old-tank

Use the forum search feature (Buick- General ... "texas road warriors") to find some of our previous (mis)adventures. It all started 18 years ago: (http://forums.aaca.org/topic/71039-on-the-way-to-batavia/?hl=batavia). This should serve as fair warning to anybody in our way north of Texas and an invitation to other drivers from Texas to join the fun. There are no caravans, schedules or other requirements; just a bunch of independent contractors that sometimes end up at the same place. Also, participants should save up for gas and oil (we're driving Buicks after all) and stock up on sliced Barbeque Brisket and Fajitas...if gas prices go up any more consider baloney sandwiches. We will leave 7-8 in our 1955 model 63. A 5 day trip averaging 400+ miles a day. Our ranks have dwindled (hope I am not a lone ranger) but we are a dedicated force and always thirsty (beer). Willie

Do the test as above. This bypasses the relay and lets you know whether it's a starter or solenoid.

Those horrid tires are out of balance again! Called Diamondback again and explained the two years of aggravation and excessive expense and I still have junk. This time they sent a new set constructed in Milestar tires. (I was surprised that there was no argument or excuses this time --- maybe there is a realization that those Nexen tires are junk) Not near as flimsy and the handling and balance is acceptable. We will see after a 5,000 mile workout next week.

Engine and transmission mounts if defective will transmit and enhance minor vibration. If the carburetor leans out at a certain RPM there will be perceived vibration.

As a test apply 12volts to the black wire that goes to the solenoid...key on in park.

Low voltage condition and the starter relay is the usual culprit

Radials or bias? Date code?

One more thing: get a service manual.

If THIS is the fluid in the transmission, it will be fine (but probably overkill).

Two carburetors that I used on a Buick 264, one is the Stromberg the other is a Carter. Also a picture of the manifold showing the location for the heat pipe to the choke.

The engine is a Buick, so the carb should have a vacuum start switch on the back side if originally on that engine.

With prolonged disuse ,some of my dynaflow cars the torque converter will leak back into the pan over filling it and it will leak out of every orifice.

See my TIRE RANT They make beautiful tires, but the DB 1 line are junk. Call and see if you can get a deal on the Auburn line or it they will make your tires on a good tire like Toyo.

2012 Concord, NC...it was hotter!

Went for a test drive / stress drive. Outside temperature 105° Engine temperature 200 to 210° Factory air conditioner only drops the temperature 20° so it was a little uncomfortable at 105° outside. All that is tolerable as long as I don't get stuck in traffic. If I'm going to drive this thing to Spokane I have to drive through temperatures like that for at least the first day. Hopefully temperatures will moderate before I leave otherwise I won't be driving that car or I won't be going at all.

Whichever gauge you use (replaced or repaired stock gauge or hang under dash gauge with real numbers), test it for accuracy in some progressively hot water. The stock gauges in all of my 55's are pegged out HOT at only 200*... of course it is also pegged at 280* when it is boiling over. With an11 pound cap mine can go to 240 before boiling, giving me time to prevent.

That is probably the wrong carburetor for a 55 since the heat tube connection to the choke housing should be at the back or side. You have apparently bypassed the fuel pump at the right front of the car and used rubber lines. Any fuel line on top of the engine should be steel. When not if those rubber lines failed near the distributor you will have a Krispy critter. Also don't depend on spring clamps on a pressurized line.

Replace the problematic lifter and leave the others alone. You will make them worse since you cannot reassemble them to match the original wear pattern. Do not use 56 lifters unless you use 56 matching pushrods. 55 lifters are more reasonable than in the past....I may have some serviceable 55 lifters (free).

57-60 Buick

My interchange shows 57-60 flywheel and disc interchange...could not fine pressure plate (maybe used different nomenclature back then). Try the above link or local clutch/brake rebuilder for sure on the disc and pressure plate. When I put the 264 nailhead in my 51 F-1 truck, I used a Buick flywheel and Ford pressure plate (drilled the flywheel) and disc mated to a Ford tranny. If you find a flywheel that will fit remember that engine is externally balanced and the balance would need to matched to the old flywheel.

Better close to home...

Thanks. Good explanation as usual. After switching to radials the steering would not return to center after going around the corner. Maximum positive caster corrected that.

Now I'm leaning toward combustion chamber deposits.

John, do you ever get that car out on the highway for a couple of hundred miles running 65 to 75 mph? Your trips on the "Raise your hand..." thread seem to be slow and short.

Quit laughing at me Ben!