viv w

If I were you, I would still try and connect with the guys in the Netherlands, and ask them for tons of pictures, inside, outside, underneath and in the engine bay. As they say a picture tells a thousand words. I save lots of pictures of cars from the nett, they are invaluable for references purposes.

Hi Again, Thanks for posting your pictures, I was assuming your doors were still wood framed. In your picture below, that triangular plate held on by 3 screws (with a handle on it) looks the same as ones fitted to a 1935 Ford sedan. Someone has cut a hole in the door to fit these to your car and the inner handle should be further back. I did a quick google search for images of your cars interior tonight, and we got lucky. Have a look at this https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1304832 site and look at the pictures of a car the same as yours that is posted for sale in October this year in the Netherlands. There is a picture showing the location of the door handle. I would recommend you contact the sellers and ask them for pictures of everything and anything you need to know. With luck they may even have pictures of the car before it was restored. If you decide to try and call the seller, bear in mind they are 6 hours ahead of the time in Toronto. Best regards Viv.

Nice project for someone. Headlights are from a model G70. It should have the ribbon style lights. The tail light is the correct ribbon type.

This is a picture of a 29 Chev door, the link between the door lock and door handle is a piece of roughly 1/16th in thick by 1/2 in wide piece of flat bar that has a 90 degree twist in the middle.

Hi Gunsmoke, The 1929 to I think 1932 Chev roadsters and touring cars used inner handles like these with the same type of mounting bracket and extension links. The bracket seen on the bottom handle screws under the wood on the top of the door. It had a thin piece of say 1/16" flat bar that went from the handle to the door lock. This flat bar slipped over the rivetted "stud" at the back end of the handle. Regards Viv.

Hi Mark, I've just done the top on my 35 Ford phaeton. It was also my first attempt and a big learning curve. I think you will find the top centre panel should be the same width from front to back and this is normally the same width as the top of the front windscreen posts. The sides are the hardest part as you have to allow for the fact that the inside line is not straight from front to back where it is sewn to the centre top deck, it actually bows and that is the tricky part. The rear panel is normally one piece from left to right. Have fun Viv

Hi Don, Thanks for your reply, but the Chrysler had external contracting brakes on the model 62 and I'm pretty sure the Plymouth that year had internal expanding brakes, I suspect the Chrysler and Plymouth axles and bearings will be different too. Viv

Thanks stakeside, Unfortunately a previous owner had the diff replaced with a 36 plymouth axle. When I bought the car it came with the remains of what I assume is the original axle, but the sideshafts were out and the axle sideshaft bearings were gone, so I have no sample to get the numbers from. This axle had also had water inside over the years and was rusted solid. I have so far soaked the "original" axle in water and have most of it in pieces, the gears will all clean up nicely but I'm still trying to unscrew the pinion housing to access the pinion bearings. Any help on the bearing numbers would be appreciated, so that I can check them all to make sure this is a series 62 axle. Thanks Regards Viv.

Hi Guys, Your two cars have different mounting brackets for the front bow to clamp to the windscreen posts. I am familiar with both types as I have a 26 and a 28. Both cars share the same "design" in principle. A 1927 model 50 I did, had remains of bits of the top material still attached to the original bows. This car had the plate type bracket as Mark's car shows. The G70 I have also has this type of brackets, which I will look for tomorrow to photograph, it had remains of the aluminium escutcheon, rivetted thru it , in the same fashion as the picture of gunsmokes. Now my 1928 Model 52 phaeton and model 62 roadster had the same cast brackets as shown in gunsmokes pictures. As far as my model 52 is concerned it had original "cotton" sleeves that were slid over the bows ,( my upholsterer cussed me for wanting them done as a sleeve, not tacked), There is a thin, maybe 3 ply wood filler that is covered in the same colour outside top material, that goes right across the car as shown in gunsmokes photo. This filler panel is nailed to the bottom of the front bow, then the material is pulled forwards and tacked to the front of the front bow, hope this makes sense. Also whilst you are doing this filler panel, note it has a flap that is part of the filler covering, this flap goes in front of the windscreen to stop rain and wind. I have edited gunsmokes picture below image below shows flap outside the screen Bow drill coverings and shows the top pads If you look carefully you will see the front filler panel above the windscreen this is a 27 finer 70, your 29 should look much the same. Note the gypsey curtain across the back bow and the rear curtain is tacked across the back at the top of the body, these tacks are then covered by hidem, lift the dot fasteners secure the sides to the body. These pics are courtesy of ones I've found on the net over the years Viv.

Sorry double posted

Hi everyone, does anyone have a list of bearing numbers for the front and rear wheel bearings and the differential pinion bearings please. TIA Regards Viv.

Looks newer than 60's with the wrap around ends, maybe something like MGB or MG midget

Yes it is Austin from around 1934 to 1936, but this design was also used on the bigger Austin's too, such as Austin 10 and 12 HP.

Leo, have a look into heavy duty, thick walled motor cycle tubes. I was looking last night and it appears they make a 5,20 thick walled, heavy duty tube with a centered stem. Perhaps there is a bigger version of motorbike tube? Do not buy the thin chinese type bike tubes. We have been using 4,10 x 18 thick walled, heavy duty motorbike tubes inside 450/500 x19 model A tires for some time with no problems so far. The only thing with motorbike tubes is the valve stems are thinner, so you have to get those plastic valve stem inserts/grommets to fill the valve stem holes in your rims. My Chrysler 62 roadster at present is shod with used 4,10 x 18 Knobbly offroad motorcycle tires with thick walled bike tubes, so that I can move the car around while working on it. I could probably drive it on these tires but would not go far or fast on them. They have been fitted purely as roller tires, and once I'm happy with repairs I will be looking for 525/550x18 tires, tubes and flaps. Regards Viv.

Looking good Mark. On the earlier Chryslers I have built, you could get your arm inside the flap and reach the bottom of the door. They did not appear to have a box or bag of any kind inside the door panel. I used mine for putting Jerseys, jackets, hats, odd tools and small spares , like fan belts, plugs, points etc. Just wrapped up tools in a bit of rag , so they don't rattle themselves and drive you crazy. Viv.

Hi Flivverking, Looking in the parts manual the G70 series Chrysler used 5 different part numbers for wheel cylinders. The serial number of your car PR069P leaves two different part numbers 71455 and 71456. The number 71456 says with plug, which I assume is the allan screw plug, seen in one of your pictures. Some of the cylinder numbers used on the later G70's series were also used on series 60, and on series 62 and 72, so it will need research to find the correct ones for your car. Please clean your wheel cylinders and master cylinder and see if these numbers are cast into the cylinders. The 4 cylinder models and imperials have totally different part numbers. Chrysler used external contracting brakes in 1928 cars, I think they went onto internal expanding brakes in 1929. I have looked at my early series G70 and can confirm the brake cylinders for 1925 B70 and early G70 series cars will not work for your car, they are totally different. Looking at the pictures of the Kissel brakes, I don't think those cylinders of Ron's will work on your car, they appear to mount differently. You advertised for one or four cylinders? have you lost or broken one cylinder? or are they all missing?? Regards Viv.

20 years ago in Zimbabwe, I watched live coverage on satelite TV of the towers collapsing . It will remain a moment in history that most people in the world will never forget. People from a wide number of countries lost their lives that day, many million more watched in horror the event as it happened. Our thoughts and prayers go out to all those that lost loved ones in this terrorist act. God bless you all. Viv.

Essex ?

Hi, I rebuilt 2 motors, one for a Chrysler model 50 and the other a model 52, which are basically the same as your model U. Both motors were rebuilt as original, with no modern rear main oil seals. My model 52 had over 20000 miles on it when I sold it, the rear main never leaked. As long as your main bearings are in good condition and have the reverse scroll in them, to feed oil back into the motor, there should be no problem. The only other reason a motor may leak oil at the rear main , is if there is a build up of crank case pressure from worn rings, or if the scoll in the rear main is missing or put in the wrong way. Why change something that worked 90 years ago. Viv.

You should not need a puller to take the front drum and hub off. A word of caution, when stripping your wheel cylinders, do NOT try and knock the pistons thru from one side to the other. Look at fig 26 above, there is a piston cup stop block anchored in the centre of the cylinder, it has 3 pins that locate into a groove in the centre of the cylinder and trying to press or hammer the piston thru will destroy your wheel cylinders. viv

Only 6414 Chrysler 65 roadsters were made in 1929. It is generally assumed roughly 10% of convertibles survive, so the chances of finding another one are slim but not impossible.

How bad is your bad body, show some pictures. To find a good roadster body will be tough, you may have to repair the one you have

Hi Spalchanes, Finding one of those switches in any condition will be challenging. I'm assuming your switch is complete but jammed up solid, looking at the marks on the lever, where you have tried moving it. The switch part is probably useable, but the diecast lever has swollen into the brass bushing that it should rotate inside and I doubt you will be able to free it. Start by opening the switch from behind, the fibre switch backing is crimped into place, use a pair of wire cutters or pliers to gently ease these tabs up just enough to get the back of the switch off. Then take a couple of pictures to remind you how it looks inside (important to make sure it goes back in the right place). Next remove the screw holding the inside contactor plate to the switch lever and lift out the contactor plate. I think at this stage you will find the switch lever jammed solid. Be warned that trying to move it or even drift it out with a pin punch, WILL result in breaking the front glass lens. The next thing to do is clamp the lever in a hand vice to stop it rotating and very carefully drill the handle out from behind, using sharp drills and patience. Make sure the metal you are drilling remains cool, as any heat expansion might crack the glass lens. Now you will need to find or make a replacement lever. Hopefully you still have the original choke lever on the other side of your dash. You will have to remove it, as it is exactly the same lever. The choke lever can be used as a pattern to have one made either by a foundry that does sand casting or perhaps someone with a 3D printer can print one for you. hope this helps, best regards Viv.

Leo, The pictures of Tex 49 that were on ebay showed remains remains of a car with no body or rear fenders. Viv