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rmartens

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  1. There's no wiring per se at the rag joint, but in my case there are two copper straps, one that attaches to the larger centering post on the steering box side (12 o'clock in my photo) and one attached to the bolt at the 9 0'clock position that connects to the steering shaft side. See the indentation at about the 5 o'clock position on the 9 o'clock hole. I suspect at one point that was one continuous strip to provide a ground to the steering shaft. See second image--of rotated 90 degrees clockwise it's a close match for mine. I suspect my two pieces were once one, although until I removed the steering box the horn worked so they must have been in contact with each other somehow. I guess I'm looking for this copper grounding strap. My alternate idea is a short wire with an eye at each end to connect one side of the joint to the other. Thanks, Rick
  2. After too many years on the bench, I sent out my steering gear box and pump out to Lares via Rock Auto for rebuilding. Tried to follow the indentations in the rag joint to put everything back together properly including the copper contacts, but when I tested for continuity between steering box and the shaft in the steering column on the upstream side of the rag joint, I get nothing. Shouldn't I have continuity--isn't that the point of the copper contacts? Any pictures of what it should look like? Thanks, Rick
  3. I wish I had my info handy--but I believe a good tight fit on my '56 Century was found using a filter designed for a mid-80's Chevy S-10. Seals without needing additional gasketing.
  4. Turning the cable by hand might not get the needle to move. I chuck the end of the cable in a cordless drill to get enough rpm to get the speedo moving.
  5. I've done it on my '56 Century. Did not have to remove the fender. I don't recall it being that big of a deal. Had a radiator shop replace the core for me.
  6. Couldn't think of a better place to ask for assistance. I have a time stamp just like this one--except the plunger is stuck in the down position. The plunger shaft is brass, the housing cast iron. I've tried PB blaster and as much prying and hammering with a rubber mallet as I dare but to no avail. It's been this way for 30 years or more. Any recommendations? Heat & Cold? I've taken the clock works out but can't get the die out with the plunger in the down position, and the die most likely has the name of the Hawaiian sugar mill where it was last used.
  7. Living on the West Coast it was simply a knit hat or ski hat. My Canadian relatives called it a toque. But moving here to the East Coast (NC) I got real confused when people called them tobbogans. To me that's a 6' snow sled.
  8. I had the same challenge some 20 years ago. I bought grade 8 bolts of the larger diameter and thread, then took them to the local vocational school where they cut off the heads and turned down the narrower diameter and thread pitch needed. Said the hardened bolts needed 3 passes each on the thread cutting lathe. They worked wonderfully! I've since moved back to the original wheels and hubcaps.
  9. Sorry I wasn't more clear--Fusick wants to buy one they can keep so they can develop the kit at their convenience. I took a vacation day today and visited the bearing store in Raleigh for the seals and the rubber store for the O-rings and felt seal. Some of the rings looked a little smaller in the cross section than the originals, and they had to trim and reglue one of the larger rings to fit. The cost of the O-rings and felt seal was less than $4. Not sure how much the seals were, will pick them up on Tuesday.
  10. I bought a test gauge at the farm store, and found that the threads on a flexible grease gun hose were exactly what I needed to connect the gauge to the various ports on my '56 Dynaflow. On a somewhat related note, if you ever need to check pressure with the transmission out of the car, I used some thick rubber and a couple of hose clamps to attach my largest socket to the center of the torque convertor. Then I attached an old 1/3 hp corded drill to spin the unit up for pressure testing.
  11. Finally decided it's time to get this project done, but no one seems to have a gasket and seal kit. Spent some time on the phone with Terrance at Fusick--says the 56 Buick box was a one-year only unit, and they have not yet developed a kit for us. (They will PAY $100 and shipping for a unit they can tear down and use to create a kit.) Anyhow--are there any other suppliers for a kit?
  12. I pulled the seals at the pitman shaft and the input shaft. The pitman shaft seal carries the following identifying info: EP 46 5683373 The input shaft seal reads: GP 20892 09 5682846 Are all numbers significant, or just one set--maybe the ones starting with 56? If I match those numbers, are all the appropriate dimensions going to be correct for this application? Thanks,
  13. I too was expecting to see gaskets in those two places--but in both cases it was a large o-ring.
  14. Jerry: Do you have a part number for the kit from CARS? I'm not having much luck searching their site. My steering box leaks more than my Dynaflow, but otherwise works fine. I disassembled it a couple of days ago--it's pretty straightforward, but I'm planning on leaving the control valve intact and am not planning on tearing into the piston or ball nut--just replacing the assorted o-rings, and the seals at the pitman shaft and input shaft. So far it looks like 3 large o-rings, 2 medium sized o-rings for the elbow on the control linkage, and two small o-rings between the control valve and main body. Plus the seals and washers. Thanks for any direction you can provide. Rick
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