studeboy

I use straight 30 w detergent oil in my rebuilt 1940 commander ( same basic engine).

2 volts used to be the standard for trains.

You should be able to depress the horn button and turn counter clockwise until it releases.

Erskine???

You realize that parts for theses engines are getting scarce? Does you engine have adequate power? Does it foul plugs? If it seems like a good runner and maintains oil pressure I wouldn't rebuild it. I rebuilt my 1940 226 and replaced the rods with 1948 shell bearings rods from Steve Allens many years ago. They are very durable long running motors. The Mains are shells in your engine I believe so those are easy to replace if you can find them. I was lucky to find a blacksmith shop run by an 80 year old who had rebuilt plenty of what he referred to as studebaker truck engines. He did all the machine work on mine. He's long gone now sadly.

Not according to the parts book. The hood handles and locks were the same but the part number for a special six EH and EL hood from 1919 to 1922 was part number 42175 for all those years. The Big six hood was part number 205270 from 1920 to 1922. I think you need a hood from a special six made between 1919 and 1922.

The Remy generators used on the GE Dictator can be used on the light six. They are all cast not pot metal.

Did you try a shot of ether or spray of gas in the throat of the carb? Just because its getting to the carb doesn't mean it's getting to the engine. If it run momentarily with shot of ether you may have clogged jets.

Yes definitely 48 to 52 Ford.

Some tractor charging systems with a 3rd brush have the small wire go to a lighting/ charge control switch. it has a resistance coil in it. Pushed all the way in gives minimum charge rate. Pulled out to the first notch gives a high charging rate. Pulled all the way out turns on the headlights and the high charging rate. I have used and seen Massey Harris and John Deere tractors with this set up.

In the third picture in the middle the tin metal circle with rubber bushings is for a horn. Looks very similar to the one on my 1940 commander.

The middle car looks like a studebaker.

I live in a very rural area that should be safe for driving my 1940 studebaker. Unfortunately it is not. I can cruise in the interstate all day at 65 with the car and keep up. However when I am out on the road people in modern cars take incredible risks to get by me. They pass over double lines on blind curves up hill to get by me when i am going at the legal speed. This especially happens on back roads. I have a lot of sympathy for my amish neighbors when I drive my prewar car. Some of them get killed every year around here.

That style generator will also fit the light six back to 1920. it would be a newer replacement without pot metal components like in the original in the light six. Bolt up match.

X197????

If it is a 1937 studebaker it should be built either on a Dictator/ Commander chassis or a President chassis. If it is a 6 cylinder it is the first type. If it is a straight eight it is a President chassis.

Light six for sure.

The nineteen thirty nine and forty commanders and presidents had electric wipers. The same motor as a Lincoln of the same vintage I believe?? Motors manual 12th edition has a good writeup on the units and how to service them.

For the interior door and window handles the ring closest to the fabric has a spring behind it. Press it in and you should see a pin through a hole in the handle. Remove the pin and the interior handle should come off.

There are used ev cars in the 18 to 20 thousand range at least here were up until 2 months ago. On cars.com you can find used Chevy Bolts in that range. I have several friend who have purchased them through such sales. They are not rich. There will be a lot of used ev's in a few years. The trick will be to get one that wasn't abused as it is with all used cars.

I thought it might be a door closing devise to a door that swings in both directions. Such as used in commercial Kitchens or hotels.

I was thinking a light six touring from early 20's. It doesn't have sheet metal over the frame by the running boards. Light sixes didn't have metal there just the frame rail. Not sure about special and big sixes.

It amazes me how when a new technology emerges some people have to race to run it down even without any experience. I was an early adaptor of a hybrid car. I live in a northern climate. I was immediately told by people with no experience that the battery would be dead at 30 below and it would never work in cold weather.... Guess what the hybrid with its very large battery has never not started at 30 below. it actually starts better in the cold than any other car I have ever owned. A mechanic also told me that it was a bridge and I should wait to 2010 and get a hydrogen fueled car there will be no hybrids by then. Ddid n't happen. I have female friend who bought a Chevy Bolt last year. She just drove to Florida and back along interstates with a side trip to the Blue Ridge highway. Not a hitch along the way . Google was her friend in finding convenient charging stations.

I thought I had the parts books to help you but I don't have a listing for a 1928 Commander. Your car is in fact a GE dictator type 2 (they made three model changes or type of GE's). From my parts book your brake shoes are part #127775. The 29 commander took shoes number 165559. The only thing that crosses from your car to the commander is the brake lining part #165716. That being said I don't have the numbers for a 1928 commander and knowing studebaker they could be different. Maybe some one on here has the part number for the 1928 commander.

Some ground driven (usually horse drawn) farm equipment used universal joints some what like that. I remember an old corn binder that had such a universal joint. Didn't operate at as high speeds as most drive shafts.