RAH

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About RAH

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  • Birthday 01/22/1941

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  1. Trini and guys you do NOT need to pull the steering wheel to access the horn wire. That horn wire is fastened to the button in canter of the bakelite levers which are secured to concentric shafts and secured at the bottom of the steering gear with those linkages to the timing and throttle override. Take MANY pix BEFORE disassembling those. You will need to pull those levers out a bit and find a snap ring that holds the bakelite horn disk to a notched flange on the inner (smaller diameter) tube. The horn wire extends through a fitting in the top flange. It is soldered up at the top and extends all the way down inside that tube and exits past those adjustment fittings and continues over to the frame and goes up PAST that terminal block and continues in back of the vacc tank over to one of the two terminals on the horn. The other horn terminal goes back to that terminal block to the bottom (power) terminal. Been there and done that. Not an easy fix. Good Luck!
  2. Guys and Broker-Len, If you note the oil pump is inside the engine near where that projection sticking out where the oil pressure relief spring is located and supplies oil to that galley along the side just under the water side plate. That oil exits that galley and 'Ts' where the oil pressure gauge line and the line through the filter and directly back into the block just under where the filter is mounted. The filter has nothing to do with cleaning oil TO the rods, etc. It is a bypass system and filters out 'Stuff' in a direct loop from that galley back to the pan. Just F.Y.I.
  3. Dale, Additionally I am curious why there would be two transmissions back top back. Obviously this was intended as a tractor designed for torque not speed. I suspect in granny low on both trannies you could walk along beside it at a slow pace without much effort!
  4. Dale, As was mentioned the engine numbers were roughly 50,000 higher than the car chassis number which would make the chassis number around A-120,000 ish. Unfortunately that chassis number will be partially obscured by the ONLY remaining fender. That number will be stamped on the side of the frame up under that fender near or above the rear spring shackle and will be prefixed by the 'A-" Judging by the steep angle of the toe board I would suggest this chassis was a roadster in a previous life. Are there any numbers stamped on the engine side of the firewall? Normally these body numbers would be irrelevant in identifying vintage but in this case there may be a prefix of either A 'T' or a 'R' before that number which could assist in the body type.
  5. There is NO serial (or part ) number on the chain. That is simply the starter/generator drive chain. You mention '17 as the year of your car. Check the car serial number . That chain was 84 link side guide 3/8" pitch chain up to car serial number 234902 (Mar 4 '18) when they switched to 82 links. Check with Tom Myers Early Dodge Parts 734-856-1207 OR check with George Farrel at ROMAR at 315-924-2490. Be sure to mention your car serial number. Good Luck.
  6. It appears to be an aftermarket under dash accessory . With three pins for connection it is obviously a S.P.D.T switch and would possibly be for operating a also aftermarket electric motor controlled radio antenna.
  7. Dave, Welcome to this forum. Your chassis serial number will be found on top of he frame cross member just ahead of the seat (under the floor boards) on the pass. side. It may also be found on a data plate fastened to the upper toe board. That is the one the starter switch and steering column are fastened to. Your engine number just above the carb on a boss should be appx. 50,000 higher. The body number probably stamped in the firewall prefixed with R- will be totally irrelevant as there is no correlation in production sequences to body numbers. Good Luck.
  8. RAH

    Old tools

    Just Dave, Is this what you are looking for? I had one some years ago but just went out to garage and cannot find it. It has been loaned to many of the local car members over the years and somehow It has not returned. I found it at a local swap meet not long after seeing this pic in the '34 Truck repair manual. I saw that weird thing and asked the seller what the heck is that thing? He said 'don't know. I asked how much? I believe he said $15.00 and I said sold. This is one of those tools one acquires over time and use once or twice then loose it . Good Luck finding one.
  9. Guys, I see the starting crank sticking in front so wouldn't be too difficult to see if the engine is froze up. By the way, actually the 1919 sedan was the first transition from center door to four doors. Jay states several things I would look at before buying, such as is there a spare wheel and carrier on rear? Also condition of wood seats, seat springs, upholstery, inner / outer door knobs pillar lock, etc. Further the chassis number on '22 will be on the frame cross member just in front of the seat on Pass side and on (if there is one) the metal tag on the upper toe board. The chassis number switch to side of frame rear of front spring (where they would likely be prefixed by the letter "A") did not happen until the major frame change in '24. The engine number should be appx. 50,000 higher than that chassis number. The body number will be found stamped into the wood at the rear door threshold and possibly under the bottom of that door. I chose to NOT do a complete restoration of mine rather do all mechanical and safety things to get it roadworthy and leave it as a 'Barn Find' with all it's original 'Patina'. In addition there may have been originally a Stewart model 158 single bar bumper front and rear. Good Luck and enjoy the search!
  10. Timcarguy, That is definitely a '22 Type A sedan as far as I can see ,depending on upholstery. Type A had striped grey broadcloth Type B (business) had leather and the front seat was able to fold forward to get packages into the rear. I do notice it has the original Leece Neville 'FatMan' steering wheel. Where is the car located? I purchased one very much similar condition from a fellow at a tax lien auction. One thing to consider is these disk wheels are one year only and first year for disk replacing previous wire wheels. The '23 disk wheels are different where the disk fastens to the rim. Anyone taking on this project should be able to do Much of your own wood work as the cost of a restoration shop will make it economically unfeasible to ever recoup any investment value. In this current state, given there are many things not readily evident, would be as mentioned $2,000 to $4,000 Enjoy the ride.
  11. Mike, et all. Sorry to be so tardy with this response. The pic of your door shows a aftermarket switch . These were made available from several sources over time. The original switch was made by Garford and on the back are words to that effect I submit a rather crude drawing since I couldn't find one in my stash clear enough to be photographed. The original horn WIRES P/N L4315 were in fact a twisted pair of cloth covered rubber insolated wires not unlike early vintage lamp cords. These wires exited in back of the door upholstery panel, as mentioned by 'Near Chocolatown' just below the hinge and went directly to a 'Wire clip' P/N L3605 which was fastened by the windshield stanscion retaining nut. That wire harness continued up under the dash and was interrupted by cutting one of the pair of wires and fastened another twisted pair in a "T" format which went over to the ammeter. One of those wires had a terminal fastened to the ammeter connection for power and the other wire had a terminal fastened to one of the ammeter mounting screws for ground. The wires from the switch then continued past that "T" out through a grommet in the firewall to the horn. According to various master parts books that original horn switch was used through all the horn variations . As previously mentioned the touring did NOT have map pockets in the front doors, only on the rear doors. On tourings the switch fastened through the upholstery panel to the door superstructure via self tapping sheet metal screws. On the roadster the switch was riveted to that map pocket flap and could rise with the flap. On virtually all the early DBs that switch was ergonomically fastened such as to be operated by the driver's knee while both hands were busy operating the steering wheel and gear shift, etc. That goes for the closed cars as well. I hesitate to get off subject here as was done earlier but there was in fact a wooden bodied touring early on made by the K.R. Wilson Mfg. who made truck bodies. These were intersperced with regular Budd bodies from around S/N 14500 through 38000 (ish). The sheet metal was from Budd who could not create complete bodies as fast as the Brothers Dodge were creating chassis. There were NO wood roadsters. As to the other reference to DB wood bodies the Closed Car (center door) and subsequent Coupes were wood framed and built by Dodge Brothers and covered in Budd sheet metal. Apparently Budd had a design for 'All Steel' closed cars early on but the brothers resisted. You may note the Dodge line of 'All Steel' closed cars did not happen 'till after both brothers were decased! I hope this helps clarify the original query.
  12. Way back in the early 70s I built this motorhome on a '32 Dodge 1 1/2 T langendorf bread truck . It was a blast when the kids were young. When we drove into a camp ground it drew people like flies on a pile. The table in the rear folded down for wifie and I bed and the kids slept on bunk beds behind the driver seat. It had a Ice Box just inside the side door and a camp stove next to it. We enjoyed it to the mid to late 80s when I sold it to a fellow from Montana who was going to live in it while building his home. Sorry I do not recall his name drat! It would be interesting to see if it still exists. Thanks for looking.
  13. I did not notice the original query was that old. Bob, Isn't the speedo drive behind hat cardboard tag?
  14. Guys, With the lever for compound clutch it is after '19 and since it does not have 'lock in neutral' it should be from '19 to '23. The internal gears should be interchangeable from around '16 - '17 to at least '23. With some slight variations of placement of and direction of the speedometer drive gear.
  15. Mr X, It looks like that thin DB aluminum sliver is glued or somehow fastened to that brass part. Is that a possibility?