old-tank

From Forum FAQ Most of the info in this thread is 8 years old and is obsolete due to change in forum software. The current 'sticky' thread should be eliminated to avoid confusion.

Both the engine and transmission were balanced, but not together since they were assembled at different factories. You do need to mark the earlier dynaflow torque converter if disassembled. The early dynaflow will bolt up one of three ways, but if the drain holes are lined up there is only one possible way. You could balance the torque converter with the engine, but you would have to disassemble to remove from the transmission, assemble, then bolt to flywheel/flexplate, then when balanced reverse the procedure. Willie

You should take a cold shower...

"I love it when a plan comes together.":cool:

Star Tron Solution-----95% Naphtha, 0.5% "Proprietary ingredient"....looks like expensive kerosene. There are very few 'miracle-in-a-bottle' products out there and this is not one of them.

Jim OEM steel will outlast you if put on a car that will lead a sheltered life. Nobody can see your pretty SS lines anyway. SS cannot be double flared with hand tools (the one set I bought had one flare nut installed backwards...no big deal, just cut off the flare, reverse the nut and reflare...NOT!) Willie

Barney Google: wire pull cable, cable pull string, fish tape,etc and you should find what you need. Then you need to explain it to the folks at home depot.

Derek is right: that engine pictured is pretty, but pretty much wrong. Hang on, someone with the correct engine will post. Willie

Thanks, VIII on the web page... Contributions from others are always welcome. Willie

Jaybird That is nice work and a good idea! If you can document the process with pictures and description I will put it on the Low Tech Tips for Mid 50's Buicks page of my website with proper credit of course. I have in the past used copper plumbing (pipe) parts to fabricate with some success. I have one now that needs replacing (groan) and have been putting it off for a few years...I did need the horn a few days ago to remind someone how stupid they were. Willie

All of these sound great and will fit my criteria for beer: my favorites are O-P's (other peoples') and uno mas (one more).

Now I see the difference in the rear quarter length. Does it have the same trunk lid as the 66R?. Frame differences at the rear? Don't lose the trim for that quarter...probably one of a kind. Willie

Check that the draft tube is not plugged. Depending on the type of rings used, it may take a few hundred miles to break in. If it runs good and is quiet, don't worry---yet. Willie

Hopefully your '52 service manual has the same excellent description of the operation of the wcfb carb that my 55 manual has. If seems that the accelerator pump is working properly since it is only used for rapid acceleration below 30 mph. Some things to check: look at the economizer circuit for the transition from idle to slow opening of the throttle plates; the gasket between the bowl section and the lower throttle body section can be installed two ways--->one way is wrong; check the plunger on the accelerator pump to be sure it did not curl back; reset the idle adjustment...if set too rich there can be an off-idle stumble. If using E-10 fuel that may be the problem. That is all that is available where I live and all of my carbureted engines have required up to 1/4 turn richer on the idle screws to run smoothly and most have developed some off-idle stumble. Willie

After you are sure you have your fuel and ignition sorted out, check for an exhaust restriction. Willie

Ben The entire thing is swapped meaning the chunk or pumpkin...just attach to your axle housing. Use your axle shafts and driveshaft. 55 is the latest for this swap with available ratios of 3.6:1, 3.36:1 and 3.41:1...and of course some obscure high ratios used for export and standard transmission. Other years may have different choices. Willie

Bob That was a nice and polite response....i.e. you did not ask questions like WHY(?) do you need this info. 12345678.... Willie

Maybe it should stay locked;). Anyhow we ended the day by sharing a pint of stout. Willie

It was mixed and painted in 1995 with non catalyzed acrylic enamel. A local auto paint supplier matched a sample that brought (no forumula,but I remember the one who mixed it remarked that there was lots of black to make it 'dirty'). Now, acrylic enamel is a rare bird nowadays, being replaced by polyurethanes (catalyzed). Previous paints that I bought were synthetic enamel, slow drying, lots of overspray, but very durable. Willie

Autolite 303----non extended tip resistor plug----looks like AC 44 Autolite 75-----extended tip non resistor plug----looks like AC 44S Autolite 85-----extended tip resistor plug----------looks like AC 44S All of these plugs have been recently used in '55 322's (used for high speed cross country driving) with good results.....and will give 25-30,000 miles of service with the available fuels. Different engines and driving pattern may require a different plug. Willie

Did you say CARS? Whouda thunk it? Is my engine closer to what you want? I had it custom mixed to match my low mileage original. Willie

edited and changed...

Now for all you who still think the BCA is a stuffy and snooty club...this guy is our President!

It is best to drive; second best to fly into Austin, TX where we can arrange limo service in some ol' raggedy 55 or 47 or 64 or 39 or Reatta or.... Willie

FYI: series 40 used 12x2.25 front and 12x1.75 rear series 50 and 60 used 12x2.25 front and rear series 70 used 12x2.5 front and 12x2.25 rear Rockauto while very good source has an error and does not list the correct shoes for the series 40. There are some 12x1.75 shoes on ebay. The best and easiest would be to take the old shoes to a local brake/clutch rebuilder and have new linings installed. Ask for linings with the best stopping efficiency and not necessarily the longest life. Willie