RatFink255

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  1. Where is best place to get inner tubes and tires from? I pinched an inner tube swapping the tires from black walls to white walls around. Got done fine it was the second one I pinched it right at the end, dam.
  2. Morgan, The axial housing rotates freely as it had to when I put the rear end back to get the propeller shaft (drive shaft) to line up with the differential. when I re-greased the zirk when it got full some did ooze out the between the axial housing and the bearing housing.
  3. Morgan, Are you talking about right here on the axial tube? There is a grease nipple that is used for greasing but I am not sure if it is brass or not. You can't see the grease nipple as covered with masking tape to keep paint off but it is under tape in second and third picture.
  4. Hugh, I did not put the tires on originally. I think dad did. So now going to swap two of them around so they all match, hence asking the best way to do it.
  5. Got wheels back on the frame then started to put tires on got two on then discovered that apparently when the tires were put on two were put on with white walls the other two were put on with black walls. I am going for the white walls all around so have to take two off and re do as the they mount only one way onto the wheels. I got one off just trying to figure the reinstall with out damaging the stem or tire. Mark Kikta, what was the trick to getting the rim inside the tire as it is a rime that is cut and it is close to the valve stem? Did you have the rim separated or secured and locked then work the tire around? Just saw Mark Shaw's reply about using a rime tool and found some pictures showing it being used good idea. Now to find one.
  6. Jet Glow (an aircraft paint that is fuel resistant) made by Sherwin-Williams. Some of the others used in aviation is ACRY GLO also by Sherwin-Williams. https://www.swaerospace.com/products/exterior/topcoats/jet-glo/jet-glo-information-about https://www.swaerospace.com/products/exterior/topcoats/acry-glo https://www.swaerospace.com/products/exterior/topcoats/acry-glo-hs/acry-glo-hs-information-about Coloring the Sky Jet Glo® Urethane is commonly used as an overall topcoat on high-performance aircraft. The system provides a simple 1:1 mix ratio and is available in thousands of solid colors. Benefits: Proven Durability and color retention Smooth spray application UV resistance High gloss appearance Superior Skydrol® and other hydraulic jet fluid resistance Salt and chemical resistant Corrosion resistant Unlimited color availability
  7. I just remembered the other thing you can try is get some fuel lube. We use it in the aviation industry on almost all fittings in the fuel system. If you try the "O" ring just put it on the plug and install "O" ring then a little bit over the "O" ring. It is some sticky stuff so don't go crazy with it it does not take much.
  8. I am seeing 948960. Try laying sheet of tracing paper over it and press using finger then lightly while still on number go over it with a pencil (not the point but the side). Looking again I see 3948960
  9. Mark, Just curious can you remove the plug? If so you might try: 1) remove plug and put an "O" ring or make a gasket from silicone gasket material so the spring will compress the seal and hopefully stop leak 2) stretch the spring a bit to create more force on the plug 3) put a slightly heavier spring
  10. Norm, The spring wire I used is 1/8" (.125) 3 foot long. The mandrel is 3/4" (.753). I just had a steel rod laying around that fit the bill so I filed a small flat on it and then drilled taped hole for screw and washer to hold the wire in place while I turned the lathe. Use just a big enough washer to hold the wire if you use to big of one it will interfere with the first wind and you will not keep the coils tight side by side. Brice
  11. Norm, I used music wire spring steel (I will get the diameter of the wire and mandrel I used for you tonight when get home from work) then used a the lathe and did them cold. Here is the link that I used to figure how to make them for the most part. I turned the lathe by hand no power so that I could keep control of the wind. Also I did not make a wire holder as he shows I just used the tool holder with a longer square stock (about 100 mm long) then just kept it tight and move slow as I turned the the lathe so that the coils would stay tight to each other. The couple things that you do have to do though is 1) keep the pressure on the lathe head so the wire does not try and unwind before your finished, 2) be sure your square stock is real close to the mandrel and wire as you turn because you get near the end the last bit will try and jump off the square stock. I did come up one half coil short on the spring do to the length wire but being that the wire was slightly bigger dia it seems to have more than enough force to pull the arm back compared to the original springs. Being also that it is modern music wire spring steel and most likely of better quality it should hold up and be a bit stronger spring. Hope that helps you.
  12. I had to make the break return springs as one was broken and the other did not have much spring left in it. The ones I made were just a wee bit thicker in the wire I used but very close they now have very good return of the arm they are attached to.
  13. It is defiantly harder to do by your self than with other people helping. My wife being a good sport and a great support of the project helps with what she could but with her bad knees she was a bit limited, however she has always made the difference in getting things in place. She works the hoist up and down as I call out while I mussel stuff into position. Now just have to start putting the breaks with associated activation rods and parts on then the wheels to get off the jack stands. I will feel much better once it is back on the ground on the wheels not having to worry about knocking it off the jack stands.
  14. Making progress on getting the rear end back in on the frame. I did have to undo the left side shackle to swing it into place.
  15. Mark, Thanks for the shot. Here is what I ended up doing as a back up. Well as you know I have been trying to find a picture of the fuel gauge logo as shown in an above post. I have had no luck so I decided to take a different approach and make my own a bit different that the original. I hand cut it out of vinyl with X-acto knife and a very sharp blade. First cleaned up the gauge housing removed the float by filing of the peen repainting the housing with Jet Glow (an aircraft paint that is fuel resistant) and reassembling it. Here are the before and after.