old-tank

Koala I had a 55 dynaflow that slobbered from the breather. I soldered a piece of brake line to the upper filler tube just above the junction with the lower tube and then attached to the tube from the breather. A later rebuild did not reveal a reason for the overflow, except that the rear pump was inoperative. After the rebuild it did not leak. It is not that hard to remove and replace the breather with the transmission out of the car, but in car service...you are on your own. Willie

THIS might work... Willie

Swap the shafts and see what happens. Another thing to try: unbolt from the rear and rotate 180*...this changed the vibration on mine, but did not eliminate.

You're correct in assuming that the vibration will damage other components (in addition to being aggravating). On mine with the TH400 transmission the tailshaft bushing wore, leading to failure of the gear on the governor, resulting in limping home in L low gear. If the tube itself is bent, they should be able to straighten and balance. I would suspect the U-joint yokes at the rear...you cannot see or measure easily the bends, but it puts things out of kilter enough to cause vibration, especially when power is applied. Willie

My quick research shows the bore of the master cylinder is one (1) inch; the bore of the rear wheel cylinders is one (1) inch and the bore of the front wheel cylinders is one and 1/8 inches. If this matches your parts, great. Now send the master cylinder to be resleeved with stainless steel and that should be a lifetime repair. New master cylinders have a very thin hardened layer on the bore surface, which wears with use and is depleted when honing for a rebuild. Most cylinders can be rebuilt once, more than that you will get limited service. There is a good chance that original cylinders on cars of this era have been rebuilt many times and cannot and should not be rebuilt again.

John That is a long driveshaft but the shaft itself is probably not bent. That driveshaft has a normal universal joint at the front and a constant velocity double Cardan joint ( 2 universal joints joined by a ball and socket joint ) at the rear. From the factory these joints cannot be greased, so they fail. The trouble is all of the universal joints are glued to the yokes. There is no consensus among driveline shops as to the proper way to replace. I have had them pressed out--->bent the yokes; impacted with BFG --->bent the yokes; heated --->bent the yokes. You cannot see the bends, but you can feel the vibration. The only vibration free shafts I have had on my 76 Delta were the original shaft and 2 unmolested original shafts (used). This type of joint is used in many vehicles past and present, including trucks. The next time I have to service the driveshaft I will have one constructed from new parts. If you have a replacement that fits, hopefully it has been serviced and is vibration free. Willie

I assumed that's what they make Spam out of...

The driveshaft differences are specific to the transmission in the car: TH400; TH350. Only the nose is different and that can be swapped.

Jaybird The rear should be the same, but the 56 front will be different. ACC and their resellers should have a set for your car. If not I can get you the contact I talked to in Product Developement Department. Willie

Lots of good suggestions so far.... If everything is working properly and there is only air in the system, the pedal should come up after rapidly pumping 3-4 times. If not suspect the master cylinder. If the pedal does come up after pumping, try bleeding again while pressure is in the system.

Jerry Bend them over after you glue the weatherstrip, but be sure to bend them. If not they may scrape and damage your sill plates...don't ask how I know this. Willie

Latest: ACC now has a pattern and sells carpet for 55 models 43 and 63...and it fits! They are more expensive than their resellers like John at Quality Auto carpet. 773-622-7404. Willie

There was a 79 T/A at a local cruise-in with 6.6 badging...it had an Olds engine, probably a 401.

It should have 12v at the points with the key on. The insulation should be intact.

If the coil and resistor get hot the points should be working and power is getting there. Try a known good coil and if no joy go back to the points. There should be spark at the points when cranking with the ignition on and for sure spark if you ground the arm on the points with a screwdriver. Also check the wire from the points to the terminal on the side of the distributor --- it moves with the vacuum advance and can fracture internally and the insulation can wear causing a short. I only use points/condensors made by Standard or Niehoff. A set from CARS that Buick5563 installed were NDG.:mad: Willie

Yes, really. The speed indications is determined by the numbers on the face and internal calibration in the speedometer. Change the speedometer gear if you change the rear axle ratio or tire size. Probably any speedometer that you can attach to the cable will read the same. As an example I put a speedometer from a 55 Century (120 mph) in a 51 Ford truck (original 80 mph). The odometer and speed indicated were the same, and the truck would still only go 72 mph top speed.:eek:

Missed 2 of the orphans --- one Desoto and one HenryJ . There was nothing noteworthy about them back then and surely not now. Even spell check does not recognize those two names.

Your should not need to change the gear...

If you like synthetic here is one: HERE Last time I looked the Castrol GTX 20w-50 had adequate zinc and it is what I use in all of mine. Or just add a can of STP to what you have for the added zinc. Generaly the lighter oils marked 'energy conseving' will have the lowest zinc. Willie

Mud-- Impressive! Good work and detail inside and out. With a little more practice you will get it perfect and this is where I can help. I happen to have this nasty ol' dynaflow that you can practice on... Willie

Having disassembled and rebuilt some A-5 compressors similar to what is on the 57 Buick, I don't see how you will get all of the old oil removed by flushing. It holds 12 ounces of oil and has an oil pump that circulates oil inside the compressor. It is hard enough to remove the original green stinky and sticky oil from a completely disassembled compressor. If R-12 is not available I would use Freeze12 or hydrocarbon refigerant. Willie

I have some with no paint, some paint, some primer, all paint but I have found no paint UNDER the tags so: some plants may have masked the tag or maybe the paint just did not stick to the aluminum. I like the look of unpainted and too much paint on that tag will obscure the stampings. Willie

You need to do all that plus a little more to replace the axle seals and service the axle bearings. Probably long overdue.

I too ruined a seal on a 322 nailhead that I measured to have a 0.020" interference fit. I paid a machine shop to install another---they chamfered the housing and used a proper seal installing tool with no problem. Willie

A freshly rebuilt nailhead (322) requires 7 quarts to fill...subsequent oil changes require 6 quarts to fill. That means that there is one quart retained in the engine passages, so you never get a complete change and that any additives or solvents will take many changes to be completely removed. Willie