Bloo

One of the pictures in the ad seems to show a touring or sedan rear section. I wonder if that is Buick as well?

The 1.6 liter CAS fails? Wow. Well, I never had that happen or even heard of it. I have changed that stupid o-ring more times than I can count. The thing that really surprises me is that the airflow meter has never failed. The car has over 300k miles (480,000km), and made a 4800 mile road trip in September. I am not 100% sure, but I do not believe the engine has ever been apart. It still has a short nose crank, and the defective 1990 hydraulic lifters that rattle when you slow down after a freeway run. There was a TSB for the lifters. The original owner could have had them replaced on warranty had he/she bothered. I am a former mechanic, and can usually tell if something has been overhauled. Apart from the heatshield and mounts on the header (that always break), I have not found a single mismatched bolt or missing washer on the engine or the transmission. No sealer showing where it wouldn't have been, and the hoses were all Mazda original until 2 years ago when I replaced them wholesale. It is daily driven, and fairly low maintenance, even at this mileage.

Definitely not an EMF 30 (though I too can see resemblance in some of the parts).

Yeah, too bad, but the forum was being overrun. Hopefully the long term solution will be something better than a countrywide ban. We have had legitimate postings from Russia in the past, as well as many from Germany.

That is really going to come in handy sorting out your station wagon. Does it work?

Typically they didn't. If the car was located in the US, someone probably drained it out in the summer, and then put the same stuff back in later.

I agree. Someone slipped a digit somewhere. If they ever really knew, it was probably 1926, not 1916. 1913 was the last year for acetylene headlights on most cars, some had electric earlier, but trucks lagged. I have seen late teens and 20s trucks with acetylene lights. If you have a magneto and gas headlights, you don't really need a battery. Trucks carried on like that for a long time. Drum-style electric headlights like those are mostly a 1920s thing, also the engine appears to have detachable heads. That would have been cutting edge in 1916 for anything other that a model T Ford.

There is so much BS floating around about Ethylene Glycol antifreeze it can make you dizzy. It is a rabbit hole. You can read for hours, maybe days, and still not really know anything. I have been using DexCool and similar "phosphate free" modern formulas since the mid 1980s in all sorts of old cars and it has not caused me any trouble yet, though I get dire warnings via the Internet so often I have become numb to it. Maybe it will bite me eventually, I don't know. I'm not holding my breath. IMHO no matter what sort of Ethylene Glycol antifreeze you are using, the important thing is to change it every 2 years (at least), no matter what the bottle says.

That is just the natural grain. I also expect that they would have been smooth when new, but I was not around then, so don't know for sure. If someone stripped them to refinish them, or if they weathered, the grain filler would have gone away. In addition to the loss of any filler, the grain also raises when unprotected wood gets wet. It wouldn't be Oak, unless someone replaced the wood with Oak. In fact, a few years before your car was built one manufacturer was involved in a high-profile lawsuit when they tried Oak wheels and some of them disintegrated. Don't quote me, but I think it was Buick. The correct wood to use in North America is Hickory, and that is probably what they are. Hickory has a visible grain when not filled, somewhat like Oak.

I like them too, but unless you know something I don't, they aren't made in the correct size. Firestone looks nice. So does Olympic, and they cost the least by far. OTOH Lester might put the most rubber on the ground.

Glad you got it sorted!

It shouldn't be. This isn't a general thread, its about 525/550-17. As far as I know, all current production antique tires come from the same manufacturer, no matter whose name is on the sidewall. The only exceptions are Blockley and Diamondback-Auburn, neither of which are offered in this size. The only radial in the mix is the Coker Excelsior Stahl Sport. IIRC The usual issue with this particular size is with sidemounts, spare tire covers, etc. because when the 2 sizes were combined, all tires became the larger size. I see a rear mounted spare with no cover, so that is probably not an issue here. If I were going to road trip in this car, I'd get the Stahl Sports. If not, I'd get whichever tire looks best (probably not the Stahl Sports). The Allstates on the car are great looking tires. That's going to be a tough act to follow.

Whats wrong with the distributor?

For what it's worth, your current engine may not be worn out. These engines are a 1933 design, and normally use more oil than a modern car. Pontiac was building cars intended to last 100,000 miles when a typical Chevrolet might have 2 or 3 minor overhauls in that time. Pontiacs had really hard blocks, (and also oiled the cylinders maybe a little more than other cars if you believe the shop manual, in the interest of long life). I would correct the position of the draft tube, and make sure that the breather cap is clean and open. Non-functional crankcase ventilation tends to increase oil burning. Another thing, your carburetor looks like it may have not had attention in a long time. I would make sure that it is not running too rich, as even a little bit rich will increase blue smoke a lot. I don't mean the black smoke that occurs when the engine runs extremely rich, I mean blue oil smoke. You could check that the choke opens all the way, and maybe shut it down immediately after a highway run and look at the spark plugs. Fuzzy dry sooty black indicates probably too much gas. Good luck with your project, whatever you do.

Brake and Clutch (Seattle WA) and Brake and Equipment (Minneapolis MN) come to mind.

IMHO contaminated shoes will never be ok until relined. Some folks think its ok to wash them, but brake material is made to run really hot without gassing off. When they get hot enough to gas off, you can push on the pedal as hard as you want and nothing happens. If there is anything present that will burn at a lower temperature than the brake lining, it will render the brake (on the wheel with the contaminated shoes) inoperable when it gets hot enough, due to gas fade. At lower temperatures there would only be a slight pull due to the contamination, or maybe no symptoms at all. There is a high probability you would never notice until descending some mountain pass, or make a panic stop from high speed, and then the contaminated shoes wouldn't work. I have never heard of the campfire thing. Not on my car, but to each his own.

Congratulations!

Or Plymouth. Some had Plymouth bodies. 2.83 liters though is about 172 ci. Ever heard of a Dodge or Plymouth 6 that small?

6 cylinders and 2.83 liters? Was that a Perkins diesel? https://www.allpar.com/mopar/perkins.html

How long was it before it shook you down for another quarter?

Both 27 and 25 seem to be more common. I never see 26. I could really use some 34x4 (or other 26") tires that are good enough to roll a chassis around the shop on.

Will sagebrush work? Maybe some wheat? This picture is months old. No fall colors here yet....

Doubtful, but it does increase your chances a bit. There sure aren't many cars out there that use 26 inch tires.

Well, I guess I don't have a parts unit. I dug around for it today and came up empty.

The tilt of those machined surfaces (and the height) where the two pieces bolt together should set things in such a way that all the ports line up to the holes in the block (in the up/down direction). Any slop sideways can help line up the intake ports flush with the exhaust ports where they contact the block. Sometimes bolting it to a block with the bolts not tight can help you line things up. Once you have all that, if the surfaces are out of plane where they contact the block, you might have to machine the whole assembly flat where it contacts the block. The quick easy way to fix that it to run it over a surface grinder, but you don't see those much in auto machine shops anymore.