ArticiferTom

Mine where same . Was told by mechanic ,that if system dries out ie. leaks and rubber hardens it cracks . The fluid put in get between layer of inner and jacket causing it to balloon or break . They are ready available from ebay , Robert.'s , Andy's , Hagens and maybe even NAPA . Get all three ..

They are design to not be removed and will separate leaving the word VOID across them if pulled . You would be better off getting nos one's on ebay . All years appear from time to time . I found originals back to 1930 .

Just did a pinion seal change on my 1931 Dodge truck found pinion nut only snug . I was expecting more and when I laid the 3/4" drive and socket on and just my hand weight broke it free . I put it back same . Book on mine says adjustment is with shims inside cage . Talking with transmission guy who set my seal . He thought there was enough room for a second one . He said was sometimes done to work around shaft damage . Grease was added between .

Did such bad job last time . this one yesterday shot over bait . May not be legal in forums . LOL , Also not sure what it is ,maybe Chevy .

Looking great ! Will you be putting any pin stripe on ? Did they have on larger trucks ?

E-bay Tortuga Marine . Give a look

Heard of oldtimers coating frames with used trans fluid . ATF is high in anti corrosives . And used is cheap .

It is easier in todays vehicle with circuit board and gates and diodes . Currect is called and loses voltage .

I Am stumped . If you have + voltage on, out ground it eliminates opens circuit including filaments . Next is step back make sure bulbs are correct .

Connection on bulb . Test by removing ground from bulb should have + voltage ...

Beautiful !! Your a true craftsman , great machine design . Really like your center cutter . I felt compiled to scan some old photo of a set of my wheels . Most my jigs where only wood as only planned on two uses . Thanks for showing .

Gotcha ! If you made, they look great . You used a nice straight grain wood . I have made a few sets of 57" artillery wheels for cannon . Used mostly lathe and router . The hub where wood too .

Notice you relieved the spokes on inside edge . Was there a reason for that ?

Keiser your answer seems better . You beat me to the post .

Looks similar to locks on flexible section of brake lines .

List on craigslist and above in ' cars for sale '.

This nice survivor is for sale . Talk with owner many a times as my truck is same UF-10 model . His is about 300 earlier made in 1931 . https://newhaven.craigslist.org/cto/d/1931-dodge-pickup-truck-1-2/6583979364.html

Just dirt , grease and moisture on the top of a battery will give you a reading .

Got this pic of open early car on trailer . Being only an amateur Keiser finder , photo is bad . Found while doing road trip yesterday . Did get one good photo at last evenings cruse'in a '49 Ford with driver happy the dog days of summer are here .

Did you look at turning a channel in shaft for o-ring . Have same problem , just have not got that far along to be concerned with .

May want to simply sand blast surface then can be ground true with out damaging stones . My drums are factory painted yellow and heat never bothered them .

Must be from the extinct town in Schuylkill Co . that a mine fire over took .

Great story and coverage .

Maybe this site can help . Chet's great guy .http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2018/03162018.htm .

BTT price reduced 175 less a couple bulbs . Must go .