Takis

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  1. sorry.. 575-600HP.. the other range was for another engine I was speaking with the tech... I will know exactly after the dyno is done on it next week...
  2. OK everyone... I did not give up on this oil burning issue... I could not see any stains on my garage floor from oil... I was still burning a quart of oil every 200-400 mikes of driving... I understand it's a big block and all of them burn oil - which I agree with my answer in a few.... So, I saw some oil leaking around the manifold, but not a quart or so to burn for 200 miles... I also wanted to tweak the stok rochester 4 barrel carb... well. over the winter from reading and stuff.. I was going to replace the gasket of the intake manifold and replace the carb... while investigating, I also went o a couple of engine restore places... make a long story short, I am in the process in getting the entire engine rebuilt.... After they defraged, cleaned, bored out the engine block, we found out the main issue of the oil burning (where I suspected too) - of course it was rings, seals, ect. the pistons were carbon black as you can get from burning oil. Even though this project is costing me money - could never do a rebuild on my own - I am glad I did it.. the professional engineer mechanic told me how the pistons were not all weighted appropriately, and more work was done on correctly balancing things and making sure all tolerances make sense due to larger cam and boring of piston holes... btw I am not a mechanic, still learning, so please forgive my terminology if not correct. I have attached a picture of the block and the new carbon treated pistons along with the new head that I will be putting on.. the carb is a pro racing 4barell carb 880 CFM with new alum intak manifold. new lifters.. rods.. ect. new electrical system.. new converter (3000-3200 RPM I believe).. upgrading exhaust to 3" .. heavy duty timing chain.. the good news is that the tranny TH400 3 speed 3:23 is all working fine and tight - posi with a shift kit in the TH400 We estimate from the previous ~410 stick HP 455 we will now have anywhere from 650-700HP.. And the reason why I am doing this is because I have a 68 GS where this rebuilt 455 is going in to... but I still have the original matching numbers 400 motor, if I ever sell. I realize To much information - but this forum has 'helped' (I appreciate the advice, but it led me to spend more money - but having a muscle car always leads you that way) me, out and I wanted to contribute and close out with this issue. Thanks, Takis
  3. Thanks for the great info NTX and carbking.... Actually, I gave the go ahead over the weekend to the custom garage that will be doing the upgrade... One determination was the carb - currently, the stock (I believe) rochester carb is on it.. do not know cfm... but I will be getting an 820 cfm pro series... the mechanic/engineer has used these in the past and feels comfortable - I know they are expensive... $650-800 I am getting a new alum manifold to better match the larger carb. Getting all new electrical.... MSD Distributer/Coil/Ignition Firecore Spark Plug wiring With that, with the point that was made with RPM, placing a converter in to get the engine to better rev to where the HP and torque is at quicker and smoother... hopefully, there will not be any hesitation in the gas flow how I have now.. meaning, when I floor the gas, there is that initial 1/2 second stall hesitation and then things kick in Finally, since I was getting so much into the upgrade - I decided to go ahead and change the larger alum heads and cam for the 455... do not know that ,info yet. but I know I will be pushing the compression to 10:1 or so... btw, I think I have 2.5" exhaust already. I need to double check... because the headers where not in the price of the upgrade. So, that is the new upgrades... My existing 455 was upgraded about 7K ago too with mainly stock stuff - still runs great, just got used to the zoom.. and want more of a zoom... Likewise, all this started because I was leaking a little oil from my manifold that I needed to fix... Again, any thoughts are welcome... I will keep everyone posted... Likewise, I will place before and after pics along with during the build pics... Takis
  4. I am thinking about adding more horsepower to the 455 by upgrading Cam and heads. Then will alter carb to a more robust cfm to 820 with ne intake manifold... also add converter for gas to get quicker to the rpm where hp RPM range is at... i realize this is a very large upgrade, but any facts to do it or not too.. or what heads and carb should be used since I do not want to alter the hood... btw, this is going into a 68 GS, not a 72 with the hood scoop already there. Thanks much. Taki
  5. Hello everyone.. I realize this is a loaded question... I live in a cold climate and refuse to drive my 68 GS with rain, snow, and salt on the road... I have a 72 rebuilt Stage 1 in the 68 with ~6K miles on it. I start the car up once every 2 weeks on average for ~ 3 months out of the year while in a non-heated garage. When I start up it really sounds rough running at ~600RPM.. i let the engine by itslef (with no revving) warm up where the temp goes to ~195F. Takes about 20 minutes in 30F degree temperature. Then I manually rev the car in park at ~2000RPM for 1 minute at a time with a say 20 second rest inbetween for about 10 minutes... then I rev it up to 3000-3500rpm for 30 seconds once or twice. This is about 30 minutes of the car being turned on from start... My questions are: Should I rev my engine that high in park? in other words, is is better to rev with a load (meaning transmission hooked up and turning tires), or without? I intuitively feel that reving it that high without a load may push a rod through the engine... Any advice on this warming up the car and revving approach is appreciated. Thanks, Takis
  6. Thanks everyone for the advice.. At this time, I will try the zip ties approach.. I will fill you in and place pictures after the weather gets warmer.
  7. Thanks for input... First, the long pin you are referring to, does not protrude through the wire harness - again, this is an after market wire harness I bought. All 9 pins go into the wire harness... out of the 9, the one is the positive, while the other two make connections to the up and down of each window. I may need to just concentrate on the positive wire making a good connection. The dielectric grease I bought is similar to the below link... So, do not put this type of grease on it??? I understand the main issue is to make sure the connectors lock in. Should I wrap each node with aluminum foil? and push in??? When it gets warmer in the future, I will go and work on this again... https://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/lubricant-grease/ags-single-use-pouch-connector-protect/868167_0_0
  8. Would a dielectric type of grease like this do the trick?? in other word place the grease on the pin connectors that go into the harness.. then the slight movement with the connections will be assisted with the grease to always make the connection? Lubricant, Grease, Nyogel - 50g Tube A silica thickened, heavy viscosity, synthetic hydrocarbon grease intended for mechanical and electromechanical components that require a heavy level of damping. Used to reduce free motion and to quiet operating noise of loosely-fitting components.
  9. Hello Everyone Again! This is a great forum, and I appreciate everyone's input. I hope you can assist me with this.. This is an electrical issue with the driver's side 4 window power up and down switching. I bought both after market window switch 4 windows and also the interior housing that has all the wires.. From taking apart the previous stuff, the one housing plugs into the other... The issue now is that when I plug in the outside switch housing, the switch, say to the front driver side window, intermittently works. I have to hold the back portion og both housings tight where the RED wire is on the housing tight together to get things to work. I am pretty confident it is not the splicing and connectivity of the wires. At this time, I have not connected ALL wires.. just the power wire and the 2 wires the make the driver's side window go up and down. My question is: Is there some way to lock the two housings together? At the time the one housing simply has 'steel' leads that plug into the other... I have not placed anything around them, for now to get better connectivity. So, my question is.. is there any special trick to connecting the two housing.? I have placed a picture below... It is a little hard to see where the two housing connect to each other. I also place the wire harness housing by itself.. and a smaller picture of the outside window switch. There are 8 prongs that go into the switch, but not all the way through...
  10. EmTee.. thanks again for your intuitive responses... Well, before I posted the temp issue, I should of did a little homework, as i did now... Basically, before taking the time in changing the thermostat, I figure let me just look and see how full my radiator is.. I do not have a overflow bottle, so the overflow elastic tube just drips the water/anti freeze out. Anyways, firs time i checked the radiator, and I saw that i needed to add antifreeze. I realize the mix should be 1/2 water and 1/2 antifreeze, but I placed about a 1/3 of a gallon of antifreeze in the radiator. So, it was pretty low. I ran the car already once, and it did go up to 210 for a couple seconds, but overall it stayed at 190-200... So, I think this was the issue. Of course, I will drive the car around again, weather permitting... if it goes to 210, then I might change the thermostat. Thanks again, Takis
  11. EmTee.. Thanks for all the good info. Point #1 - the Choke/Idle issue I think you are correct. I do press the gas pedal down 2-3 times all the way down before starting, but when starting up, as i mentioned, it runs at low idle... Thus, I will look into the choke/idle setup with the Rochester 4 BBL carburetor. Point #2 Temp - Since this is a rebuilt engine, a. I do not know if they placed a thermostat in, and b. if there is a thermostat, the car was sitting for about 1.5 years before running. So, I ordered the thermostat and gasket, and I will put it in on a day I have time and is Ok in temp to work. Point #3- Yes, in drive, the RPM is around 400-500 and sounds good, once heated up. Point #4 - I use 10W40 (no synthetic stuff)... do not know if this adds any difference to your analysis. Point #5 - My gauges are the aftermarket ones that we place in a muscle car - one just for RPM, and the other is a three combo that includes oil, temp, and voltage. I assume I can trust all of these gauges. So, I will get back to you once I have placed the new thermostat in... in a few weeks or so... Thanks again. Takis
  12. Hello Everyone and Happy New Year (In a few days)!!! As mentioned in the title, I have a 1968 GS with a Rebuilt 455 Buick engine with 1972 Stage 1 engine. I have done compression test (all 8 pistons ~151).. no oil is leaking... everything seems to be working good from an observational perspective. Just to make sure the entire system is working correctly, I wanted to write down certain facts of what I have observed and also ask some questions along the way for a little debate concerning this 455 engine compared to what they should be... My parameters are RPM - MPH - PSI (for oil pressure) and Temp as I start the car and then drive the car.... When starting the car, especially in cold weather since I live in northern OH. - especially now over the winter where I do not drive the car... Say the outside/garage temp is ~25 degrees (non-heated garage)... Here are some observations: 1) Overall it takes ~15 with revving the engine frequently to get the temperature to go to ~190.. then I take the car out for a quick drive, if there is no snow/salt/or rain.... If I do not take out for a drive, how long should I let the car run for? Should I rev the engine say to 2000 RPM and hold for like 30 seconds???? or just let idle? The main question is when heating up the engine for people like me in cold areas of the country where we do not drive? how long do we let idle??? 2) When starting up, it sound a little rough, and it idles a little low say around 500RPM... Once heated up the idle RPM is around 850-900RPM.... Does this sound correct? 3) The oil pressure.. when heated up and at idle, the PSI for oil is right at 60 at the beginning... interesting, say I do drive it for a while afterwards, when I bring it back into the garage, place it in idle say after 1/2 hour of driving, the PSI goes to 20 at idle.... Does this make sense? Now in driving mode - way after car has heated up: 1) At IDLE - RPM - 900, MPH - 0, PSI -20 2) After driving on the freeway for a while, the temperature has peaked to 210F and stayed there. never any higher... Street driving, it stays around 190-200F.... Is 210F too high, or in appropriate range? 3) At 60MPH - RPM - 2500 PSI -60 - In 3rd gear, At 70MPH - RPM - 3000PSI -60 - In 3rd gear At 80MPH - RPM - 3300PSI -60 - In 3rd gear At 90MPH - RPM - 3700PSI -60 - In 3rd gear - What is the highest RPM I should put this engine and TH400 transmission... say top end on the freeway.... before you think I may blow a rod per the RPM params and speed... 4) As I drive around town and speed up to 40 from zero, the PSI oil pressure does fluctuate between say 15 and 50-60. Is this normal? Again, I am new to the 455 Stage 1 engine, and would like some validation in what I see from you experts with cars/ and buick's 455's. Thanks, Taki
  13. I hope everyone is having a nice Fall. Good news is I think I figured out the issue... Well, I did the compression test. It took me about 1.5 hours. only did the dry one, not the wet, by putting oil in before taking measurements. here are the measurements: Piston 1 - 152 Piston 3 - 152 Piston 5 - 152 Piston 7 - 152 Piston 2 - 150 Piston 4 - 149 Piston 6 - 150 Piston 8 - 155 Everything looks great... So we placed it on the lift to see if we see anything underneath. And we did. We saw small oil splashings/drops all around the oil temperature senser/switch that is the normal switch for the engine oil light. The blue part had oil leaking out of it... thus when the car is running, it splashes some oil around ion that area. So, I think we found the issue... Unfortunately, it is winter time, and I will not be able to drive the car for 800-1000 miles to see if I go a quart done. But we will see for sure next spring/summer. But almost 100% sure that this was the issue. The main lesson here when dealing with burningoil is place car on lift first to see if you find any oil anywhere on the engine before opening up engine. of course, i did not open to piston, but I was thinking about it. Below are pictures:
  14. Thanks to all for their respective info, especially to NTX5467. A little more info.. I use 10W40 oil - no synthetic. To baseline everything, I had a tune up and timing check as mentioned done when I first started driving the car in late May of this year. So, I will assume timing is OK, since a probe was used by a mechanic friend of mine and told me everything was correct during the tuneup. Thus, Checked the ignition including timing. Also, I have a breather on each aluminum header... no oil is leaking from any breather at all... I changed the PCV valve, but not the baffle... If the baffle is the rubber input portion... from what I recall, the fit was snug and the rubber looked good. btw, for the buick 455, the PCV valve goes right into the rear of the intake manifold (which is aluminum btw). How do I check baffle the correct way? I also recently opened up the headers to replace all rocker levers.. while things were opened, I did not see anything out of the ordinary.. I did tighten the rocker arms up to spec while opened with the same mechanic friend of mine. So, next steps is to do a Compression check. So, at this time, I am going to enjoy the rest of the summer/fall season and drive things around as is.... Live in CLE,OH area... and I contacted another friend of mind that rebuilds cars for years and offered to house my car in his garage through the winter (for short time, I hope) and open up the engine and do our debug. Of course, I will update with pictures, if taken, when I do anything for this topic. Again, thanks for everyone's comments and advice. Takis
  15. As in another post I had an oil issue, but it turned out being the rocker levers needing to be changed. Well, I changed all of them - 30-32... Things are running perfectly, at least with using my ear. Because of the burning oil issue initially, that was more apparent with the rocker lever arms, I thought I fixed the burning oil issue. I then added a new PCV valve... very easy install... What I noticed now is that I still have a burning oil issue, but I need to add a quart every 500-600 miles, as opposed to every 100-200 miles with the rocker levers... A little more history.. I recently bought the car over the winter - started driving during this summer. I only drove about 1000 miles on it. The 455 is a rebuilt 1972 engine placed in my 1968 GS. According to the dealer I bought it from, the previous owner who rebuilt the engine stated that the engine has only 5000 miles when I bought it..So, it seems the engine was broken in when I bought it... Most importantly, I do not have any oil stains in my very pristine nature stone floor garage. Also, when I punch it, I do not get smoke out of the exhaust.. also, when I use my finger at the end of the exhaust pipe test, I do not get carbon/oil residue. So, is this normal burning of oil for a large block and not worry about it.. just place a quart every 600 miles? Or should I be concerned? Thanks, Takis