should light. Move the light to the movable arm of the points. With the points open, it should light. Now you know you have power all the way to the points. Then isolate the points arm from the fixed contact (a piece of paper works). With the ignition off, using a multimeter check for continuity between the points arm and ground. There should be zero continuity. The points arm should be isolated from ground. If you have any continuity, there is something within the distributor that is shorting out. Is the spring on the points arm making contact with the dist. body? Is the flag connector on the capacitor touching anything.

To see if your trouble is due to a short in the distributor, do this: Start it and advance it to where it stalls. Do not move the spark lever. Remove the dist cap and body and without moving the upper plate stick a piece of paper between the points if they are closed. If open not necessary. Then using a multi meter, check for continuity between the point arm and the body of the distributor. There should be zero continuity. When opened the movable points arm is isolated from ground. If you have continuity it means that something in the primary circuit is grounding/shorting out. Those modern upper and lower plates, with the springy power connection and shoe from the points to pick up the power are finicky sometimes, make sure that shoe and the screw that holds it does not touch the dist body as you rotate the upper plate. I had this set up, and tossed it in favor of the original "pigtail" wire that connects the lower plate to the points. Fewer parts to go wrong.

I get that percolating sound in my '15 T a little while after shutting the engine off and the fan is therefore not cooling the radiator. It never boils over while while driving, and I haven't had to add water ever. I suspect the percolating sound is normal in a shut down engine.

I had run hot issues until I bit the bullet and pulled the head and cleaned out the crud around the water jackets. Half the jacket around the #8 cylinder (by the firewall) was filled up with a hard rust sediment that no amount of flushing would have ever removed. If this has never been done in the 60+ years on your engine, it's the only way to permanently and accurately address the root cause of your issue.

I suspect that a 60+ year old rubber part, even if it is NOS, is probably too brittle to be of use other than as a conversation piece.

If you're using an oil based paint, you can fill a large enough container with mostly water, and float just a layer of paint on top. As you dip the piece through the paint layer, by the time it hits the water it is covered in a waterproof coating and it will not wash off or harm the paint. I've experimented with this technique on smaller pieces and it does work.

Care to educate us then?

Do what JohnD1956 suggested. Get a voltmeter or test light and with the ignition on, put one then the other lead on the meter on one coil post and the other to ground. Any voltage? If not, the ignition switch could be the problem. If you do have voltage, then remove the distributor cap and check if the points are opening and closing when you crank the engine. Clean the point contacts with a file and re- gap the points. Put the high voltage wire from the coil near a ground source and open and close the points with the ignition on and you should see a health spark.