Yellowriv

Thanks Dodgebrother. If the purchase goes through I will ship by covered transport to Vancouver. Then by 20’ container to Sydney.

Thanks for the help everyone, much appreciated. Craig, thanks. I’m aware of the asbestos issues, I believe I can deal with them. Cheers John.

Hi everyone, I live in Australia. I’ve previously imported cars from the US, four from Long Beach and one from Savannah GA, all for my own use. I’m interested in a car located in Quebec, the owner knows nothing about shipping and, to be fair, probably doesn’t care. My question is should I attempt to ship it from Canada or bring it into the States and ship from, say, New York? Can anyone assist? Many thanks, John.

My pick, pity there were only four and the Le Mans coupe. Failing that one of the “production” Berlinettas or Spiders would suffice...

We have a three owner April 1990 RHD Mariner Blue MX5 with 34,000 miles. Immaculate, with all books and history.

Nice car and a nicer grille than the US version IMHO😁

63 Futura.

I run Evans in my old cars, have done for years. Most of the peripheral benefits of using it have been covered here. My understanding is that its not the water boiling that damages an engine its the steam pockets this creates at much higher temperatures than 212F, as coolant is lost. The much higher boiling point of Evans avoids this issue. I had a real world experience of this with my XK120 Jaguar. As we know, cooling in these is marginal. I had Evans in it and got stuck in traffic before I fitted an auxiliary electric fan (that became a mission in itself because the genny couldn’t cope). XK120s have a dual temp/oil pressure gauge. It got so hot the temp wound into the oil pressure quadrant, but it didn’t boil, so no coolant was lost and the engine didn’t stop and no damage. This was enough to convince me. John

L7?

I agree, and surely you’d take the rocker molds off and paint under them? They’re a classic rust trap.

Gentlemen, thank you for your generous and very knowledgeable assistance. John.

Hi everyone, I’m fascinated by this 1930 Stutz that is listed for sale. Whilst I know a little about the history of the company, I’m interested to know what they are like to own and drive. Looking at the pics for this car, the dash looks uncommonly sparse for a car of this vintage. https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/stutz/m/1937052.html?refer=saturday#&gid=1&pid=19

John, thanks for this thread, stunning car. Although I’m an originality guy and also very mindful of the anti-white whitewall sentiments of some senior forum members/moderators, I can’t help thinking that this is one car that needs either a set of white walls or, to be completely sacriligious and face immediate ban, a set of later wheels and sombrero hubcaps. Seriously though, as we all know, wheels make and break a car and the wheels on this car just don’t do it justice in my view. The tyres look too tall and too black, just as they did when it was new. I’ll see myself out....

Given the cars age and the time its been sitting, I would be concerned about sludge in the sump and oil pump operation. These days, at a minimum, I have a look inside the sump with a camera, if there’s sludge I drop the sump, clean it and check the oil pump operation before using the car. Good luck with your project.

Matt, I find this thread quite confusing. You decide to restore a very rusty Series 61, even the chassis is very pitted and then buy what looks to be a nice and quite restorable series 41 and pull it apart to put on the rusty old Series 61 chassis. The logic of all this escapes me.... John