viv w

Looking good, well done on your restoration so far. Looking at your photo's, with the double bead across the doors, I would say this car most likely never had the Tiffany parking lights. If it was my car I would not fit the side parking lights. Keep the car original, as it came from the factory

Possibly from a 1929/30 Essex

Aunty norm is asking about the parking lamps made by Tiffany that were on the side of the car, the ones that had the red jewel facing rear and white jewel facing forwards. Interesting info on the cowl lights though.

I had a badly dented breather tube on my Nash, I got the dents out by using my set of socket spanners. Fit the socket backwards onto a suitable extension and then fit the back end of the socket inside your dented pipe. Start with a socket that is smaller than the ID of the pipe, insert it inside the pipe and tap around the dent from the outside. Use progressively bigger sockets inside the pipe until the dent has gone.

George Damanns book "70 years of Chrysler" shows 2 pictures of 70 series roadsters, the one has the boxed color insert on the door and has no parking light, the other picture shows a body with a single belt line molding and a side parking light. The pre 34 Chrysler parts list, shows the G series (70) roadsters and touring cars had parking lights. By 1928 a lot of the Chrysler"s no longer had these parking lights, so I think it would be fair to assume that the Finer 70's may have come from the factory either with, or without these parking lights. Viv.

Some of the earlier Chryslers left the factory without bumpers, as these were an optional extra. It is possible that this bumper clamp was for an aftermarket bumper. Not one I have seen before.

PM sent

Using masking tape to split your colors is fine, but rub the tape with your finger nails to ensure it sticks firmly, to avoid the second color running under the tape. I have also found, that if you quickly and carefully remove the masking tape, as soon as you have finished painting your second color and before the paint has time to dry, this will leave a cleaner edge. If you let the second color dry and then try taking the masking tape off, it may flake or lift the edge of your second color.

Hi, this was posted by Hudsy Wudsy on the 4th of July, you will have to contact him for details Viv. Follow 0 '26 Chrysler Motor and Buzz Saw By Hudsy Wudsy, July 4 in Chrysler Products - Buy/Sell for sale Rate this topic Reply to this topic Start new topic Hudsy Wudsy 1k+ Senior Member Members 465 2,646 posts Location: Minneapolis Report post Posted July 4 Here's a link to a '26 Chrysler motor and buzz saw combo that's for sale on C/L in WI:

I think this could be aftermarket. I had a virtually identical design one fitted on a scrap 1927 Chrysler 50 that I recovered. Only difference was mine had a proper Chrysler badge centre clamp and the 2 clamps to mount it to the car were different. The lot of the Chrysler's of this era came from the factory without bumpers as standard, but could be ordered as an extra cost option and I guess the aftermarket ones may have been cheaper. Viv.

Got this picture off the nett some time ago, it may help you, floors are all wrong in this picture. I can load a lot of pictures of the door and pillar wood on my 25/6 touring body if you find nothing else Viv.

They are corrugated drive wire wheels made by the buffalo wire wheel company

You have to add or subtract shims until there is 0,002 to 0,003 of an inch end play on the shaft, with the 6 retainer bolts firmly tightened. The bearings should be packed with good quality wheel bearing grease. In gunsmokes case, where the backing plate and diff have been sandblasted, I recommend removing the shafts completely from the axle, clean the bearings thoroughly and repack them with grease, also remove the grease nipple fittings from the housing and thoroughly clean them. The sand is shot under high pressure and may well have gone thru the grease nipples and any seals on the axle, pinion included and will act as a nice grinding compound if not cleaned properly. Viv.

Thanks Flivverking, I appreciate the advice and your interest. I am well aware of doing final assembly and fitting while having it all bolted to the frame. I made the mistake with a model 52 of doing it off the frame and nothing fitted or lined up, when it came to assembly. At the moment, with this lockdown, my frame is at the sandblasters, so busy making up what I can, following the remaining original wood. I have reached the point where I can go no further, until I can start assembly on the frame. Still looking for any pictures or measurements of the seat frame wood. If I cant find info soon, then I will just go by instinct and make something up. I think this body is possibly by Fisher and design must be pretty similar to a 29 Chevy phaeton I did a couple of years go. Take care Viv.

Have a look under Parts for sale and the Chrysler 72 parts car for sale and you will see who now owns the Zerega's Chrysler.

Definitely not 1934 to 1936 Auburn. The Auburn block has the name Lycoming cast into the side in raised lettering. The Auburn head has 3 bolts holding the water outlet.

If you look carefully there are 6 holes in the stub axle, where brake back plates were bolted. The majority of the rim clamps appear to be motor wheel, The axle itself is very straight which is unusual, and the wheels only have 10 spokes, those few things may help to ID this axle

Hi JO BO, pm sent please respond, thanks.

It sure looks like a steering wheel centre, that fits a wooden spoke steering wheel, probably late 20's. don't know what make.

34 Chev rear bumper

STRANGE EBAY LISTING, READ THIS. Hi all, This advert below is posted in General discussions today. It is also listed for sale on EBAY item 373079686640, with pictures, but I find it very strange that you can list a complete rolling frame on ebay ,and state, let me know what parts you want and they will then be listed again seperately. Does EBAY allow this ?? AACA GENERAL DISCUSSION Parts For Sale 1928 Chrysler Type 72 Parting out chassis 1928 Chrysler Type 72 Parting out chassis By Tex 49, 2 hours ago in Parts For Sale for sale Reply to this topic Start new topic Tex 49 Newbie Members 0 1 post Report post Posted 2 hours ago 1928 Chrysler Type 72 Roadster Parting out. No body parts available. Parts Available include: Complete frame Frame cover Steering wheel Steering Box Steering column Steering mount Steering Front fenders with mounting brackets (5 out of 10) Rear fenders with mounting brackets (6 out of 10) Running boards (2 out of 10) Carburetor Starter Stewart Vacuum fuel system Red Head 6 cylinder Motor (frozen) Transmission (? out of 10) Brake hydraulics Gas tank Wire wheels Brakes Suspension Drive shaft Everything is rusty, but only a few holes. Let me know about parts you may need and I will let you know. Quote

This is also posted on ebay item 373079686640 under nsxgeezer, with some pictures. I don't know how you can list your item on ebay asking guys to contact you with regards to the item you want, seems strange, check it out.

I can't help with an axle, but you need to specify which model you have, as not all 1928 models are the same.

Thanks NZcarnerd, some interesting stuff. I will look at my frame for the numbers. The body came from Sydney Australia, I bought it to put on my G70 frame (that had no body at all) and it fits quite well. In the early days I think a lot of the British colonies bought a lot from Canada, such as most Fords came from there, however, most of the pre war Chrysler cars here came from Detroit USA.

These early Chrysler"s do vary a lot and the passage of time does not help either, as cars have been modified and upgraded over the last 90 years. Leomara, as a suggestion, there have been a few posts in recent months, from a few model 72 owners, wanting information on the top frames and bows. If you search back a few pages, it might be worth your while sending a few private messages to these guys asking for some pictures or advice. You may be able to help each other out with information. Viv