Oregon Desert model 45

Ron These are front and rear floor pans for my 25-45. The front pan could be fabricated by any shop with sheetmetal shear and press brake by making a box with flanges on 2 sides. Reproducing the stamped reinforcing feature at the bottom of the pan would increase the cost significantly as these are 1/4" deep. They will probably offer to just form some beads in X pattern to stiffen up the flat bottom panel. The dimensioned sketch plus photo should be enough to make the front pan. Corners are not welded. The rear pan is a much larger piece with a deep bump in the middle. Can you post a photo of your rear seat pan so we can see how much of it remains ? Kevin

1927 Standard based on radiator shell, stepped fenders, headlight bar, and one piece windshield.

These are the latches and hood handles for my 1925 Flint assembled Buick. Latch design remained unchanged for about 10 years, so 1922 is most likely identical to these. McLaughlin Buick sometimes used their own unique parts.

Here is an original Buick Tool Equipment checklist dated 7-14-19. I would assume the "Tool Kit" listed is the pouch that contained a set of end wrenches

Your Buick was originally a 27-26S Country Club coupe which looked like the photo below except it did not have the oval window. The top was removed to convert it to a homemade roadster, possibly by a teenage owner wanting to make it appear more sporty.

There is a tube inside the heat riser that could be rusted through or cracked which could cause loss of vacuum. Also check intake manifold for cracks and place it on a flat surface like a tablesaw and check for warped flanges using a shim or feeler gauge. Kevin

This started out as a coupe body. A roadster would have a nail flange at the upper beltline where the sheetmetal gets nailed to the wood framing. Instead there is a ragged cut sheetmetal edge. Another clue is the 2 tabs with 3 holes each. This is where the vertical wood timbers that support the roof structure and form the sides of the rear window framing are fastened to the lower sheetmetal.

How about a bridge ? After parting out a 1926 Buick chassis, my dad noticed the wooden beams holding up a foot bridge over the creek in the back pasture were rotten and needed replacing. The Buick frame was just the right length to span over the creek bed, and so a Buick was reborn as a bridge.

There are 2 lots of cage valves on e-bay. These are NOT MINE so don't ask me any questions about them. They could be from anything, but one lot includes a roller lifter so these are most likely Buick. since I don't have an early Buick with cage valves I am not very familiar with them. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Large-Lot-of-Antique-and-Vintage-Engine-Parts-Valves-Springs-Guides-1920s/164442071032?hash=item264982dff8:g:bNoAAOSwRJhfhMBq&autorefresh=true https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-Antique-and-Vintage-Engine-Parts-Valves-Springs-Guides-1920s-Durant/154138836269?hash=item23e363fd2d:g:hrQAAOSwBXRfhMHf

Blanking plate is circled. This covers up the exhaust flange that mates up to the upper heat riser that Hugh pointed out. I see what you mean about Bob's. Manifold gaskets are not listed as separate items but are sold as part of $$ full gasket set. Should be some other sources that will sell manifold gasket for Buick. I can recall my dad telling me that Model A manifold gaskets had the same hole spacing as the 26 Buick Standard engine that he worked on. Distance between holes measures around 3-3/16. Check and see if that will fit. You may still need to fabricate an adapter to mate a Rochester carb up to the intake manifold. Mine is a Master which has a larger intake bore and probably wider bolt pattern, your Standard might have 1/8 to 1/4 narrower bolt pattern. I also was a bit uneasy with the Rochester fuel inlet fitting located directly over the exhaust manifold. If I was to continue using this carb I would see if linkage could work after rotating it clockwise enough to get the fuel fitting off to the side where a drop of gasoline would fall to the ground instead of a hot manifold. Kevin

1925 Chevrolet ?

Something very important I did not see mentioned above is fuel pump. An electric fuel pump will be needed. The original vacuum powered fuel pump is the correct height to supply the original Marvel carburetor and will not supply a downdraft mounted 10 inches higher. A clamp will be needed to mount the horn to the manifold or else find another place to hang it. I mounted a single barrel Rochester carb of late 50's vintage GM pickup (which used a manual choke) to eliminate one variable for the first startup of my Master motor. Intake manifold is flipped, blanking plate mounted over the exhaust port for the heat riser tube, and the bolt pattern of intake and Rochester were identical but it rotated the carb by 45 degrees which might complicate a linkage for permanent installation. I still intend to try getting the Marvel to work once the car progresses a little more. A cable for the choke would be easy to get set up as the Rochester was designed for cable operated choke. Kevin

Large collections of unrestored model A parts are always available for sale on craigslist. Wheels from dry climate places like these in sunny California are less likely to suffer from rust problems https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/d/santa-rosa-ford-model-steel-spoke-wheels/7198671209.html

Welcome fellow 1925 Buick Master owner ! Marvel carburetor issues come up frequently, and there heave been several discussions on the Buick Pre-war forum on leaky needle valves. If you would start a new thread on Pre-war, all your Marvel questions will be answered. https://forums.aaca.org/forum/60-buick-pre-war/

Is there a machined casting inside of the stamped sheetmetal hub that can be removed ? If so, then you should consider replacing it with a machined hub with modern permanently lubricated bearings . Below is photo of the new hub I machined for my Buick and drawing of the machined part. Some of those dimensions may different for 1931, so use this drawing as reference. Kevin

That might be another period replacement 28-29 Ford radiator cap. Thread size is 2-1/4"-18, and measures 2.19 on the inside. Below is a comparison of original Ford nickeled brass cap and a replacement. If your gas filler neck is the same size & pitch, and you decide to use a Ford cap, a vent hole will have to be drilled and baffle plate added. Original Ford A parts are widely available on e-bay, so don't spend too much on one. Kevin

A guy from Portland has been tinkering with his 1972 Datsun homebuilt electric car since 1994, then racing it at the track where it beats the competing car by a large margin. Very impressive how it just leaps away from the starting line and the other car looks like its in slow motion. There are a lot of videos on youtube. search for "Plasmaboy white zombie" and watch a few. here is one of them. This is his website link to the first year version under history tab. http://www.plasmaboyracing.com/history/1994.php

Generator brush mounts. here is one on e-bay labeled for 1935-39 Chevrolet passenger car and truck models.

Phoenix is inside the evacuation area map https://jcgis.maps.arcgis.com/apps/webappviewer/index.html?id=3caa39804db54631a61007180d5ef415 According to local news : https://mailtribune.com/news/top-stories/evacuation-alerts-in-place-for-south-jackson-county "People who have evacuated from the Phoenix and Talent area should not return due to continued fire activity, the emergency center said." I grew up in the area and try to keep an eye on local events.

NOT MINE https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/denver-1918-contenetel-4-cylinder-engine/7177685137.html 1918 continental 4 cylinder engine - $175 1918 Continental 4 cylinder engine and transmission. Came from a 1918 Yellow cab taxi. No carburetor or magneto. Turns over with hand crank and has compression.

Bob's Automobilia has them. https://bobsautomobilia.com/engine/ Unidentified timing gears show up on e-bay frequently for much less, but you have to figure out if they are correct for Buick Master.

NOT MINE https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/arvada-1917-grant-six-roadster/7175154273.html 1917 Grant Six Roadster - $7,500 (Arvada) 1917 Grant Six roadster OHV straight 6 for sale. This is a two owner car and has been in the family since 1954. I have almost completed the ground up restoration, but I have lost the interest and motivation to complete it. The car was running and drivable when I started the project and I have all of the original parts to complete it. I have gone through and rebuilt the motor, running gear, wood wheels and have re-installed everything back on the frame (wheels have been removed for storage) including brand new custom made leaf springs. The frame has been media blasted and painted. The majority of the body work has been completed and primered. There is no rust anywhere on the car

Yes it is still available. sorry for the late response. I haven't checked this listing in a while. send me a private message if you are still interested. Kevin

I first tried using a MAPP gas torch to solder but it burned thru the screen. Then soldered the screen to the housing with that big old soldering iron and plumbers acid flux solder paste. A year later when the motor was finally ready to install the oil pump assembly, there were numerous larger holes in the screen which I assumed were the result of acid flux spots that did not get cleaned off. I removed and replaced the screen again using rosin core solder. Kevin

The quickest way to identify a Master from a Standard chassis is to look at the rear wheel hubs. Standard has a pattern of 12 bolts, and Master has 6 acorn nuts. If an engine were present, look for the location of coolant water return. Master has a manifold with 3 separate tubes exiting from top of the head, and Standard has a single tube at the front of the head. Very few parts interchange between Master and Standard. You don't want to end up with a garage full of heavy parts that won't fit your car. Also any listing with "NOT MINE" means I am not the owner and have no interest in the sale of the parts. Contact the owner using phone number provided or if the listing were newer you may have to follow the link to craigslist and contact the owner by e-mail.