old-tank

HUGE!...even with a proper tool. Unless the plugs are leaking you will not fix the problem with all that work and aggravation.

Details, more details...

The recesses are painted because it is hard to get chrome there without and electrode in each recess.

It's the carb this time. When it is cold and on fast idle with jets above the throttle plate are feeding the system and it runs fine. After it warms up the Jets below the throttle plate are feeding... One side is stopped up. That's why you're only running on four cylinders. Study the idle circuit in your shop manual and you'll probably find one of the idle tubes with a plug in it.

Shiny chrome on the front with argent paint on the backside and in the recesses.

Drive it for a while to give the shoes a chance to seat.

When you say patch, do you mean cut the rough stuff out and weld in sheet metal, or do you mean patch with something else? This is our first car renovation, so we aren't really sure what is the best choice - all tips are appreciated! We hadn't gotten a good chance to clean it yet, but the places we cleaned some more holes showed up. It is still pretty strong in some places, but weak in others. Once we get it repaired, we were thinking about covering the floor with like a truck bed liner, just to give it some more strength. If anyone has done that and has thoughts, send them our way. I don't have a welder and I am not a welder. 40 years ago on mine that was worse than yours I coated with Por 15 (or equivalent) on both sides and applied fiberglass fabric, some mat and some green fibered bondo. No new deterioration... On a floor nobody knows (until now).

All new exhaust systems will have more bark until the inside is coated.

If the bore is "off-axis" the pin would be stuck in the piston out of the box. The 401 uses what is called a press fit pin, but most machine shops heat the small end to expand it to fit the pin. HERE Connecting rods can be bent if pressed or if excessive heat was incorrectly applied. My mentor made me a slow rebuilder: install the rings on the piston/connecting rod assembly, soak in hot oil for 10 minutes, put the next assembly in the hot oil while installing first one in the engine.

Some grease separates worse than others. I use Valvoline synthetic. Ball bearings need a preload as outlined in the service manual. My method to check for front wheel bearing issues: ride the brakes and it will go away (sometimes).

If you have the front clip off then install together...otherwise separately.

That↑↑↑ If the pin was free in the piston out of the box and free with the piston installed, then a bent con rod will bind. Otherwise operator error at the machine shop or installer. Check or replace con rod

Spy balloons back then?

On my 55 glass pack sounded good with little drone. Martin Johnson exhaust has supplied me with NORS (stock) mufflers that fit period.

Ken's rebuild specs on my server: HERE

If you're using the original wires they will have a set and usually land in the right place on the switch.

There you go again. Sad!

That is a problem, but maybe not the problem.

I know Matt does not confrontations, but I would have some fun with him: So, what is your definition of a grown up car? Is the car I brought today a grown up car? (and every time you bring a car) Do you want to contribute to my grown up car? On the other hand after a 7 year restoraton of my convertible where I did it all myself a guy says that if he were rich he could have a car like that. I told him that if he were not so cheap and lazy he could have a car like that. I bought him a beer and showed him pictures of the restoration. Then over a few years I guided him through his project..we are still good friends.

That stuff will work... for awhile. After a few years it will harden and detach leaving a mess to carefully sand off of both surfaces. The black version is a little better.

Rebuild it or have it rebuilt. When (not if) the diaphragm goes bad it will pull engine oil into the intake.

Hi Lance I just applied 12 volts to the big bolt on the solenoid and connected to the small terminal with a remote starter switch. The ignition key in the car was on off. That is why I am thinking this is a mechanical issue, but I am not 100% sure anymore. I just need to figure it out, so I can get the car to the upholstery shop for the new convertible top. Remove the 10 gauge black wire from the starter relay and then apply 12v+ to that wire.

Most bellhousings are only structurally bolted to the engine at the top half to 2/3...the lower part serves as a dust cover and to direct leaks. Weld it and don't look back.

That would be most likely, with the contacts in the solenoid sticking due to a low voltage condition (weak battery, defective starter relay). If that was one of your 55's, I would tell you to apply 12volts+ to the black 10gauge wire at the starter relay (goes down to the solenoid) and see if it behaves. Check back or post a wiring diagram.