Fr. Buick

And it looks like you are missing a hood brace under hood at center rear - more of an anti-rattle than a brace, with a piece that bolts to the cowl and another on the hood. That might help with height at the center rear. Desert Valley should have that as well.

Try replacing all tubber that touches the hood first. Then see if bringing down the winges a bit helps. These things never had great fitment at the factory like we are used to today. FYI, there is a decent hood at Desert Valley Salvage in Casa Grande, Arizona.

I sent 2 contacts in a private message, so look in your forum mailbox.

A 1918 what? Lots of cars, lots of roadsters in 1918...

The solder repair on the back of the switch has me concerned. I think a replacement is in order, or give it to a pro for repair. Be careful not to buy a switch for the larger series units with one or two electric motors. Are you in contact with the Skylark guys? This one is unique to those cars, according to my books: Group 11.558, part number 4647059 is unique to the 54 Skylarks.

You can also get the same knob off the rear speaker switch, assuming it is not after-market.

Yappy Birthday, Mr. Earl!! Glad you had such a nice time.

Best to get a factory service book for your year, and go from there. It is an invaluable investment. Beautiful car, good luck!

Not sure of interchange between series, but if a Special will do you, there is one, and another 53(I don't remember what series) at Dessert Valley Salvage in Arizona.

For sale, parts or whole. Very nice bezels. 50 each complete, please.

Sorry, no match from 54 to 53.

If the same as a 54, I have one that runs. PM me if interested, and I will tty to look it up in my books as well.

"But, Dad, it will be fun!!" But heads up, Caddi parts are more expensive and harder to find.

Me!!

Looks like you got a car!! Pictures, please? I have both your parts, and will send a private message with pics.

Hi ho there, Kermit the frog! And I like the color. That's a collectible year, so maybe getting it to an older local mechanic to just get it running and stopping and a little roadtested might get you money ahead or at least a more easy sell.

Isn't it an inch of mercury for every thousand feet of elevation? Then that sounds like good vacuum.

As I understand it, the ground or sending unit in the tank is often what goes bad. Check that first. As for a new one try ebay, but don't get hung up on a NOS one being tested. That sort of ruins the "new" in NOS, and is beyond the average seller's electrical ability.

Yeah, good luck. 54 AC is tough for Buick, even more rare for Olds. But you've done a Pontiac, so I'll say no more!!

That does seem a little fast, and I would give it a good tuning and slow it down. Gear shift, or more precisely engaging reverse, will be much smoother with new engine and trans mounting pads and thrust pad.

There is a guy on Ebay selling off AC stuff for 54 Olds. If not for sale at the moment, he may well have them for you if you ask.

I'm in SoCal, and have my heat cross over in the intake manifold blocked off with molten aluminum. It's overkill, but a budy had access to a foundty... On the exhaust manifold, I deleted the valve and blocked the holes with pins. I run a Carter WCFB with no problems.

Phoenix was 115 degrees that day, and I was focused on what I needed, including getting the hell out of that heat. It was not a day for window shopping!!

Check out Dessert Valley Salvage, in their Casa Grande location. A couple of Buicks there. I was just there getting a part off a 54 Super. Front seat was still in there but I did not look to see if it was power. And start a post in the for sale and wanted section.

Are you sure your lines are tight? Use a flair-nut wrench and give them a look. If you have a picture, I can compare to some I have that might be correct.