SpecialEducation

I think you are agreeing with Coker, because all of your photos look like they are before '54, and they all looked pretty wide. Again, these are generalizations because there were a lot of tires out there, and they didn't last as long back then. Either way, white walls were starting to get narrower by '54, and by the mid-60s, they were pretty thin. The visual effect of the tire is a bit different between bias ply & radials too, but since Benjamin has a '56, let's look at this factory image from the November 1955 Buick Magazine: And our car today: These are Coker Classics...

ABC is most universal, but most car fires are B (liquid) or C (electrical). CO2 or Halons will leave no mess behind, but are usually BC only (some halons include the A (solids), but those are among the most expensive). Dry chemical will work on just about anything, but will leave you with a nice mess. Ingesting dry chem is very hard on engine internals. Think: A: Things that leave ASH. B: Things that BOIL. C: Things that carry CURRENT.

Hey, parkisw, nice ride! Ruby is my daily driver. Just a little over 242k on the clock now. The kids enjoy riding in this almost more than in the '56!

I studied the width of wide whites for a quite a while, years back, so I generally believe this statement from Coker to be true: "If your car was built before 1954, it would’ve featured a three-inch (or wider) white wall and if it was built after 1964, it would’ve come with a one-inch (or narrower) white wall."

Online registration is now open! I don't have a link on our website yet, but here it is for your convenience: http://events.constantcontact.com/register/event?llr=npu7gtpab&oeidk=a07eebmkels5491aa24

Hi, Steamy Florida Bill! I must say you've got great taste in cars, that's a nice looking stable. I may have to swing by for a visit the next time I'm in Florida!! ?

Can you tell me what check valve are you using?

https://www.hometownbuick.com/shop/

API CI-4 (better) or CJ-4 (good) oils will do just fine and are readily available. While they are marketed for diesel engines, many also meet SM or SN specs for gas engines, too (although that's not real important here). CK-4 oils may not protect your cam from the lifters as well. Be careful of CK-4s that say they are compatible with CI or CJ. That doesn't mean they are as good as the earlier specs. If the engine is not worn and maintains good oil pressure with your straight 30w oil, than any _W-30 should do fine. The first number isn't as important as the second. Forget brand names, only look at performance specs. That said, I recently bought a gallon of Castrol GTX for $9.99 that met CJ-4, CI-4, and SN specs. There are several Shell Rotella variants, and currently the T5 blend meets CJ-4, CI-4 and SM specs. This is always subject to change, though...

The sharp turn is inertial separation. It does better to catch particles with more mass. Less mass = less inertia = easier to change direction and be ingested. 1956 also started out with an open screen in the hood ornament that would allow air & debris to enter the engine compartment. Buick decided mid-year to replace the screen with a solid plate painted to look like a screen to reduce the debris being ingested.

I've found lots of anecdotal discussions on this forum and others, but no hard research showing the filtration level difference. From my days as a propulsion systems engineer, I know that typically debris is responsible for more cylinder wear than the metal/metal contact. We are not looking to win speed or efficiency contests, so preserving the engine is the #1 priority here. Lower manifold pressure = less power, so if Beemon has observed more vacuum, that would be consistent with restricted flow, but there are other factors to consider: It is very dusty in Kansas, particularly this time of year. Oil bath maintenance is messy. Good quality paper filters can be blown out and reinstalled in minutes for free...

Ran across this in salvage the other day... it made me sad.

Well, alcohol was still standard in early '56. "Permanent" antifreeze was an option mid-year.

I donno, what does normal look like?

Because fuel pumps never fail at the END of the season... Anybody running a truck pump on their Buick? We've never had our original pump off, we just keep replacing the top diaphragm. They last longer now that we avoid ethanol, but they still don't seem to last more than a couple years. Parts store doesn't have any 1956 Buick pumps, but they do have NEW 1958 GMC 322 pumps for $50. Not worried about the vacuum side, but the fuel in & out are clocked different... Thoughts? Glad to see the forums still hate unedited iPhone pix, too!

Looks like someone was inspired by Jeff Brock's Bombshell Betty...

Funny, my wife knows one of those, too...

I didn't think he looked much like a Kristyna... welcome to the forum. Where are are you located? Maybe we can find some locals for you to associate with, too!

For the external similarities in 55-57, it's amazing how much difference there is underneath. '56 has a lot of OYO parts, where 54 & 55 shared a lot of stuff, and 57 & 58 has some commonality. That said, there's still pretty good availability on most things, so get what you like and we'll help you work through it.

Parting out my Skyhawk convertible in 2009...

The hotel has new owners. Not a Best Western anymore, but they honoring the previous arrangements... Here's the new thread:

Buick Club of America Wheatland Chapter Presents: Saturday September 23, 2017 10:00 am - 2:00 pm Ramada Wichita Airport 5805 W Kellogg (US 54) - Wichita, Kansas Download a flyer or a registration form! Online registration will be open soon. www.WheatlandBuick.com

Buick Club of America Wheatland Chapter Presents: Saturday September 23, 2017 10:00 am - 2:00 pm Airport Inn & Conference Center 6815 W Kellogg (US 54) - Wichita, Kansas Download a flyer or a registration form! Online registration will be open soon. The host hotel has a group rate for the 22nd & 23rd. Just call 316-942-5600 and mention the Buick Club and you'll get the $79.99 rate. www.WheatlandBuick.com

The Kansas sun is pretty harsh, and plastic has a memory. I masaged it with a heat gun and a bottle of Armor All and got it pretty close to where it was, but it seriously had shrunk 2 inches sitting in the garage. Dad was convinced it would split before I got it back to where it was, but it didn't.