SpecialEducation

Good luck to you, I hope you get it all sorted. Unfortunately, without a WRITTEN warranty, I'm going to expect the seller to do exactly zero. Without a written document you have no legal protection, and the seller probably knows this. Occasionally you get an upright guy who may throw a little back your way, so it doesn't hurt to ask. There are a few things in this story that don't make sense to me, but as long as you have competent mechanics that you can trust, I'll assume it'll all work out in the end. Have you popped the valve covers on the original engine? I'm curious if that's where your #8 rocker came from. I'm wondering if they didn't break one early after the rebuild and just slipped in a used rocker. Does it have an aftermarket cam profile? Perhaps more lift than stock?

Looks like it’s from a LeMons race, to me... https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/24_Hours_of_LeMons

Ours does, but the pedal start was defeated long before we got it... Whoever put the button in bypassed everything factory.

Group 3 is Fuel & Carburetion...

Yeah, I’m thinking it might be fun to display with Ruby at the nationals in Oklahoma City next year! Now I’ll be on the lookout for a 1990 version to go with Pepper... ?

OK, I just impulse bought a Mac version of the same disk. I'll report back later... lol

Well... since I have an '89 and a '90, this interests me as well. What I'd actually do is pull screen grabs (none of this video camera on a CRT business), and convert it into an interactive slide deck. For universal access, I'd probably convert it all to PDFs. If someone can get me the data off the floppy, I'd be glad to give it a go.

Wow, a 720k! lol One less hole than a 1.44M ? Win95 *might* run it, but the 3.1 machine for sure will. Please note: It says to “Feel free to copy and pass on to friends!”

I run mostly Macs, but I've got specialized equipment that I have to keep XP around for. The Commodores are just for fun.

I believe they are plug & play, no wiring mod needed, for 90/91 Reattas (and the billion other models they fit).

I have Macs, PCs, and even Commodores, which were all popular machines back in '89 (just hope it's not Atari). I'd be willing to give it a go, too. Can we see some pix of it? Does it say which system it was for?

I wouldn’t trust a NOS piece of rubber for anything. We cut the rubber off of our original ball. I will say that some don’t think that’s right, but it has worked fine for us. Also, not all ‘56 torque balls were the same. Our kit came with a shaft seal that had an ID that was WAY too big. We found one local.

I know a lot of GN guys are pretty happy with their RetroSound Newports... https://www.crutchfield.com/S-vw3JSTvgjwn/p_068NEWPORT/RetroSound-Newport.html

'55 hoods don't close without significant amounts of manipulation. I've never owned one, but I've helped several people close the hoods on their very nice '55s.

I’m not saying I agree with that paper 100%, but it is a good starting point, especially for this audience. I worked for years as a propulsion systems engineer, and I know things I can’t say out loud because I’m still loosely related to a major piston engine manufacturer (sister company). While there are some differences in the way piston aircraft engines are designed, built, and operated, the basics of oil shear and the effects of additives is very much the same. The big difference is that the majority of cars are scrapped when they need a new engine, where an aircraft engine overhaul is scheduled maintenance. We tear down these engines at a high frequency and track a lot more data from the field, because things like a worn cam lobe can result in an airplane in the trees instead of in the sky.

Weight of the oil is dictated by bearing clearances. Too thin and it will shear & it won't do the job. To thick and it can’t get into where it needs to be and it won’t do its job. Heavy oil also puts more stress on the oil pump drive. The ONLY reason to go heavier is if the engine is significantly worn and you have low oil pressure. Additives are a completely different story. You need ZDDP (aka zinc phosphate) in the oil to keep from destroying the cam & lifters. Ignore everyone who cites a brand preference, and look at actual oil specifications. API SN spec won't cut it in these engines. CJ-4 spec (often marketed as diesel oil) will. If an oil meets both, that’s fine. CI-4 is ok, but not as good, CK-4 is insufficient. Beware of labels that cite “CJ-4 compatible.” That’s not the same as “equivalent.” Or just buy an SN spec oil and add a ZDDP additive. For in depth info, start here: http://www.widman.biz/English/Selection/Oil.html

Someone caught me leaving a show...

My '90 only has an antique tag because I bought it in Tennessee. The PO installed the tag with bolts, so my current Kansas tag is under the pax seat waiting for me to take the time to care to install it. In Kansas, I can't get tags until the car is 35 years old, so my 1983s don't qualify until I renew in August.?

From what I’m reading, you have a ‘cranks but no start’ issue? To say it doesn’t turn over sounds like a no crank issue, but what you are really saying is that it will crank and occasionally fire, but no start. If that is the case, can you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key to run? Those old pumps hate to sit. I’ve seen many ‘ran when parked’ failures related to a sitting electric pump. You should hear it run for about a second when you first turn the key to run (not start). If it doesn’t run, check the relay first. You can also hotwire the pump for diagnostic purposes if its a bad relay. If it is running, check fuel pressure as Ronnie said.

Sounds & looks like $200 well spent.

Do you have a list of museums you’ve tried, so we don’t double-team? The first one I’m thinking of is the Route 66 Museum in Clinton, Oklahoma. It is run by the OHS, which is a state agency (public!).

Yes, blue is switched, and red is always hot: http://www.metraonline.com/files/products/INSTAW-PW22.pdf

No. The relay on the stock antenna should be internal on your 3rd party replacement.

Without having the data for the new one, I’m guessing. Red should always be hot, black always ground. Blue hot makes it go up, blue cold is down. On the car, orange is hot at all times, so it should go to the red. Black-black, pink-blue.

1. Stay away from ethanol. 2. Shield the pump & lines from heat. 3. Install an electric pump. The higher the pressure, the lower the vaporization point. Put the regulator as close as you can to the carb. 4. Create a tank return so excess fuel is circulated through. Faster moving fuel picks up less heat spends less time forward of the firewall where it’s hot.