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About My55buick

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  1. I don't think they I don't think they went to the BOP bellhousing until the turbo hydramatic came out the 350 and 400, I know that my Buick has a different bellhousing from any other engine, even the nailheads had two different bellhousing I can't speak for other models. The other problem is that Buick until I believe 1960 use a torque tube rear end so now you have to engineer a newer transmission to accept the torque tube with a torque ball pivot, otherwise you have to redesign the rear suspension using a newer rear end upper control arms and have a custom driveshaft made. The only way something like that could work is to use some kind of transmission adapter, then take the tail shaft off of say long tail 400 and then make a plate to add the end of the dynaflow where the torque ball and shaft sit. But without some real metal working equipment I don't think it's possible.
  2. I'm looking to swap a 57 or newer into a 55. I know you can use a 56 if you use the 56 cross member and 55 tailshaft. That's actually in the Hollander manual.
  3. I've been on multiple sites, and haven't been able to find any credible info. Everyone thinks but isn't sure. A long time ago someone told me you can swap the bellhousing and torque converter from a later Dynaflow on to an earlier one, and also the other way around. Is there any fact to this? I bought 2 Hollander manuals to see if I can compare cases and tail shafts but I didn't see a section for it. Let me know what you guys think.
  4. I've never tried the clamp trick. Are you saying I should try clamping the rubber hoses and then bleed just 1 wheel at a time? The brake pedal is soft with the car off...
  5. My car is a treadle vac set up. I just can't remember if it's the Moraine or Bendix version. I didn't bench bleed only because I couldn't figure out a safe way to hold it in a vice. So I pedal bled the system without going all the way to the floor and once all the wheels had steady fluid, I did the trick where you loosen the brake line at the master and then push the pedal down and then while it's down tighten it back up. I did it repeatedly but go no bubbles from the master cylinder. So I assume there is no air. I was thinking of trying to make a fitting for the reservoir and use my pressure bleeder to try and see if there is any air that's bound somewhere, but I really think the system has been thoroughly bled.
  6. Wow Bob I hope I didn't pay $750 to have my master cylinder destroyed. How difficult is it to take just the hydraulic portion of the treadle vac off to check?
  7. HI everyone, Im new to the forum. I have a 55 Buick Special that I am trying to get back on the road after 45 years. Ive already done the basics, getting the gas tank boiled, rebuilding the carb, rebuilding the fuel pump, got the radiator and heater cores boiled, belts, hoses, and generator rebuild (why the car was parked in 1973). Now I am working on getting the brakes fixed so I can take it for a ride. I grew up working on 60-80s cars and even went to tech school to be a mechanic, so I have a pretty decent knowledge of what to do but this car is really throwing me for a loop. Here is everything I have done as of now. I flushed all the brake lines with fresh fluid before installing new brake hoses, wheel cylinders, and shoes. I sent out the treadle vac to Apple Hydraulics who have rebuilt a few master cylinders for me in the past. They said they have done many Treadle Vacs and it shouldn't be a problem, so I sent it in. They sleeved the master, replaced the piston and shaft, and rebuilt the booster portion of the Treadlevac. I got it back, installed it in the car, and bled the system. I ran 3 bottles of Dot 3 through the system and have no air I can see. I adjusted the shoes so when you spin the wheels you feel just enough rub that the wheel spins once or twice and stops. My brake pedal still goes almost to the limit and barely stops the car. Being frustrated I decided to look in my Buick Service manual and I found out that I am supposed to set the brake pedal with 3/4 of an inch of pre-load on the master, I didnt know that I am used to newer cars where you want no pre-load. I went back under and adjusted the brake pedal, then bled the system again and now the brakes grab at a slightly higher pedal height but the brake pedal is still almost on the floor to get any response. What am I missing? I wanted to try posting here because every other forum I have tried just keeps trying to talk me into swapping to a manual master cylinder under the floor or power brakes on the fire wall and I am really trying to preserve originality.