old-tank

I wish I could have been there for the ride or at least to see the smile on your face! 1956 was the second year for the switch pitch dynaflow, but the first year that it worked in Low as well as in Drive. Put it in Low and nail it and be ready to fry the tires! I once picked on a 56 Super with my 55 Century (I knew that the 56 had more power, but also had 400 pounds of extra weight)---I got dusted! Willie

...very high humidity: dewpoint 62*-75*F. We just need to walk outside for a sauna.

Leif Hopefully you or someone else will make this swap in a 56 and document the procedure if it is possible. NTX I have to block off the chrome since the blur of chrome flashes sets off seizures:eek:. The answers to your other questions is no no no no... Willie

Leif The club member's car was a 54 Century, but he tried a 56 column and decided aftermarket was easier. I am not against modifications, but remember you will create 3 new problems for every problem you solve . If it were easy I would have done it a long time ago on my 55 since that slow ratio with power steering is a pain and probably unsafe. Willie

Will Any new metal tank will give good service if you keep it full of fresh gas and store the car indoors. If will probably outlast you. Willie

Bill It will attach to the frame and the stock pitman arm with no issues, but will require major modifications if you want to use the stock steering column. I watched a local club member do the switch and he ended up with an easily modifiable aftermarket column. Willie

It's pretty easy if it has a roll pin as illustrated. Originals have a solid pin that is peaned on both sides and will resist all attempts to remove. But do use a roll pin when replacing. Also be aware that there are two possible ways to install and one is wrong. Pay attention to the pin relation to the gears and the rotor or you could be off by a half of a gear...it will run, but with issues. I have seen 56 lifters chewed up when used on a 55 cam, but has anyone seen damage to the distributor or cam gears (is this fact or theory?). Willie

HERE is a thread over at V8Buick that shows understandable techniques and products by established suppliers...

Good show Jerry! It is always a hoot to kick some Ford and Chevy butt. Make room is the house for those big ol' trophies --- there are more to come! Willie

The July 2011 Bugle article "Updating the Brakes on a 1957 Buick" is the worst I have ever seen! It is incomplete and confusing: How does it work? How is it attached to rest of the system? How is it powered? (vacuum, air, electric) The part number does not show on a Google search (only 'Haldex' which makes brake parts for trucks). The 'booster' is unnecessary by their own admission since there was no improvement until the linings were replaced (which would have fixed it in the first place). It is erroneous: You never use the 'long' linings on all four wheels! There is a reason for short linings if you understand how the bendix system works. The short lining is installed to the front on each axle; since it is shorter and usually has a different friction material it will cause the assembly to rotate and apply more pressure to the longer rear shoe increasing braking effectiveness over and above what is obtained from just hydraulic pressure on the shoes. "These cars won't stop properly utilizing new semi-metallic linings-they are just too heavy" Wrong! Semi-metallic has little to do with friction (mostly wear). It is the basic friction properties of the linings that determine how they perform. Some linings like Raybestos will give poor stopping performance like these guys experienced; NOS or NORS linings or specified linings from a brake/clutch rebuilder will give normal stopping performance. These cars will stop properly with a stock system. If anyone knows Jesse Patton or is buddies Vern, Dave and Roger, point them to the forums where we could have saved them a lot of trouble and expense. And I wish there was a 'delete' button to hit for the Bugle article.... Willie

Just a few more questions and observations... "May contain up to 10% Ethanol" (or something like that)...but how much is it? Is it the ethanol or is the basic gas too volatile? For many years winterized gas (before ethanol) behaved similarly if used on hot days. Last year, my 97 Ford F150 displayed a check engine light. Scan revealed lean both banks, a small vacuum leak was found and corrected --- no joy; an additive (BG 44K) was tried --- no joy. An Internet search showed an instance where excess ethanol in the gas could cause this. I did an empirical test on the fuel in the truck and compared to some stored gas and it seemed that the truck had about 30% ethanol. By now it was nearly empty, and after refueling has been OK. During a recent 2 week period I filled my 55 about 20 times: vapor lock=I anticipated and activated the electric pump before it could happen carb boiling=not every time...maybe after 3 lunch stops hesitation=not always pinging=at least 3 tanks (and these tanks gave the best mileage) fuel gauge reading higher than actual=3 tanks (after 292 miles the gauge was reading 1/4 tank where I usually fill up and expected to put in 15-16 gallons...it took 19 gallons:eek:) does the fuel sender float ride higher in E-10? fuel brands=BP and Citgo gave the best mileage and least side effects; Valero was the worst. Willie

Got home 2 days ago. 4664 miles @ 15.6 mpg. Observations: gas went up 20 cents a gallon on the return trip roads around Scranton, PA were so rough that the rear shocks were becoming less effective I-10 was closed (6 lanes) in Houston making a 60 mile detour necessary fuel is terrible---lots of pinging, hesitation, vapor lock, carburetor boiling Things to fix: service---done wash---tomorrow heater core generator---done ( put in some used brushes ) passenger side door latch (something came loose and it cannot be opened from the outside) rear wheel bearing (I had been feeling some intermittent drivetrain roughness for most of the trip...now it is constant and there is a clicking at the left rear wheel) ...everything else will wait for cooler weather Willie

Has the EPA finally killed my cars? Not yet but they are trying! I have fought vapor lock for years in my 55, but with an electric fuel pump near the tank it is manageable. I have a toggle switch that is flipped in anticipation of a vapor lock situation such as sitting in traffic or after refueling. Your problem is probably not vapor lock, but volatile gas boiling and this year is the first time I have experienced that also. It is not as bad as yours, since there is no stalling. After a 10 minute stop there is excessive cranking required to start and when it does there is roughness and black smoke from the exhaust and the strong smell of gas from the under the hood. Inspection reveals gas dripping from the throttle shafts. A carb spacer cannot be used in my case since the air cleaner is already contacting the under hood mat. The other suggested solutions for vapor lock should also work to solve gas boiling in the carburetor (since the root cause is excessive volatility of the fuel), but they are all useless! I have tried them: Additives (diesel, kerosene, Marvel, stabil)=useless Fuel line insulation=usless (at least between the fuel pump and carburetor) Premium fuel=useless (probably will make it worse since ethanol increases octane and premium fuels will most likely have more) In addition to vapor lock and boiling fuel all of my carbureted cars have aggravating hesitation, my lawn/garden equipment runs poorly... Drive 'em while you can since it will only get worse. Modern cars are not affected, we are the minority, it isn't going to get any better... Willie

Good work, Ben. Another way to treat the rust bleeding through the paint is to use a mild phosphoric acid product such as Sanivac or Ospho. Get a couple of Mexican or Indian blankets and you are all set. Willie

Remove the seat back from the lower cushion.

Jim and others If you send it you will have to put a ORM-D label ("Other Regulated Materials-Domestic.") on it and ship ground only since priority mail and flat rate are usually by air. This also means a possible trip to the post office standing in line behind the fat lady(?) in flip-flops and the screaming kids. A good idea but a real pain. As to the voting I never used cooking control...I used multiple computers with multiple operating systems with multiple browsers (don't ask, it is another disease) that will still show one IP-address. Willie

Not home yet. Today was 540 miles from Salem VA to Birmingham AL. With 840 to go it is one more night on the road...probably in Louisiana. No issues other than feed the beast. Ok, the only time I could not fix it within a few hours was the time I broke an axle...and I still don't carry axles! Bob, remind me later to come up with a list...maybe when you are ready to hit the road. Willie

See post #7...it has all you need. Willie

Party's over...both the BCA show and the cool vacation. We left Rockport, ME and ended up in Scranton, PA ~500 miles and still ~ 15mpg. Today only 430 miles due to the electrical system that decided to stop charging 10 miles after we left the hotel. Pulled into a rest area and changed the voltage regulator --- no joy --- and was about to change the generator when it started raining. So we drove 250 miles in the rain before I could change it. Just as I got my tools out it started to rain, but this time I had to proceed since the car would not start. (Remember you need a fully functioning charging system to start a Buick) Anyhow that did the trick, but lost 60 miles of driving. A look at the defective generator showed that the brushes were completely worn after less than 10K on a total rebuild. I guess the currently produced brushes are not as good as the originals since I used to drive tens of thousands of miles without ever wearing out a set...usually the generator failed for some other reason. Are we having fun yet? Willie

(Pretty good typing on and ipad) All of the individuals of "The Committee" are very capable and have our best interest in mind. All have DAY JOBS and are not compensated for the time they donate to OUR club. "The Committee" is not some secretive X-files or KGB group---->spooky~~ Bill is on vacation now...in Maine...by the water and does not need this *&^%^$# now. I'm on vacation too and should be updating the Texas Road Warriors thread. So jump in and help if you have something constructive to offer. Willie

Always remember that there was a reason that these cars were parked in the first place: usually major components like engine, transmission, rear end, etc. Now the fun begins finding the issue :eek: Willie

A spline seal is not used on 57's, so the kit will have all you need. Willie

It was cooked...in the can in a large retort (pressure cooker) just like dog food. I do not recommend feeding to dogs.

Jerry Is the needle moving at all? Or just discharge and neutral. If it is not moving at all, it would be a defective gauge (rare). Willie

Still no tea...