pont35cpe

I`m receiving PMs from a woman in Missouri, going by Squier here on the forum. She joined about an hour ago. This is her email address jesusluvsyou0@gmail.com

Gary, thanks for looking. I don`t think I`ve seen one where the screw is located on the bottom side. Tom

Tim, glad to be of help.. I did the torque ball on my `36 40 series, it was also too tight when I put the neoprene gasket in. I then shimmed it to where it`s snug and I can move it by hand, I did grease it up. I don`t have my car up and running yet to see if it is sealed or leaking. Tom

Gary here is a picture of my right side one, notice how tilted the mount side is compared to the sedan.

Billy, after reading your story this morning, fixing this little light socket is nothing compared to what you`ve been thru the past ten years. Great job on everything.

On mine I found it easier to remove the bulb from its socket first, then I`ve always used a sacrificial small screw driver that I grind to a thin point to where I can get it wedged in between the electrical socket and the holder to slightly spread the slot where the little nubbies slip into, and it will twist and come right out. Also the electrical piece is made to fit in the holder one way only, so the brake and tail light elements don`t get cross wired. Good Luck..

Tim, is this what you need? I`m not sure if for the small or large series. Ebay itemhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-1934-1938-Universal-Joint-Torque-Ball-And-Torque-Ball-Retainer-Nos/182384979915?hash=item2a76fdefcb:g:AB8AAOSw44BYJQDF

1941 Pontiac uses the same type bulb socket, bulb twists in the inner end, and the electrical part twists in the outer end. With mine, wires had deteriorated also, the little springs were good, using a soldering iron I melted the old contact, removed the old wire(the furrel/sleeve and springs don`t come out) slipped the new wire in place protruding past the end of the furrel/sleeve about an eight of an inch, flared the protruding end of the wire and re-solder. Are your springs good, not rusted and broken? If so, you can re-wire yours, it is rather simple. Attached is a picture.

Gary, no it`s the square type, I have a right side one. L-37 is the 8cyl cars, F-37 is the 6cyl cars, they have the round ones. It took me awhile to know the difference, I can pick them out at a distance now, different tail-lights and different grilles. I`ve checked all the salvage yards. I appreciate the reply.. Tom

Part #920777

Part #920777

My book says Chevrolet 1941 AH passenger-special De Luxe and 1941 AG passenger sedan delivery-Master De Luxe

Pagett, where is this "X code" located? Thank you, Tom

PM sent..

I`ve always used wd-40 to find a vacuum leak. With engine idling(with a vac leak engine runs ruff)spray wd-40 where intake bolts to head and around base of carb., spray each place one at a time, if the engine smoothes out for a few seconds that`s where the leaks is..

Picture is not so clear but looks a little like `41 Pontiac headlight doors, part #5931521

"Remember now, you were driving"

John, sending you an ad Dallas Tx. C/L. Ad is for 455 +.030 forged pistons, also in the ad is a Romac billet harmonic balancer new in box with bolt, not OEM. May not be what you want. https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/d/irving-buick-over-forged-pistons-speed/6840540322.html

BINGO!!

The open drive-line..

Lamar, another auto related site just west of Amarillo on Rt 66 is "Cadillac Ranch", ten half buried Cadillacs(`49-`63)nose first..

Tom, from what I`ve learned is the one on the left is the "city" one, and there is what they called the "country" one(or heavy-duty)which is an oil-bath. My `36 40series has one like yours, which I think is original to the car, both my radiator support rods are straight. I do have the oil-bath type also, I bought it from a guy parting out a `36 40series. Someone had changed the carb(put a carter in place of the stromberg)and hammered a spot on the underside for clearance so it would fit on the carter. I noticed the throw-out bearing and hub lying there. Bearing is easy to find, the hub it goes on not easy to find. There is a return spring that connects to the throw-out and the front of the trans. Most people destroy this spring when removing the transmission. FYI when removing the trans, first remove the bell-housing louvered vent(has the dripper tube) reach in and disconnect the spring. Attached is picture of oil bath type.

Damn thieves, they should have their twig and berries removed along with their hands. Orders for stereo equipment were placed while we were on line in the Tonkin Gulf, when we docked at Yokouska there were bob-tail trucks lined up as far as you could see, trucks were unloaded, everything stacked in the aft hanger bay. I got my stuff and went to the base post office and sent them home via SAM(space available mail). I was discharged 4mo later and was home a month before items started showing up over a ten day period. I got 4 speakers(2 pioneer/2 Akai)all 100 watt, 2 amps, a reverb, and a reel to reel with 8 track in the side. One amp and speakers in the shop and everything else in the living room. It can get loud around here..

Terry, the Pate Meet is so big and spread out, it sure would be nice if they would have a specific area for Pre-War vendors.. Maybe someone should make a suggestion to who is in charge.. Just a thought..

Lamar, you blew me away.. And the song fits right in with firing up the Buick. Chuck Berry did the Duck Walk and Mick does the Rooster Strut. I bought my 99A`s in Yokouska, Japan in 1970, and still as clear as can be, no distortion at any level. I appreciate the reply..