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studeboy

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Everything posted by studeboy

  1. Yes that simple. And give it a turn every so many miles to relubricate until it bottoms out. A system commonly used on farm machinery in the early 20th century. No need to even have the grease gun handy to grease the fitting.
  2. There certainly were traffic rules before automobiles. It was up to each state and locality. I know of a rule book for a local cemetery that forbid horses from being driven at more than a staid walk. it was written in the 1880's. As for backing up horses.. a good teamster could back a wagon into an unloading bay. I live in the midst of an Amish community and I see them do it all the time. I also worked with horses growing up on the farm and we often would back a team up. Tales a little persuasion but a well mannered team will do it.
  3. My 1928 GE Dictator was originally Spruce Green and Dove Grey according to the paint code under the rear seat. There are places on the car where you can see the original Spruce Green color. It appears to match the engine color as duplicated by many vendors. Since 1928 was when Studebaker first started painting engines green I suspect this may have been the source of the engine color originally.
  4. My grandparents had one just like it for a front door stop.
  5. Parts books says they fit 1922 EJ and 1923 and 24 EM .004 oversize with 11/16 diameter piston pin. Four ring type.
  6. I own a 1940 Studebaker commander. That is not a bumper for a 1940 commander or president as they took the same bumper. There are extra holes in the posted bumper that aren't on those two model Studebakers.
  7. I am not sure if these will help? They are from a late 1922 light six trunk. The metal edge of the trunk area is a separate piece screwed into the wood. It sticks up slightly above rest of body metal and the trunk has a curved lip that hangs over it. By 1925 they may have gotten more sophisticated.
  8. Based on my light six roadster. I would agree that it was a trunk opening as you mentioned the hinges were on the top not the bottom.
  9. I used a toggle switch that returns to the off position when you release it. Works well no danger of forgetting to shut it off.
  10. The wagner for 1920 is Wagner model EM201 studebaker part number 30468. They changed in 1922 to Wagner S 400 studebaker number 10542. The remy number is Remy 736A st part #39680 or Remy 732A st part # 105959. The latter was used at least until 1925. Some one who has worked on these can verify fitment. This is just from the parts catalog.
  11. I have the 1919 to 1922 parts book and the same parts as Gary listed are used at least back until the 1919 Big six.
  12. Here the tool I use to identify NYS plates.
  13. My Grandfather's first car was a 1917 Case car. I have the original registration for it. Is the car in the photograph a Case? My Uncle is the baby in the image and he was born in 1917.
  14. I bought this trailer made from an old pickup bed with a front axle from a Hudson under it 25 years ago at a neighbors estate dispersal. He was 90 some when he passed. I would like to know what truck it was from? It has a unique back cut in the front of the bed.
  15. I am a member of the Studebaker Drivers Club but not the ASC even though I am only interested in prewar cars. The sdc accepts and welcomes everyone who is interested in studebaker vehicles whether it is a scotsman or a president. The ASC from my experience is only interested in the high end cars of that era and the social status connected with that. Let me explain . I began a lifetime dream of restoring a 1940 commander in 2000. It took me 8 years doing all the mechanical and electrical work myself but farming out the painting and other jobs I did not feel confident about. I meticulously used the parts book and literature to do an accurate job using our families old field car as a guide. There is no local club chapter so I was excited to finally finish the car and attend the 2008 national meet. Never having had a car show judged I attended a workshop on how to have your car judged given by the sdc. They said if there was a question about anything to have your parts book and other materials ready during the judging so I did. One of the judges was the current editor of the ASC review. On approaching my car he immediatley said they didn't have metallic paint in 1940. So I showed him the xeroxed copy of the original paint code from the bottom of the glove box and the dupont 1940 paint chip chart for the light grey metallic paint I had the car painted. he became noticeably angry and then told me I had just bought the car and hadn't restored it after I spent 8 years on it! He and the other judge immediately became very critical and tried to tear everything apart on the car. To take off the 5 points for authenticity they first said my vent windows weren't chromed. I showed them that the windows had the original paint on them and had not been repainted. I was then told by the other judge that it must have been a cheap car. I must point out here I had the original build order for the car and it came with the high end factory option package of radio od etc. They finally settled on docking me for the originality 5 points on the fact that the car has no front spring control link. It never had one . I looked in the parts book with the second judge and he could not find the part number. If you check the 34 to 46 parts book the part number for the link in 1939 is 193723 for 1941 is 512626. There is no number for 1940. They didn't put the link on the 1940 commanders and presidents. It wouldn't be so bad I lost the points for a non authentic part except the one other 1940 commander on the field that day that they gave an almost perfect score didn't have the link and lost no points for not having it. They were very impressed with all the extra chrome and the fact the guy was so wealthy he paid the way of his mechanic who did all the work to the show for the week. At the same show I found lots of friendly people in the sdc but not in the asc. The icing on the cake for me was two other events. At the Ontario meet I was trying to find parts for my current project a light six roadster. There was an older gentleman there who was the only other person with a prewar car. I tried to approach him about parts and he wouldn't even acknowledge me. A very helpful member of the Ontario club approached him for me. My friend came back to report the guy had said "Why should i help him?" My friend seemed surprised at the rudeness. Then a few months later the editor of the ASC review bragged about getting a great haul of 1920's parts. In passing he mentioned there was nothing to do with the light six parts but junk them. This along with the fact the asc review is mostly just a bunch of car show pictures and stories about the editors family and their cars and little technical information or parts for my era cars lead me to drop my membership. I am happily a member of the sdc who accept all classes of things studebaker.
  16. Also since it is just wear on one side before you adjust anything else make sure the wheel bearing on that side is properly adjusted.
  17. I'd try a jumper wire from the battery to the coil next. If it starts then you have problems with your switch or wiring to it.
  18. Is there current at the wire from the ignition to the distributor.
  19. I think it is a sliding door. We have an official US Mail sleigh in our local museum. It has Sliding doors. It was made only a few years before this picture.
  20. According to the 1923 to 25 parts book. The same hub and flag was used on the 1923 models. Changed for 1924.
  21. Sad to hear the Shrock Brothers are retiring. Who will take their place?? They did a great job on the banjo wheel for my 1940 Commander. Thanks guys for your great service to the community.
  22. 123109 is a standard size ring for the standard six after engine serial number er346817. Six are used per piston.
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