Chris Bamford

I’m very pleased with the home-brew transmission lube in my KisselKar and Model T Warford transmissions. It might work well in your Stutz. Sticky red red chassis grease and modern rear end lube. A big blob of the ideal ratio will slowly slump at room temperature. The mix mix appears to stay blended over time and it leaks much slower than any other lube I’ve tried. Whenever I look inside, the stuff is everywhere. Including all over the gears.

That’s odd. My 1906 Orient is Clockwise rotation (viewed from the rear, where one stands to crank).

Ivan Saxton, if you’re still listening — thanks for your interesting and very informative post above. I had a cartridge tube core built for my 1912 KisselKar 20+ years ago to replace a shot formed strip core.

On the Hurley Forest Service Road north of Pemberton BC. Speed advisory is 20 km/hr, about 12 mph.

This '27 Chev was painted many years ago with one of those setups — by the current owner's mother!

Pretty sure it’s a Brush runabout with the timber frame rails and that unusual front suspension. Wooden frame, wooden axles, wooden wheels and wooden run.

Sorry no. This was 15 years ago (yikes). From memory, a cone scoop about 3/4" diameter was located downstream of the manifold and early in the horizontal exhaust pipe upstream of the cutout and muffler. This scoop funneled through the exhaust pipe wall into copper tubing of about 1/8" ID. The flexible tubing wound up and around for maybe 5' to the filler area of the fuel tank under the front seat. I understand some 1912 KisselKars were built with the exhaust pressurizing a rear-mounted fuel tank. The pressure line was plumbed into the top of the tank in the filler area. The gas cap has an O-ring machined into the underside to contain the pressure. IMO there is basically zero chance that the necessary combination of: Spark, Oxygen %, Flammable vapour %, flow rate, sustained heat generation, etc. could occur to cause combustion or an explosion. What many people fail to appreciate is that there is very little actual flow of exhaust toward the tank. Maybe a gallon of exhaust over 12-15 miles of driving to replace fuel consumed. That exhaust gas is not going to be hot when it reaches the tank. And it's sure not going to have much oxygen content. Having said that I really like Mark's spark arrestor description and would definitely use one in any future system. _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ I was fortunate to find a slightly patinated nickle fuel pressure pump years ago and love it. Pump is mounted on the rear outside corner of the driver's seat, an easy reach and not at all awkward to pump. Up to 2 lb is easy but unnecessary. Being able to pre-pressure the fuel system after long standing is a plus. I use an aquarium aerator line check valve to maintain pressure, although I suspect it of a bit of back leakage. The carburetor will cough a bit on acceleration when the pressure is wanting but 3-4 quick strokes brings it right up. This repeats every few minutes and is an enjoyable part of the driving experience. It's also quite a curiosity for many passengers.

I ran an exhaust pressure fuel system on my ‘12 KisselKar for a while. It created about a half-pound pressure in the tank. Agree there is no appreciable danger in this approach. I now pressurize the fuel tank with a vintage air pump. One pound pressure is plenty for any hill. The carburetor is a BB-1.

Semi-fluid grease should work fine. Penrite Oil is one manufacturer of this, try a vintage motorcycle parts/service vendor. I have generally mixed up my own equivalent to the commercial stuff... start with a tube of the red or blue sticky waterproof chassis grease (I use a Shell product), scoop it into a mixing container with a bit of motor oil, then stir in dollops of conventional rear end lube until the potion is uniformly mixed and just viscous enough to barely flow. This concoction has served me well for years in my 1912 KisselKar transmission and the Warford accessory over/underdrive in my "24 T Speedster. It does flow a bit quicker when warm of course, and greatly reduces leakage past shafts, shifter rods, etc. Both of these cars will shift smoothly up and down without using the clutch pedal. All it takes is the right sort of lube and the right timing (which will come with practice). As others have said, you can't be in a hurry with the shifter. Naturally, downshifts will require a blip of the throttle as you pass thru neutral. it"s a nice boost for the ego when you can go thru the gears from first on up to top and back down without ever touching the clutch!

I would grab some 3/14" or 1/4" flat stock and carefully lay out and drill/cut/file hexagonal holes to snugly fit the flats (once the pipe wrench damage was tidied up with a file). One hole at each end and maybe 18-24" long if you have space to swing it. A worthwhile embellishment (whether or not one makes a custom wrench), is to use the centre spark plug or priming cup hole to secure the wrench... fashion a heavy steel washer larger OD than the wrench OD and use something threaded into the centre hole to run it up tight against the wrench. That way you can carefully clobber the wrench with little danger of it flying off or damaging the flats.

I believe that improved battery technology is the key to greater practicality and market acceptance. Mercedes has an innovative approach for one of their models:

Thanks Jon. That was a very interesting read.

Interesting post on the HCCA Forum from a fellow who installed a driveshaft disc brake on his 1910 Buick. Many photos included. https://hcca.org/BOARDS/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1095&sid=3e0918878629a141b5a775f6c1c2e57e

Interesting photo, 8E45E... I think that may be my Orient Buckboard. Not that I mind, but I'm curious where you might have come across this pic? If it's my car I don't believe that's one of my photos.

Better than I could have done without a roster, but... 1924 (front plate), 1953, 1928, 1956 yes, 1929 yes, 1951, 1951 yes, not sure, I dunno, 1976 1929 yes.