SpecialEducation

Do you prefer zinc plated steel or brass? I like brass... https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-24241-565-040.aspx

I smell what you are stepping in. I was going to say that your 6v system should be about 8 with the engine running anyway, and you could probably tweek your regulator up to 9 without much trouble. For a daily driver, I'd have more concerns, but assuming you drive it like most folks do, you probably wouldn't find yourself running through a bunch of bulbs at 9v. My biggest concern would be overheating your generator, or maybe your battery on long drives. I don't know what the availability of 8v generators is like, but I'd assume it's cheaper just to put a 12v generator on it, but leave your current regulator in place. You could also just put a second 6v battery in the system that steps up the system voltage just for the windows circuit. Charging it in the car would be tricky, though. Not impossible, just tricky...

Why 8 volts? I wouldn't think that 2 volts would make much difference on most systems. If the car isn't highly original (what year are we talking about, here?), and you are wanting to improve function & usability, I'd just go to a 12v alternator system. Obviously you'd need to change out your lights, but you'd also want to either dial it down for the ignition system or change the coil. Otherwise, your points aren't going to last long... I've known several cars that continued to use a 6v starter on a 12v system. As long as you aren't cranking for long durations, they usually survive pretty well.

I’m sure they will ruin it... lol

Looks like it's closed. Let see if it gets relisted... Funny, when I shift the Dynaflow in the '56, it's sure noticeable... lol

SPUSHROD Compressed Pushrod Product Incidentally, this photo triggers me. I'm in the middle of an engine build, and I'm anxiously awaiting my custom pushrods. These better not be them! lol

Here’s a fine Fitty Fo’ for the great outdo’... (not mine) https://quadcities.craigslist.org/cto/d/mason-city-1954-buick-camper/6799580895.html Filling in a few details from the ad before this gem gets snatched up: "1954 Buick camper..... no title. This was built in Northwood Iowa high school in 1972 as a shop project. Framework of camper Is steel 2 x2 square tubing so structure is in good condition. Floor of car has some rust. Nailhead motor is smaller cubic inch and is stuck so overall condition unknown. Nice blank canvas and certainly an one of a kind! $2000.00 or best offer. Please look at pictures as they tell the story."

When dad is dead & gone, I’m putting red under the sweepspear of Tux. (Shhhh!! Don’t tell him!)

The manual says the prop shaft is 2 pieces, and they can be separated, but I have no idea how big they are, I've never had the shaft out of the tube. There is no rear u-joint, that's the point of the torque tube. Adam: Is the car you are trying to fix also a Roadmaster? https://www.hometownbuick.com/1957-buick-rear-axle-service-procedures/

Aw, crap. That sounds expensive. Maybe you can get parts from someone converting to an open drive line. Even if someone is giving away a whole torque tube/rearend assembly for free, shipping is prohibitive. Hope you can find something within driving distance.

Like I said, not fun or easy...

The second they package one of these with a Buick, I’m buying one! lol

Yep, speedo (not Mr. Earl) working is a good sign (kinda). I doubt you need a new transmission. Either way, it sounds like an issue at the torque ball, so that’s where I’d open up first. Hopefully it’s in the ball and not the tailshaft or drive shaft.

Sounds like the splines in your torque ball are blown out. The torque ball can be replaced without removing the transmission or rear axle. Not easy or fun, but possible.

I would think that if there was a limitation, it would be specified here:

Here's another factory lit with a tri-tone.

I totally get that they wouldn’t want to build anything off the wall, so if I was in that position, I’d want documented combos, too. It’s funny how a Google search produces no shortage of tri-tones in the modern era, but most of their literature shows 2-tones. Grey with a yellow top? Seriously? Who thought to advertise that one? 😂

I can’t find the post, but I seem to recall Dale in Indy telling the story of a customer ordering a car in a combo that resembled something like a circus tent. Dealers ordering cars would stick with things they thought they could sell, but nobody wants to say no to a customer with cash in hand...

As far as I can tell, in '56 you could get ANY standard paint in ANY combo for tri-tone,. Believe me, some folks ordered some strange things... I really like red/black/white, but I may be biased... lol White/Red/White and White/Black/White seemed to be popular. I'll see what others period correct documents showed...

Depends on if it's your money or mine! lol

I had considered posting this question in the pre-war forum because I very much expected it to be, but I didn't want to limit myself. It looks like the pre-war guys found me anyway, but if Speedo wants to move this topic over there, I won't be offended...

An associate found this in the desert. Anyone know what it is or what it’s from?

I would expect so. Check this out: https://www.streetsideclassics.com/vehicles/3335-atl/1949-buick-super-50

I know it’s a bit of a drive, but the nice thing about the LKQ yards is the website. From these photos, I don’t like any of them. The only one that is probably there because of a wreck has been there since May, and the one that came in the yard in early December is arrow straight and already had things half tore apart under the hood. Not a good sign... That Riv is SC’d, and came in clean & straight. Probably not a good candidate.