old-tank

Bill Contact Eddie Lail in Product Development at Steele Rubber to see if they would be interested producing your weatherstrips. They did a few items for me that is now available to all 55 owners...that is how new products are created. Willie

Scott I know we have been through this before, but your problems may be related to the available fuel (ethanol). Also my advice (that I don't always follow) is to be sure that your ignition system has no issues. When I put the 264 nailhead in my 51 F-1 I used the spark plugs that were in it --- Bosch platinum, right number and they looked new. Anyhow when hot it would idle roughly and was very hard to start. Finally after tearing the carb apart 3 times I checked one of the plugs on a lawn mower where it had a very thin barely perceptible spark...I then tried a used AC44 and the spark was splat,splat,splat....new plugs and it runs perfectly. Also I noticed that your carb is probably a Rochester 4gc. One of our local chapter members had an engine fire in his 62 after one of the bowl plugs popped out (another effect of ethanol on the original cement). Also the current gas if left to dry in the carb leaves a white powdery residue. The 4gc on one of my 55's did not like that residue...I could clean it and it would run perfectly until the next time it dried out. That 4gc is in a box...the only carb that ever defeated me! Willie

You need a new starter relay. See my website: Low tech tips then Relays. This may not solve all of your problems, but will fix this one. Willie

5607 front pinion R 1507 EL rear pinion KC 11445 Y differential Line up your parts first (these are all BCA or Bower numbers)..try to find NOS or NORS since some of the current stuff is Pacific Rim. My website details a driveshaft/pinion removal tool that is available for loan. Start tearing it apart and ask your specific questions when you get stuck. Willie

I have two 55 Centurys...model 63 (4dr hardtop)...factory air in both. I have never seen a split window. I was going to offer help on the factory air, but he is going to modify it anyhow. Willie

Jim Be sure you have a vented gas cap. Also check the wire from the points to the junction on the distributor body. Check the points dwell at all rpm. Drive (as a test) with the vacuum advance disconnected. Willie

4 door sedan or hardtop??

Bastrop fire in Texas burns 600 homes, map Wildfire Today This the best location link...unfortunately Jerry's place in the middle of it... Willie

It's gonna bite you...

That would be classified as a body mount. Bob' Automobilia lists a few Search - body mount . You can also find them from Steele and Metro rubber or make your own from a section of truck tire sidewall or cut pieces out of an old radiator hose and stack. Willie

Really looking good. Somebody must have put in a power antenna before because that is how you do it...not after you put on the fender (don't ask how I know this...). I also noticed the absolutely correct voltage regulator with the screws in the corners. Details, details, details...it should be ready in 2 weeks or less since it will literally fall together at this point. Willie

Nice puddle of tranny fluid or somebody has blood in their urine...

All of those 54's parked at motels...in the daytime...

Leaks?:eek:...must be a Buick...

Great video Sid...her is anotherFor all Toyota Prius owner (or soon to be owners) - YouTube

Keep checking the 'radiator woes' thread. Is it actually overheating as in boiling over? If not and it is just the temperature gauge showing hot be advised that those old gauges will show hot at just 200°. It will need to get much hotter to boil over if you have a working pressure cap. If available check the engine and radiator temperature with an infrared thermometer. Willie

If the radiator was not leaking when delivered to the radiator shop, and if the shop did not at least take off the top tank and attempt to rod it, it may not be shot. I have three 55's that are using original radiators. 20 years ago I took one with overheating problems to a radiator shop and after a simple visual inspection they determined that I needed a new core for $500. I took it to another shop that quoted a core for $250 and left it. They called 2 hours later and said it was ready --- it was sound and all it needed was to be rodded ($75) --- I just drove that same car 4664 miles (75,000 miles since repair) without problems with that radiator (the heater did leak ). In the meantime my 76 Olds has had 3 new cores or radiators installed...it seems that the replacement cores or radiators are junk! Willie

LINK to my web site. This for a 1955, and I think 1954 is the same since the part numbers in the factory manual did not change in 1955. Willie

The Fish Carburetor 1955 Buick Century M-1 as raced by Glenn “Fireball” Roberts was a 66R 2 door hardtop...

Spooner Momentarily jump the BAT and GEN leads on regulator is what the books say. However I have never needed to do this with new or used regulators or generators. I have tried it a few times hoping it would solve a charging problem and it never did. I ran across your starting problem over at AACA-general...this will not solve the starting problem. You have a defective generator or starter relay. If the generator worked before, clean the brushes and commutator.. you might get lucky. Take apart the starter relay and file the points and smack the rivets with a center punch (better yet get a new one from Bob's Automobilia). The service manual has a very good description of how these systems work. Willie

Buick nailhead fan clutch 62-66 401-425 Riviera Electra | eBay

Maybe Middleton Brewing is why....

Year, model, engine?

85121 CARQUEST 51121 WIX P25 BALDWIN CH106PL FRAM HAF-LF206 HASTINGS These are some of the filters I have used on my 55 Willie

The Buick Bugle is Copyrighted Material and cannot be used like this without permission. We appreciate your efforts, but you should probably remove it from your server to avoid trouble. Willie