Yellowriv

We have a three owner April 1990 RHD Mariner Blue MX5 with 34,000 miles. Immaculate, with all books and history.

Nice car and a nicer grille than the US version IMHO😁

63 Futura.

I run Evans in my old cars, have done for years. Most of the peripheral benefits of using it have been covered here. My understanding is that its not the water boiling that damages an engine its the steam pockets this creates at much higher temperatures than 212F, as coolant is lost. The much higher boiling point of Evans avoids this issue. I had a real world experience of this with my XK120 Jaguar. As we know, cooling in these is marginal. I had Evans in it and got stuck in traffic before I fitted an auxiliary electric fan (that became a mission in itself because the genny couldn’t cope). XK120s have a dual temp/oil pressure gauge. It got so hot the temp wound into the oil pressure quadrant, but it didn’t boil, so no coolant was lost and the engine didn’t stop and no damage. This was enough to convince me. John

L7?

I agree, and surely you’d take the rocker molds off and paint under them? They’re a classic rust trap.

Gentlemen, thank you for your generous and very knowledgeable assistance. John.

Hi everyone, I’m fascinated by this 1930 Stutz that is listed for sale. Whilst I know a little about the history of the company, I’m interested to know what they are like to own and drive. Looking at the pics for this car, the dash looks uncommonly sparse for a car of this vintage. https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/stutz/m/1937052.html?refer=saturday#&gid=1&pid=19

John, thanks for this thread, stunning car. Although I’m an originality guy and also very mindful of the anti-white whitewall sentiments of some senior forum members/moderators, I can’t help thinking that this is one car that needs either a set of white walls or, to be completely sacriligious and face immediate ban, a set of later wheels and sombrero hubcaps. Seriously though, as we all know, wheels make and break a car and the wheels on this car just don’t do it justice in my view. The tyres look too tall and too black, just as they did when it was new. I’ll see myself out....

Given the cars age and the time its been sitting, I would be concerned about sludge in the sump and oil pump operation. These days, at a minimum, I have a look inside the sump with a camera, if there’s sludge I drop the sump, clean it and check the oil pump operation before using the car. Good luck with your project.

Matt, I find this thread quite confusing. You decide to restore a very rusty Series 61, even the chassis is very pitted and then buy what looks to be a nice and quite restorable series 41 and pull it apart to put on the rusty old Series 61 chassis. The logic of all this escapes me.... John

Thanks Martin, great thread, you are doing a wonderful job, thanks for sharing. Those trim pieces are interesting. Unless its a trick of placement or the camera, they dont look identical, left to right. Cheers John

F&J, I am concerned for your health. Your posts are becoming increasingly incomprehensible. Please either seek medical assistance or at least contact a relative, I think you need assistance. All the best.

I had the four speed Fluid Drive version of this in my '47 Windsor Highlander Coupe. Lovely car spolied by the gearbox, it didn't always change down as you came to a stop either. To my mind it lacked the control of a manual without the convenience of an automatic. It made the car ponderous and slow. I had a 48 Cadillac 60 Special at the same time with the 4 speed Hydramatic and there was no comparison, the Hydramatic was far superior. If the Chrysler had been a manual I would have kept it. John

Unimogjohn is spot on, his is wise council. The only thing I would add, also from bitter experience, is drop the sump and clean out the sludge BEFORE you start it. Also check the oil pump for wear while you're there. Enjoy! John