Leif Holmberg

Thanks for all replies. This`s what I red before I changed to ATF Dextron 3 on my 1956 convertible.http://www.hydroe.com/Tips_-_Cylinders__amp__Pumps.html Later this summer I will test the thinner type of oil at first,if it not will work properly (fast enough) I probebly have to change the cylinders,if remember right someone here in Sweden made new cylinders. Thanks from Leif in Sweden.

I changed the fluid just becuse don`t want to damage the floor in my car if I got a leakage.I have seen after arond 10-15 years that the tubes are "breating" and left a thin surface of rust on the floor. Why I asked is that I don`t want to do a lot of test job on my car,to change the oil are the easiest to do if I can find an useful oil that are thinner the Dextron 3. Leif in Sweden.

Just remember that the speed was much slower from the first time when I changed the from brake fluid to Dextron 3. Everything is original parts when car was new ,exept the pump gear that was new made 20 years ago,pressure tested the pump after new gears and it was a pressure as showed in the Shop Manual. Leif in Sweden.

I have a 1956 76C,years ago (5-6 years) I changed the brake fluid in the hole system for the top pump and filled up with Dextron 3 ,the same as I have in my Dynaflow and power steering. But the much longer time it takes to have the the top up or down comparing when used brake fluid are frustrating,it takes 3-4 times longer now. Any idee what oil-fluid to use to have it go faster again,I don`t want to use the old type of brake fluid,but how about the newer type of brake fluid (water resisted ?silicon fluid) Leif in Sweden.

No problem to remove it with "gasol" or other way to heat the soldering upp.You can then buy a new emblem from Bob:s ,cut off the skrew off and made a brass plate that looks close to the other ones and and solder it togeter again. An easy job for you to do Hugh,you have probebly to do the same job on your radiator emblem. I have done it 10 times without any problem. Leif in Sweden

It works on the same way on almost all cars.No problem. Leif in Sweden.

Mybe this will help with identifying ? Leif in Sweden https://digital.library.in.gov/Record/BSU_MunHisPhoto-1148

Check out this page . Leif in Sweden. http://theoldmotor.com/?p=144751

Here are more sites with the same picture! Don`t know who is the original? https://www.google.se/search?tbs=sbi:AMhZZisXNEj_1uBBNLQV9liIinvLwid5HfgzPXSutVU0HdZDIoiKhiBwKWOJDwevVTYJy5ia2XGBEuf_1RdMhJlXmMN1wp_1aGrD_1mKCVclWid3sp2dLuFIio7htYfwI_1wTOsLOywnHqib7m7iGBfyIVySbTZ6rtPOwjJ3lVxbJaSo1FX6ikgolRFm5bWzxBYlsnfbgxfKr2HestPwLknNFj5zPMymdIdeQ2kSHPj_1Pza8TBGqrpq-cA1OO-2k2PIB5ylPjTvsmcRRErbFTUdcUKa26QpveouJFjJjDNmlo-q7G9ak01f6oKGyLM47gYiCpE2eF9qcxc9nnle2APLcQcwi_1saPa0MyZxw Leif in Sweden.

Of course you can drop it down,but you probebly need to remove the right side "side apron"? after that removed the 2 staps that hold the tank. If the car are on a "lift" you can probebly remove the tank without removing the side apron if you can turn the tank 180 degrees after removed the 2 straps,and the fuel line .There are 2 different type of tanks on 120-128 models ,1 with the filler tube thru the side apron and one stright up .Be sure to empty the tank at first. Leif in Sweden

Mark. I contacted a Swedish "cooperator"to Nigel in Osterrich and he should contact Nigel. Leif in Sweden.

This clutch looks similar to early 1920s Buick but not right. Anyone who can tell if it`s Buick or anything else? Thanks in advance. Leif in Sweden.

Hugh. Maybe there are some nickel on the outer edgeo on it,but it`s hard to see,but there are no brass,just iron-steel in it.If I was you I should have made it in stainless steel insted?If it`s possible to find such a thin material of stainless steel? Leif in Sweden.

Hugh Here are a drawing of the "wascher".That will be an easy part to made for you! Leif in Sweden.

I would say early to mid 20s.Buick had this type a couple of years but I think they all had a Buick script on it? Leif in Sweden.

Yes they made a 58 model too,5 windows model. Leif in Sweden

Mark. They looks to fit on Std models,Master looks a little bit different.I sold my 1925-25 resto.objekt a couple of week ago to Osterrich I know he needs the left ones in the photo. Maybe you could contakt him Nigel McComb at nigel.mccomb@avl.com Almost everyting (missing some small parts) is packed on the car just to made it easier to transport. Leif in Sweden.

Almost the same question,"where are you located"?How hard is it to tell in the "avatar"where you live???????? Leif in Sweden.

Hugh. Here are the place for this washer.What is more importent is to have those frictions shoe and spring on place just to get the levels to stay in place there you have moved it to. Leif in Sweden.

Check the brassfilter and the tube inside the gas tank at the rear.Dirty brass filter or a hole in the tube inside the gas tank? Leif in Sweden.

I don’t think it will be easy to find a similar puch rod from other cars,just becuse most of the cars are side valve engines.Try to find the part from 1923-1924 4 cyl Buick, can’t belive that will be hard to find. If you don’t find any I can help you,but the shipping will be more costly than the puch rod I think.10 dollar for the rod.

The puch rod are a little bit different on the bottom of the rod on 1923-1924 4 cyl.But the total lenght are the same. close to 17". Leif in Sweden.

1906 - If it`s a model K, it cost $750 and weighed 1,100 pounds. The cheapest Cadillac that year. The most expensive Cadillac that year was the model L two-door Limo 7P for $5,000, weight 3,600 pounds. Leif in Sweden

Probebly different clearens if using cast iron or aluminum, Leif in Sweden

Different carbs on Std,and Master models,add cast numbers that buyer can check by himself Leif in Sweden