Fr. Buick

Your first trick will be to have the right carb, with the base that accepts the starter switch. Only Buick built them that way.<P>Then you go looking for the switch. It will be a bit different depending on the brand: Carter, Rochester, etc. Since the switch sticks out a bit from the carb, the plastic top readily gets busted off, so the are hard to find.<P>If you find a Carter, I might be able to help...

I've spotted a Buick frame from what looks like mid 20's: parallel front springs, cantilevar rears, etc. ID tag reads 1017388. Can anyone identify for me?<P>I'm looking to use it to put back together a 25 roadster, model 24 with a butchered frame. <P>Grateful for any help!

Sounds like your covers are a bit warped. the outer edges tend to spread outward width-wise and bend upward length-wise as time goes by. Use a good ruler to check, gently bend with your hand while the part is in a vice, and use a new gasket every time. Don't make the nut do the sealing. that's what cork and gasket-seal are for! Happy motoring...

I've used Penzoil 10W30 for 70 of the last 130k miles in my 54 Special with nothing done yet but a valve-job. Seems to work!

I have a '65 LeSabre 2dr to part out, and it has a nice set of rear fender tags with the "400" below. I leave it up to you to know what caries over to your year. (My expertese is a bit fartherback.) Car is all there but for smashed-up front clip. Factor air, pwr brk, pwr windows. Let me know what you want...

Yes, we are hear! I have a 22 roadster, and would be grateful for any contacts... Have not seen much discussion yet on this erra.

I remember one or two '53s at Pearsons Auto Salvage in pearsonville, CA, three hours north of OC on Hwy 395.<P>Good luck!

Hey, Arthu!<P>Good point on the price of gas in Europe. I spent five years in grad school in Belgium without a car and had a good time on public transportation. I walked everywhere, and felt the loss as soon as I got home again. Mind you, Europe has to pay the price for such good systems, and I suppose it comes from the tax that brings gas to $5 per gal. They buy oil from OPEC at the same price as we do. The difference is taxes.<P>The more fundamental difference, though, is way of life: how cities and comunities are built, where we work, how mobile we feel we need to be, and how we like to get around - all deep parts of a culture. To even consider it is like asking a fish how the water tastes.<P>I love big cars and lots of horsies too, but I wonder if the idea of modest protests to the oil industry will go nowhere because what must change is our culture. I like my culture, and I suppose I'm wiling to pay for it - at least for now. Any serious change will have to begin with me before it begins at EXXON!<P>Off to the freeway for my ride home...<P>Doug Cook<BR><P>------------------<BR>

I put one in my '54 Special, and am very happy with it these last few weeks. A few tricks I found to work... I used the "Flame-Thrower" coil, so was able to bypass the stock balast resistor. On the '54, the resistor sits right on the firewall. I simply removed the thin resistor wire in the back of the unit and screwed in a larger-guage wire, hence perfectly stock-looking on the outside and no rearranging of the stock wire loom. also, Pertronix requires two wires coming our from the distributor, so I drilled a second hole in the side in the sidew of the distr.housing to allow for a second stock insulator I had as a spare - those funny black plastic units... now there are two instead of the one stock one.<P>My old 264 is getting a bit tired - 135,000 and never a rebuild yet - but it starts a good bit easier, and has better highway performance.<P>It's worth the hassle.

Yes, the studs and the whole hub can be pressed out of the aluminum drum, as hot-rodders do it al the time to put them on a Ford front-end. But, be careful to support the drum from within,though, as the pressure it takes to do this can crack the drum. PS. If the drums have any meat on them, wana sell?<P>------------------<BR>

If you mean another color below the sweep-spear, no. That came in '55, I believe. But people have told me it was done at times by the dealers - looks good, but not "factory"!. The roof could be a second color though, and the combinations from the factory are listed in the factory shop manual - I'm not sure where in the book, as I don't have mine with me...<P>------------------<BR>

What year are they, and any chance of changing hands at Turlock at the end of Jan?<P>------------------<BR>

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by WF59B:<BR><B>Many people are quick to say "clip it". I am not overly familiar with the '56 front end, but I am putting a 455 in a '59. A few asked me if I was going to subframe it and my thinking is, why go thru the trouble/time/expense to get the same IFS design and lose my 12" finned aluminum drums? I fabricated new motor mount 'horns', notched the frame for oil filter clearance & fab'd a new trans crossmember. All my sheetmetal & structurals will bolt right on & align this way. The only downsides I see are possible header/steering box interference & some time matching up radiator hoses. Of course, '56s don't have the big aluminum drums- is a retro-fit to those at all possible?</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>Sir: I believe it is, and that is the plan on my '54 Special. The original hubs have to be retained and pressed onto the later aluminum brums. Also be sure to have the larger-series backing plates to accomodate the larger size drum, which is 2.5 inch brake surface. Mind you, I have not pulled this off yet, but have ben planning for the eventuality. <P>

I need a quick reference before a nice part up for sale gets away...<P>Is there a difference in the hood ornament between the smaller series (40,60) and the larger series (50,70)? <P>I have a nice origional on my Special, but just found a sweet one for sale off the larger series and want to grab it if I can use it. The parts number book does list different numbers under Group 1.265 for everything but the under-hood clamp and "V". But I have a hard time believing they would craft a whole new unit for the different size cars.<P>Do different numbers always mean different parts? <P>Thanks,<P>Fr. Doug Cook,<BR>BCA # I forgot my card...

I'm trying to find a replacement for the insulation inserted betweent the two pieces of the trunk lid - a tar-impregnated felt with a bit of a waffle-texture to it.<P>I know the tri-year Chevy parts houses sell this stuff pre-cut per application, but does anyone know of where I can but it by the yard? <P>Grateful for any leads...<P>Fr. Doug Cook