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Canadian PB Kid

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  1. My heater core was plugged and I used a mixture of citric acid & tap water to clean it out, filled it up, let it soak for a couple days, now water flows at full rate, Is the water pump moving enough coolant... impeller? Dave STAY SAFE!
  2. I slid under the back end my PB to see I could figure out where the water actually does drain to after it runs through the holes in the rear floor (marked with pencils in post #2). It seems the water does not directly run out onto the roadway, I marked in white chalk the approximate area on the fuel tank support cradle of where the holes in the rear floor pan above are draining onto. There is about 1/4" space between the two panels around the floor drain hole area, enough for water to drain onto the gas tank. Hope this helps! Dave STAY SAFE!
  3. Well... that wasn't too bad, I mounted one of the Mustang Bushings on a bolt with washers on each side that were just oversize of the size that I wanted to grind it down to. Then I mounted it in my drill and ground it down on the grinder to proper size, Took about 15 minutes per bushing. It did make a bit of a mess but I mounted my shop vac by the grinder and it took most of the debris. I did get a bit overzealous on one of the later ones but a couple that came off the car were good enough to reuse. Thanks for the advice! Dave STAY SAFE!
  4. Hello, I'm trying to locate the shock link bushings for my PB. I tried Andy, Steele Rubber and a few other sources with no luck. In checking the United Motors section of the 1934 parts book I read that the same bushing (#3- PN# 41133) was used between 29 and 32, so I suspect that others have had to replace these bushings and I'm wondering what others have used. I've also tried the aftermarket route which I'm still working on, by trying to reduce the OD of those bushings to 3/4" from 1-1/16", any suggestions on reducing the OD of a rubber bushing? Thanking in advance, Dave STAY SAFE!
  5. Well, the guy at Mustang place finally got a link kit and two of the dimensions of the bushings are correct for my application, the pin fits quite tightly and the bushing will fit between the link ends if I was to remove about 1/8" but the outside diameter is much too large for my eyelets, so, two thoughts come to my mind, is there a way to turn a the rubber bushing down to 3/4" and the other is did the Mustang guy sell me the correct kit, I didn't get a box. Has anyone gone this route for these bushings? Dave STAY SAFE!
  6. Jeff, What body style(s) are these used on? Thanking in advance, Dave STAY SAFE!
  7. For the past few days I've been trying to track down these bushings for my PB, First I tried the aftermarket, NAPA was twice as much as the Moog (which is now superseded to K700528) and both had blue bushings, I googled the Ford part # C0DZ 5A486 BR and saw a few kits with black bushings on ebay. I got in touch with a local Mustang shop confirmed with him that their bushings were black and then ordered a set from him, they should be here next week.... bushing size should be 3/4" round with a 3/8" hole. The application is 65-67 Mustang stabilizer link kit ...I'll post on what arrives next week. STAY SAFE!
  8. Scott, I'm glad you posted this topic as I've been pondering the same concerns with my PB roadster. Your inside quarters look pretty much like mine. The 1933 parts book list a "deck lid weather-strip" for the PB (PN# 330621) along with a retainer (PN# 332529). For convertible couple there is a "deck lid weather-strip" listed for the PC & PD (PN# 457024). There are no illustrations on what they look like or where they mount. I've looked at a couple of Chrysler products which have rumble seat at shows and so far non have had a weather-strip and when I inquired about one they all referred to the drip rails, I didn't bother asking about where the water drained to. It appears that the drip rails would divert any water that got pass the weather-strip into the rear of the body and onto what looks like a catch basin, mine has three holes (marked with pencils) for the water drain out but I can't believe that Walter Chrysler would have designed it this way. Hope this helps, Dave STAY SAFE!
  9. Thanks for asking, I've been sitting (and still wobbling) on the fence regarding this for quite some time, so I'll try and explain my situation. First I'll admit I'm not an expert in restoration and have no experience in doing body work so I'm more on the preservation route. So far I've been able to remove most of the 2nd (Yellow), 3rd (Dark Red) and a forth coat (Brighter Red) which was house paint leaving me with the factory Uhlan gray enamel. If there is a method (and I'm sure there is) where I'd be able to fill the couple dozen (there were some other moldings installed) 1/4" holes and be able to refinish just the 1/4" spot, then I definitely would go that route. Someone suggested epoxy but had no proven experience. Any suggestions? My first step was to ID the ornament and see if any could be located to cover up the scars of past. Thanking in advance, Dave STAY SAFE!
  10. WOW! A big atta boy to you Craig. They certainly do look like the ornament. Would you or anyone else know if it is the same rear fender ornament used on both models with or without the mid quarter chrome trim?? Thanks again, Dave STAY SAFE!
  11. Hello All, Greetings from Canada!....I would like to know if anyone can help identify and perhaps know of a source for these trim pieces that had been installed on my 1932 Plymouth's 1/4 panels sometime in the early 1950's, the car was found in 1957 with 3 of the six still installed. It appears that the red insert is a vinyl tape.... I'd like to replace at least the missing three and if possible, all six.... Thanking in advance, Dave STAY SAFE!
  12. Ok Thanks!... while reading the Plymouth parts book I see that the the earlier Plymouth models have different parts listed, so most likely similar to yours. How late did Chrysler have the folding windshield?.. from what I understand 1932 was the last for Plymouth. I picked up my frame from my metal guy, he noticed that the left bolt bracket was cast brass and the right one was cast iron....Is that normal?... he was also amused at the profile of the frame... it appears to be drawn from one piece and then formed to the shape of the cowl... I'm still in need of a pair of locking blocks and the lock/finished washer... Has anyone had to have these blocks made? I was considering trying nylon... any thoughts on this?...... I was able to find a screw that will work. Thanking in advance, Dave STAY SAFE!
  13. looks like the top one has "F" on both ends of the gas gauge....
  14. Thank you for posting a picture of your hardware, Are these extras? I'm interested in the two pivot blocks if they are available. The screw and chrome washers appear different from the ones I removed, what model are these parts from? Thanking in advance, Dave STAY SAFE!
  15. Yes, a picture is worth a thousand words and those pictures certainly spoke volumes, they clearly gave me the proper direction. Thanks Sasha39. I heeded the earlier "Good luck" and soaked the whole windshield in citric acid for a few days before trying to remove the bolts. The bolts came out without too much work and no incident. As recommended, a few stern alternative taps with a block of hardwood and the top bar slid out and I was able to remove the glass. I then re-soaked the frame in the acid for a few more days. It has from what I've read the usual issues around the bottom corners but over all it still is solid considering it's 89 years old, I've taken the frame to my metal guy and he's going to repair the lower corners. I'm not sure if Chrysler had the same type of seals but would anyone have or know the profile of the proper rubber seal that slides into the outside edge of the frame? I've seen a few at local shows on different makes but none appear to fit proper. I require a few items which are pictured here, I'm sure the screw isn't a big issue but I'd like to find the proper washer, oh, and the pivot blocks I require two. Thanking in advance! Dave STAY SAFE!
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