viv w

Hello Sarah, welcome to the forum. I assume the car you bought is the sedan with Maroon body and black fenders, that was on ebay . The car has had a lot done to it and deserves to be finished off and enjoyed. The sad part about it, is the motor has to be removed and the crank shaft taken out , in order to remove the flywheel. The car was discussed on this forum in January, look up this previous discussion, 26 S70flywheel removal impacsys replied to impacsys's topic in Chrysler Products - General did you have to remove crank to removeflywheel? I don't think my 26Chrysler Six has a ring gear. it appears teeth are machined in toflywheel. January 7 You can try finding a ring gear and have a machine shop fit it for you, the other alternative is to get another flywheel. If you decide to go this route, then you will need to talk to a machine shop about fitting this flywheel to your crankshaft and have them balance it for you. Fixing the flywheel is not a small job and the reason the previous owner decided to sell the car, please don't be put off by the work involved, find people in your area that work on old cars and lean on them for help and advice. If you show a serious commitment to finishing off your car, you will be surprised at the help you will recieve. Wish I was closer. Good luck and best wishes from zimbabwe Viv.

Wow, looking good. So glad you have persevered with restoring the car, it is going to be a beauty.

Leo, These pictures (courtesy of the internet) are of 2 different 1927 Chrysler finer 70's, I would think your model 72 would be very similar. The 2 pictures below also from the nett are supposed to be a series 72 roadster. Hope these may help

Morning, Found these pictures courtesy of https://www.leftcoastclassics.com/1928-nash-328-landau/ lots more useful pictures if you look up this site. . Suggest also to ask on the general section of AACA or join the Nash car club of America. Nice car. Viv.

The car looks to be Nash. The dog bone radiator cap and pentagonal motormeter/temp guage are aftermarket, non factory parts.

I have had good results softening aluminum with a hot air paint stripping gun. Also works a treat, if used carefully, to heat up die cast pot metal if it is bent and needs straightening. An oldtimer friend of mine ,who was a sressed skin worker in aviation industry, also told me , use an oxy torch, first blacken the aluminum using just the acetylene, then heat it up with an oxy /acetylene flame until the black just starts to dissappear. at this point stop heating and it should be soft enough to bend.

Not familiar with Reo, but some manufacturers had a pin or hole on the hub/brake drum to help align the wheel, when bolting it on.

Sure looks like ford. Male thread should be about 3/4in and female end about 7/8in

1929 Chevrolet

The top right one looks to be 4 Cyl Chrysler or Plymouth from about 1926 to 1930

Dodge had a Ram mascot, think this is a Plymouth

There have been a few new guys recently , who are busy restoring pre 1929 cars, the following pages will help you all with how to adjust and operate "original" early Chrysler brake systems. Hope this is readable Viv.

To remove the horn button and horn rods from the column, you must first remove all the levers and the switch from the bottom of the column, then the horn button and lever assembly with tubes just pulls out the column. Take lots of pictures for reference before you take it apart

Your best source will be to get hold of a copy of the owners handbook, which has drawings and advice on adjustments. Attached is an example of the book, sorry I copied this from the nett so am unable to give you better images.

That part was used on a lot of other cars too, try looking at mid 30's Ford parts and also see if Wescotts auto restyling may make this part as parts of their latches.

It would help if you stated the type of car and its model ????????

Have you checked to see if the spare wheel will hold air. If you only want to move the car around, why buy a new tyre, or fix that one, if the spare is useable??

Leo, The back brakes are assembled exactly the same as the ones shown on your front back plates. The extra holes D and E are stamped at the factory and if you look carefully you will see that B can be mounted at D and C can be mounted at E, so that they ended up with left and right sides. The extra holes serve no purpose. There should be rubber dust boots on each end of the wheel cylinders. There should also be a small spiral spring that fits inside the brake band at B, this spring is fitted at the bottom of B and serves to push the brake band away from the drum. The bolt at B goes inside this spring and the spring is compressed when you tighten the bolt at B when doing brake adjustment. Viv.

Hi Jack, Sadly I live too far away, but I think the Chevy bumper is actually Chrysler. Looks identical to the ones fitted to my 1926 and 1928 Chryslers, even the centre bumper clamp is the right shape, try listing it in the Chrysler for sale section viv

Agree with Keiser, looks homebuilt, but possibly using an old Ford V8. The tail lights and windscreen frame appear to be from thirties Ford V8

Its listed on Ebay item 284034603130 right now, I'm sure it is the same one Viv

31 Chev had side lights on the crown of the front fenders and did not have wheels with tire retaining rings. If one looks carefully at these wheels , they have retaining rings. The hubcaps are not Chev but look I think like Willy's or even Overland. Car is most certainly from 1929 to 1931 era.

Interesting , I too await and see if anyone else knows. Viv

The parts book does not seem to show a blanking plate as you suggest, but does mention a thrust washer on some models. I'm still trying to get the pump off my G70 motor, so don't know if my motor is the same as yours. It is hard to see from your picture if there is a hole thru into the water jacket as shown in the above picture. If there is no hole at this point then it will definitely not have a blank off plate.

I also have a broken tappet on my 1928 model 62, my research in the pre 34 parts manual shows that virtually ALL the 6 cylinder Chryslers from 1925 thru to 1932 use the same tappet, the exception being the 4 cyl and imperial models. I have 2 projects I'm working on and I can confirm that the tappet on a 26 G70 is identical to the tappet on the 62. Tappets on this era of Chrysler appear to be prone to breaking and made of some sort of cast iron. I think one of the main reasons for them breaking is sticking valves. Viv.