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About RatFink255

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  1. JBuick, Absolutely beautiful looking cars. Love the touring car. Any chance you could send me or post two or three close up pictures of the horn button and spark lever from couple different angles? I have 1922 4cyl model 35 touring and as you can see from this picture no horn button. I am working on couple ideas to replace the horn switch with modern water proof switch but will need to fabricate a button that at least looks close to what it should be.
  2. Hugh, what did you use to polish up the spark lever? mine looks like yours did before cleaning. so far put red scotch bright to it to get the rough oxidation off. I was thinking of soaking in vinegar but thought i would ask before messing it up. I used vinegar on hand saws with great results but they are steel and this stuff looks to be aluminum. Brice
  3. Hugh, Excellent tip I will be looking into getting couple different sizes as you pointed out. I did get the nut off but there is a key way in there so the suggestion of the split collars is the best idea. Defiantly will need the puller to pull it free from 97 years of sitting in one place. LOL. Brice
  4. Hey Norm, It is going slow but constant. I changed motor mounts today as the two on car were cracked at the ears. Luckily I had two spares. You can see the crack in the ear on motor mount in last picture. I am trying to find a electric horn button that goes in the spark lever. The wire broke of pulling it out of the steering column. Not sure how it is to come out but I figure it may get damaged in the removal process so just thought I would try and find a replacement. Got transmission off and painted housing looks good. Also working on getting steering wheel off so to repair the wooden wheel. That bolt is on good and tight so trying not to damage it as well so being cautious, lol. I had to dissemble the rear end because there was a broken ball thrust disk and the differential housing would not close all the way. Luckily I have an extra rear end for parts and was able to scavenge the needed parts from it. The hard part was reassembling it through the pinion gear hole in differential because I could not get the key way off the axil ends. How is your project going? Brice
  5. I am looking for a place to get new bearings and races for the axil of a 1922 4 cyl Buick model 35. Part numbers are as follows, “ball thrust disk” part# 151276 “Differential bearing adjusting retainer assembly” part# 151275 I have looked at RSC and Bob’s Automobila but did see any bear stuff. Hoping someone here on forms might have any suggestions or even a cross reference number.
  6. These guys are a great shop. The day I was there they were working on a RR Silver Ghost engine. I took the head for my Allis-Chalmers "C" model tractor to them and they did a great job at a good price. The place was recommended to me by a buddy that used to race sprint cars back in the late 70's through the early 90's. They seem to be the go to place for work needing to be done on old stuff as well a high performance stuff.
  7. Here is a link to a literally one of a kind Buick. The link is below. https://macsmotorcitygarage.com/one-of-a-kind-the-1915-buick-twin-six-prototype/#more-64574
  8. Hugh that is beautifully done. Your really going to have a one of a kind example of what that car looked like right off the factory assembly line great job can’t wait to see it completed..
  9. Wow Terry that looks brand spanking new like you got from a parts store. 😳
  10. Well ran into the first OH S#!& moment during the rear end cleaning. The post that holds the brake band on was broken. It appears that it was repaired once and with everything installed everything looked alright. Not until I took the brake bands off to clean and paint did it become obvious as to what had happened. The pictures below shows it better than my typing. It appears to be nice and solid now after the fix but obviously time will tell and I will have to watch it closely to be sure.
  11. Have another question for anyone. Reading in the reference manual for cleaning out the differential and I would assume the gear box as well it says to use kerosene. Would diesel fuel work as well? Would there be an advantage to kerosene over diesel or visa versa? My thinking is that diesel has some oil in it so would act as a lucubrate as well as cleaner and flushing. I am splitting the differential enough to spray inside housing and gears to get the sludge out then close back up and fill with new SAE 250.
  12. Thank you everyone that helps a lot as to what to use. I tried searching on forms last few days but most of the threds were for 1930’s to early 40’s vehicles running much faster and parts probably having tighter tolerances. Brice
  13. Trying to get a list together for modern fluids to can be used in our old Buick's specifically the 4 cylinder. (Mine is the 1922 Model 35 Touring with a 4 cyl). 1) Engine oil type and weight (synthetic or not). 2) radiator (use of anti freeze or not, if so mix 50/50??). 3) Will antifreeze hurt the Moto-Meters? (shouldn't seeing how it is sealed, but just asking). 4) Rear differential Gear Lube type and weight. 5) Bearing grease for wheel bearings, axial, etc. 6) Transmission gearbox fluid. 7) Any others I might have left out.
  14. Thanks for your input Bill.your right it will not be out in the weather like most wartcraft are. I did end up going with the Captain’s varnish. Like Epifanes it has a nice light warm tone to it with clear gloss that does not look plastic.
  15. I have a small drip at the bottom of the differential. It is not bad but just sitting it is couple drops every couple days on floor. I am think of splitting the differential and replacing gasket. Looking at parts book can not find part number for gasket, is there even a gasket used on these? If not thinking of using Make a gasket to try and stop leak. My concern is once car up and running diff fluid gets warmed up the leak will get worse.