cascadia

Members
  • Content Count

    92
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

22 Excellent

About cascadia

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.cascadiaclassic.com

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

373 profile views
  1. Hi everybody, I took the solenoid into a service shop and he was able to get it working again. There was an internal short. I took it to an old-time repair shop here in Portland named Philbin Manufacturing, he does a lot of distributor work for flathead guys. Thank goodness that there's still folks like that out there, guys with that type of experience. They don't deal with computers, they just put it on the bench and start testing it! 😊 Grateful.
  2. Hi Jim, I bought it from a dealer friend of mine. That's his Hodges Hauler in the photos, pretty nice setup! 🤩
  3. Good thinking. I reinstalled it on the car, and added a ground strap for good measure. No go. I think it must be some internal that I can't get at or see. Maybe just the relay like you said. I'll take it in for service and let you all know how it ended up. Thanks for everyone's comments.
  4. Thanks for the help Bloo. When I put it back on the car I made all the usual connections, including the starter motor. I took a closer look at the magnet wire. I can see one (they're tiny) connected to the small ground terminal up top. I can't see a 2nd one, but I do see a small portion of an insulated wire coming out of the center back of the frame before it disappears back into it. Maybe that's the one that goes to the positive terminal up top? Either that or the positive wire's snapped off, although I don't see any remnants or broken leads. I have power to the moveable part of the relay, and it does transfer over to the fixed part of the frame when it closes. It definitely snaps closed when power's applied to the positive terminal up top. Just no action from the coils. But one more clue could be that when I apply power to the terminal up top to close the relay, I noticed with my test light that whole case of the solenoid assembly is energized. That can't be right.
  5. Back on the car, and unfortunately, no difference. 😑 What can be causing the plunger not to move?
  6. Thanks for the information. I think I figured out what was wrong: The big terminal that the battery cable attaches to was shorting to the case internally. I added an insulation washer and it solved the problem. But now the plunger doesn't want to move. With 6V power to the large and small positive terminals, and ground to the case and small terminal (on the top left in my photo), the relay will click, but the plunger doesn't move. I removed the plunger and cleaned it up with 00000 steel wool, and adjusted the point gap and air gap to my shop manuals' specifications. Any ideas from here? The frustrating part is that it was definitely working before, but turning on by itself. Manually pressing the plunger with power on does make the opposite terminal (the one that goes to the starter) read hot. Here's the 6V tester I was using, maybe it doesn't have enough amps to get that plunger moving. I'm going to reinstall the solenoid on the car and I'll report back.....
  7. It's a 5 terminal VR, and the engine, starter, and all parts are stock 1935. The terminals on the solenoid that tested hot were the smaller ones on top. They tested hot with no wires connected to them. The starter arm pulls back properly, and the plunger on the solenoid itself is working. The starting mechanism all works freely, it's the starting on its own part that's the problem. 😄
  8. Yes, thanks, I have the shop manual (it's a 50 series with the later engine) and have studied it closely. The vacuum system is not at fault, I've determined that. I'd rather not make any modifications to the factory design, but am more interested in finding out the reason for the fault, and bringing the car back to its normal operating condition.
  9. Hi all, so I have an interesting dilemma. The '35 Buick that I just got has a mysterious way of trying to start on its own! Unsettling to say the least. Thankfully I was close by when it happened, the ignition was off, and it was out of gear. The accelerator switch is adjusted properly, in fact, I disconnected the electrical lead from it completely, thinking that was the obvious suspect. Still tries to start! I put a quick disconnect on the battery until I get this figured out. Disconnecting the ground terminal (marked 'solenoid') on the voltage regulator will stop it from doing this, but then of course the car won't start when you want it to either. I've removed the relay cover and can't see any signs of obvious damage or burned areas. All of the car's wiring is original, and doesn't appear to have ever been tampered with. The interesting thing is that when I put a test light on the 2 terminals, both of them had power to them, whether the ignition was on or off. I'm thinking that there must be some internal short? Electrical diagnostics are not my strong suit. I removed it from the car for the photo and further testing.
  10. It's just a regular 'ol 56, no rumble seat. Thanks for the quick reply!
  11. Hi all, I recently bought a 1935 Series 50 Business Coupe (model 56) and was wondering if anyone could tell me how many were made in that body style?
  12. Yes, the SE option included the higher HP motor, dual exhaust, and wire wheels.
  13. Are you sure you're not thinking about the C-type model?
  14. The SE designation refers to Special Equipment, which often included the "C" type head.