Oregon Desert model 45

This mash up was on e-bay several years back.

Eaton Weatherhead part number 6100x6. Google this part number to find a chart listing full range of sizes and corresponding part numbers. Available online or in some auto parts stores.

Thanks Mark.

NOT MINE. CONTACT OWNER THRU CRAIGSLIST USING BELOW LINK https://houston.craigslist.org/atq/d/lyons-1928-chrysler-model-72-roadster/7065069709.html 1928 Chrysler model 72 Roadster - $3200 (Brenham ,TX)

What is a safe way to remove old finish from a wood steering wheel ? I have used the citrus paint remover gel on metal parts and it works great, but it always leaves a sticky gooey residue that has to be scrubbed off with water to get the part clean. Wetting that old wood to clean away the goo just does not seem like the best method to clean up. What other options are there ? First photo is the replacement wheel I acquired, which a 1926 or 27, and appears to have been refinished in recent decades. I tried wiping the old finish with lacquer thinner and it got a little sticky, but not much came off. It might be a polyurethane finish. I have spent several hours hand sanding the aluminum to remove the deep scratches, and its looking a lot better now. Second photo is the original 1925 wheel which I have repaired in the Frankenstein style with a wood rim my father made then left out in the rain for 15 years. I will keep this wheel as a backup. Design changes for 1926 included introduction of machine screws penetrating thru the wood rim into the ends of the spokes, and elimination of the 1-1/8" tapered lock bushing in the hub bore used in 1925. Kevin

Original 1920 Buick Reference for 6 cylinder models. Good condition with authentic greasy finger prints on a few pages (worst pages pictured below). One page is missing a corner. Also includes original tool checklist dated 7-14-19 for car serial number 553858 $35. free shipping within US.

The steel toggle handle from the brake lever failed to plate on the first attempt using the small power source. I tried it again using the battery charger and it worked this time. I was not paying attention to voltage/amp setting. The part was rusty and deeply pitted which cleaned up after soaking in the "cleaning" vinegar. Its rather strange how vinegar dissolves rust (and copper), yet is the same liquid used to make the electrolyte. Kevin

more photos

Springfield Auto Recyclers 750 S 28th St Springfield, OR 97477 541-747-9601 The following photos were taken last April when I visited, so some parts may have sold by now. There was a lot of early Dodge parts, a pile of 4 cylinder Chevy engine parts, Willys Overland, and a mix of other 20's parts.

The metal lathe I have is a South Bend 9A which was purchased by my grandfather after he rebuilt his workshop and was buying new machinery. I have already made so many parts for the Buick on that lathe: fan hub & shaft, shackle bolts, bushings, other odd bolts, etc. To complete the steering column, another bushing needs to be fabricated. The original column has what looks like water pump packing and a sheetmetal seal retainer at the upper end, just below the steering wheel, to act as lubricated bushing for the steering shaft. A new bushing made from UHMW plastic could be press fit into the stainless tube and serve the same purpose. Plus UHMW should stay stuck without backing out. I didn't have any on hand, but found an old kitchen cutting board with similar properties to UHMW. So I made a pair of bushings using the cutting board plastic, on grandpa's South Bend lathe. The steering wheel I bought for the Buick has deep grinding marks on the aluminium spokes, so they must have been in a hurry to get parts made and not waste time polishing. That wheel is going to look shabby next the highly polished column jacket, so now I have to figure out how to polish the aluminium without damaging the wood. Kevin

Another part that was originally nickel plated is the steering column jacket. The original had some dents, scrapes and pits, so I searched for a new tube to replace it, and found that stainless steel tubing was available in the same size (1.75 OD x .05 wall) for $60. After trimming the new tube to correct length, I discovered the lower end had to be turned down .010 to fit inside the steering gear box clamp. This would be easy to do on a lathe using emery cloth, but unfortunately the tube was too long for my Grizzly wood lathe. Plan B was to build a longer lathe using the old headstock & tailstock that were salvaged from my grandfathers lathe after his shop burned down years ago. The headstock already had new bearings and pulley, so I cobbled up this contraption using some old lumber and a motor. I made a friction chuck from a face plate and some wood, and bored a precise hole to snugly fit the tubing using the metal lathe. For the tailstock end I used a live center and some bearing races that filled up the gap inside the tube perfectly. Now the lower end could be turned down and the entire tube polished by wet sanding progressing from 240 to 400 to 600 grit. In the photo below, the original column tube is sitting below the new stainless tube. Kevin

That nickel can be wet sanded but its still pretty hard. Copper is easy to sand or polish, so that would be a good filler for small pits or imperfections. I spent a lot of time at the laundry sink scrubbing and cleaning parts prior to putting them in the plating bath. The only parts I polished using the buffing wheel are hood hold down hooks. Those bezels have too many edges that could get caught on the buffing wheel so I am not taking any chances with those.

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Several parts appeared to have a layer of copper under the old nickel plating. I am not sure if it was to improve the quality of the final coat of nickel or to help with plating adhesion issues. In a high volume commercial plating shop the electrolyte is circulated by a pump, and there will be nozzles which can be directed at inside corners and concave areas to get full plating coverage.

1920 Dodge windshield stanchion to top header clamps $40 for pair includes postage within US. Kevin

Winter cold weather and cold garages motivated me to finally start work on the small nickel plated trim parts for my Buick. After reviewing several Youtube videos on DIY nickel plating, I decided to use the nickel acetate process, which can be brewed up using distilled vinegar, salt, nickel metal, and cell phone charger. An aquarium bubbler provides agitatation for the solution. There are a lot of variables to the process which takes some trial and error to figure out too: electrolyte conductivity, voltage density, agitation, cleaning and preparation. Small parts with "points" attract too much nickel which can lead to flaky or lumpy plating. Side curtain socket heads had flaky build up when only 1 part was in the electrolyte, but when 2 were plated simultaneously, the plating quality was very good. Inside corners of bezels often had a smoky appearance. Back sides received no plating at all. Last photo is a concave reflector from the big Type C tail light which is made from a grey metal, (probably zink) and the only plating it attracted is a thin crescent around the rim; everything else in the center turned black from a reaction with the vinegar. I will have to make new reflectors from aluminum sheet. The (3) 1927-28 tail light bezels had cracks, and were in pretty sad shape when I got them. I straightened them and soldered .015 brass sheet over the cracks using lead free solder. Some of the literature online states that lead causes problems with nickel plating, so it was simple to avoid it by using new lead free solder. The cracks still show after replating, but you can't see them unless you look closely at the part. Kevin

While those rear springs certainly look like Buick cantilever springs, maybe missing a few leaves, the heavy steel bars bolted to the frame leads me to believe it was a home made tractor built from car parts. see red arrows in marked up pic below.

which maker used this style of bracket to fasten open car top header bow to windshield stanchion ?

NOT MINE https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/d/mesa-1934-chrysler-convt-rare/7057156940.html 1934 CHRYSLER CONVERTIBLE Coupe. CA series. 1 of 700 built according to Classic Car Database. Duel sidemounts, rumble seat. Motor and trans rebuilt by last owner and has never been started. Have boxes and boxes of parts. Headlights, spare tire covers, etc. To many cars, not enough time. cALL 480-363-888Six. Thanks Carl

Around 1969 or so that car was in a traveling exhibit inside of a truck trailer that toured the country. It was parked outside of the Sears at the old hometown shopping center, and my mother paid the 10 cents admission each so we could walk thru and see the car. I still remember all those bullet holes.

I have one with bakelite external "button" part broken off, but the internal parts appear to be in working order. Its still mounted in the aluminum hub part which originally had a protruding lever that is now broken off. If the internal button part can be removed from the hub, it may be possible to machine a new plastic button and adhesive bond to the brass contact disk at the top. Otherwise it will serve as pattern for fabricating a new button assembly. Just pay for postage and it's yours. Kevin

Which automaker used this style of hood latch hook ?

Original photo is on e-bay. What make and is this a factory body with turtle deck removed or something custom ?

I have a Type C light with 2 wrong bullet lenses. Its all apart now for repair work. Type C lights have 3 lights and conductors. What other equipment or switches would be added to the car's wiring to operate 2 additional lights ? was there an early turn signal switch accessory to activate the 2 outboard lights ? Kevin

One bulb in upper and one in lower with 2 conductors. I put a piece of paper inside in lieu of the reflector so it would photograph. Lower bulb illuminates the license plate and lower red lens, which must be the running light correct ? Upper bulb illuminates both center clear lens and upper red lens. If not a brake light, then what ? Kevin