pmhowe

I'm not sure if this is a good fit for this thread as it is slightly more modern than most of the others, so remove it if it is doesn't fit. The picture was taken in the mid 1990s. The car is a 1963 Morgan Plus 4. The tunnel is the Gilman Tunnel, blasted out of rock in the 1920s for a railroad spur line built for logging (Santa Fe Northwestern Railroad). It is near the town of Jemez Springs, New Mexico. The river shown in the next picture is the Guadalupe River and is just to the right of the car as viewed. Phil

I had a similar problem with a Jaguar XK 120. The car had a brass screen filter at the gs tank, where the line to the carburetor attaches. The filter had a coating of a shellac-like material. Compressed air cleared it enough to run properly. However, for reliability, I had to drain the gas and clean filter and tank. Phil

My first car was a 1928 Hudson Super Six. It had what I believe is called an "F head" engine: One set of valves were overhead. The valve cover had oil pots that were to be filled with oil each day. Ran fine. Nice car. Another interesting feature was the clutch, which was a single plate, with cork inserts, running in oil. Phil

My experience was very similar to Dave Henderson's. I had a 120 roadster that I paid $150 for, a 120 roadster parts car given to me, an XK 140 drophead coupe that I put nearly a 100,000 miles on, a Mk IX that I paid $800 for and enjoyed thoroughly although it gobbled a quart of oil with every tank of gas, a Mark 2 sedan that was a delight to drive, and a few other parts cars that I got for free. My favorite was the XK140, followed by the Mark IX.

This picture was taken on 11/13/20. It was clearly near the end of the fall season here, but the maples still showed some color. Attached also is a picture of the same location taken the day after Thanksgiving.

I spent some time doing some adjustments to my 1935 Cadillac 355D today. Small things: adjusting the throttle linkage (the idle was too high), giving her a grease job, adjusting tire pressures, and partially closing the hood side louvers, as it is turning cool. Then, of course, I took her out for a ride. I don't have the car fully sorted to my satisfaction, but I was delighted with the way she ran. At this stage in our life together, her engine seems strong and solid, her semi-automatic choke works the way it should, the power assisted mechanical brakes work almost like those of a modern (say 1970s) car and the steering tracks as if it were on rails. Her transmission is showing some age; it slips out of second on steep hills, but I have learned to anticipate that. Maybe someday that will be fixed. It was a crisp late fall day, and I loved the day and the car loved it also. It ran flawlessly. I enjoyed driving it, and enjoyed the smiles and waves of others who were obviously pleased to see it. (I was about to say "old girl" but realized she is only a few years my senior). Gee, I love pre-war cars. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I enjoy mine. Phil

So, I wonder, why did it get that way? Someone failed to ever put a drop of oil under the rotor? Phil

What great pictures! Thank you. P

Me too! Of course, I am 79 and about to turn 80, but those boyish good looks are really a problem! I enjoy your posts. Thanks for the laugh, and good luck with old cars. Mine is 1935 - moderately old, dignified, and short of boyish good looks. Phil

How neat! I wish I could have been there. Wish I were there for the lobster rolls, too! Thank you for posting. Phil

My car is a 1935 Cadillac with the flathead V8. I believe it is an L head design. To my surprise when I bought it, it has an updraft carburetor. Most other cars of that period that I have seen had gone to a downdraft design. One problem with my car is that the design is such that the carburetor is buried below what closely resembles an octopus of manifolds. The carburetor is rather inaccessible. More to the point of this post, I'm guessing it is a very low RPM engine - perhaps 3500 max? Phil

That is going to be a very handsome car when you are finished. I like the color scheme very much. Thanks for posting the pictures (please post more!). Also, thanks for starting this thread. I'm learning a lot from your posts and those of others. Phil

I also wondered if 3D printing would be an appropriate way to go for parts like water pumps and maybe Johnson carburetor bowls. There is a very interesting thread on the subject on the Cadillac & LaSalle Club website. Here is the link: http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=159641.0 My conclusion is that it is a good way to go, if you can do the CAD modeling yourself or have a fellow hobbyist who is willing to do it for free or a reasonable price. Phil

It is neat to see people getting together again - safely. That looks like a fun day. I am envious. Also, liked the Cadillacs and the Rambler. Phil

I love it also. I bought the DVD. Now I can watch it whenever. Some are keepers. Phil

That is a very handsome car. The smiles on the two faces in the driver's seat make the picture even better. Thank you for posting it.

"There is one extremely rare car in the mess." You've piqued my curiosity in this stay-at-home time. What is the rare car, and where is it? Thanks, Phil

Actually, I think it has a radiator cap. My 1929 Pierce had an archer-less cap, that was quite good looking: Not flat, it had slight uplift towards the center. If I recall correctly, it was a large cap, probably 5 inches in diameter. How I miss that car! Great picture. Phil

Fred Winterburn recently posted this on the MogGroup site which is a site for Morgan sports car owners/lovers. You may find it helpful. "I just posted this on the Porsche 356 registry as a lot of my customers for 6V CDIs frequent that site. I do not intend to post it on any other forum. Folks, A customer asked about a better condenser and I told him what I had suggested a few years ago in the form of a ceramic capacitor that could be soldered into a gutted condenser shell and then potted with epoxy. Quite a few people with various cars now have used this capacitor to make their own more reliable condenser. This ceramic capacitor outperforms the original paper/foil condensers of similar capacitance but appears to be now obsolete. I ordered 4 more that will do me the rest of my life. DigiKey still has them but the price has doubled from 3 years ago. I looked for a substitute but couldn't find anything that wasn't horrendously priced. This little capacitor is a good one if you want to grab a few while they are still available. It is 1000V rated and 125 degree C rated. A polypropylene high voltage capacitor might work just fine but the maximum temperature rating is usually 110 degrees C at the most. I know this little ceramic cap will take the abuse. The part number is Kemet C350C224KDR5TA I have one inside a Lucas shell for my Morgan and will do the same for the Mallory condenser on my Volvo 1800. Condensers are not stressed if using a CDI, but they take a real beating otherwise. Fred https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/e ... -ND/789646". He showed the attached picture. I have used his approach successfully with my Morgan (12V system) and Cadillac (6V system).

It may be just a regular 'ol 56, but what a neat car! Congratulations. Also, please post more pictures when you get a chance.

Well... OK, now that I know my limitations, I guess I will go out and fire up the walk-behind lawnmower!

I think the standard for '30s, '40s, '50s and '60s batteries was that one should keep the water level just above the plates. I always filled to just below the bottom of the filler holes. That worked for me. Phil

Good point. The gauge is fluctuating under different conditions. Is the car actually overheating? My criterion for overheating is boiling over with some steam. I have had several cars where the temperature gauge fluctuated from cool to normal to hot and back gain, depending upon whether I was driving uphill, downhill, on a straight, or at a light. (Actually, every one of them was British - seven '50s - '60s Jaguars, three '50s - '60s Morgans, one '59 MG). Even my current 1966 Morgan fluctuates in temperature as the thermostat does it thing in response to driving environment. My 1935 Cadillac is rock solid in its behavior: no fluctuations at all. But then, the Cadillac has enough water in its system to drown several Morgans. Phil

I attended the Veterans’ Day parade in Southern Pines, NC. Highlights included a flyover of vintage military planes performing the Missing Man Formation and a parachute drop with three parachutists landing in a spot on the main street. Veterans were driven in old - or new - cars, driven by the owner and preceded by someone with a placard showing his/her name and service. Near the reviewing stand, the name of each veteran was announced as well. Veterans rode in groups by conflict - all the WWII veterans in one group, all the Korean War veterans in another, the Viet Nam veterans next, etc. It was very nicely done. Gave us a chance to see a great bunch of cars and honor a great bunch of people.

If you haven't solved the problem already, I'd recommend you contact the AMC Club https://www.facebook.com/AMCRambler You may find it is a common problem with a well-known solution, or find a colleague who has had the problem and figured out a fix. I have a 1966 Morgan that had the same symptoms. For that car it was a design flaw: The water flow rate through the radiator was too high, so it didn't have a chance to cool adequately. The solution was to put a partial plug in the bypass hose. Please post the solution for your car, once you have it. Good luck, Phil