AussieTim

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  1. This is how I solved the problem of aligning the rear leaf springs to the axle housing - I made a lever that bolted to the rear shackle. This enabled me to adjust the spring position forwards or backwards while raising the spring to meet the axle housing. The trolley jack obviously could also move forwards and backwards with the spring movement. Tim
  2. Hi Jim, Thank you - that's very helpful. Regards, Tim
  3. Hi Jim, I'm very sorry - I only just saw your reply. Thank you so much for the offer, however, I have bought the torque ball on E-bay. Regards, Tim
  4. Hello Gents, The clutch replacement project continues albeit slowly. Weeks of seemingly no progress are the result of decrudding, degreasing and repainting many, many parts that have 80+ years of grease and road dirt build-up. Also the clutch pressure plate I bought was for the earlier carbon block release mechanism whereas my Buick has the later bearing mechanism. I ended up building one good one out of two. Pics of the work-in-progress attached. I have run into a problem with the realignment of the rear springs to the differential housing. When I jack the springs up to the diff housing, the pin is not in alignment. I've noticed that unlike with a Hotchkiss system, with the torque tube system both fore and aft shackles can pivot. This seems to introduce a lot of variability in where the spring can locate. I figure the fore shackle should pivot forwards and the aft shackle rearwards, however, this seems difficult to make happen, and even when I managed to do so, the alignment still can be 1/2" out. Is there a trick to this or something I am missing ? Many thanks, Tim
  5. Greg, I have the radiator shell off my 1935 Series 40 at the moment so snapped some photos for you. My car also does not have any braces from the firewall to the fender tops - only the rods to the top of the radiator shell. Hope that helps. Regards, Tim
  6. All, I am trying to find replacement bushings for the rear shock absorber links and stabilizer bar links. These are the bushings that clamp the link rods to the rear spring U-bolt plate. Does anyone know where to buy these or if the bushings from another make or model year will interchange ? This is for a 1935 Buick Series 40. I have found these but I am not 100% convinced they are right for my car http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=3694 Thanks so much. Regards, Tim
  7. Hi Tom, Thank you again for sharing your experience. It's good to know I am not alone in finding things that don't seem quite right. Regards, Tim
  8. Hi pont35cpe Thank you for posting that link. I had missed that one. The outer retainer is a little differently shaped, however, the ball itself looks the same. I have gone ahead and purchased it. Thanks again.
  9. Hi All, I am in the process of resealing the gearbox in my Australian 1935 Buick Series 40. I have a question regarding the torque ball. When I disassembled it, the ball and retainer surfaces were somewhat pitted and scored, presumably because the old seal was allowing in water and dirt. Also the gearbox had no oil in it and so appears to have been running dry for a long time. I polished the surfaces with wet and dry paper to try to smooth them out a bit. I then attempted to set up the torque ball preload with a shim kit purchased online. Unfortunately, even with no shim between the inner and outer retainer , the torque ball had little resistance to moving. The kit advised that there should be moderate resistance. I don't seem to be able to find any replacement parts or information online about what to do if the torque ball is too loose even with no shim. So I reassembled it with no shim, figuring this is the best preload I am going to get. On this final reassembly, I included the neoprene oil seal, as instructed in the kit. Now the torque ball is so tight that I can't move it even with a 6" pipe inserted in the U-joint shaft. Questions: 1. Is there anything better I can do regarding the pitted/scored rubbing surfaces ? 2. Is assembling it with no shim the best option to get close to the right amount of preload ? 3. How tight should the torque ball be once assembled with the oil seal in place ? Thanks so much for your time reading this. I value any and all feedback. Kind regards, Tim
  10. Hi Paul, Thank you for your post. I am not a member of the NSW Buick Club. I've just found the website which I will have a look at. Thank you also for pointing me to the E-magazine. Regards, Tim
  11. Hi Ray, Thanks for your post. I am in the Ryde area. I would really appreciate if there is anything I can learn from your experience removing the gearbox and clutch. Regards, Tim
  12. 50jetback and Tinindian - Thank you both for your replies. Sounds as though removing the rear end isn't as scary as it seems. This is my first time with a torque tube driveline so it is a learning experience and I want to do the job myself. 50jetback - I am in the Sydney area. It looks as though you are in WA ? Regards, Tim
  13. Hello All, My 1935 Buick needs a clutch replacement. It seems I have two options to get to the clutch: 1. Remove the torque tube and rear axle assembly, then the transmission, or 2. Remove the engine. Option 2 seems more straightforward and less problematic. Do any of you have experience or advice on this ? Thanks so much. Tim
  14. Ken - thank you for the reminder about the asbestos complication. That is definitely an important consideration. Tim
  15. Bob - thank you for your reply. I had read that soft linings are better with mechanical brakes and the car isn't high mileage so I'm not worried about faster wear. I also rather like the idea of learning the art of relining brake shoes. Thank you again. Tim