Jump to content

AussieTim

Members
  • Posts

    27
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

AussieTim's Achievements

  • Collaborator

Recent Badges

1

Reputation

  1. Thanks again @Rock10and @1939_Buick. I can see that it would be very easy to damage it, especially as it is likely to be corroded. The reason for my question is that i want to fix the fuel gauge which has not worked since i have owned the car. It always shows empty. I tested the rest of the circuit and it looks OK (gives about 0 to 30 ohms of resistance at the gauge depending on fuel level). I then found that the positive power wire had been disconnected at the gauge at some point in the car's past. However, reconnecting it did not bring the gauge to life. I'm hoping that the needle is just stuck due to not having moved for many, many years. Otherwise perhaps there is an open circuit somewhere inside the gauge.
  2. Thank you @Rock10. That's very helpful. Do I need to lower the coolant level before removing the capillary tube fitting from the engine ?
  3. Hi All, Just after some advice on removing the instrument cluster from my 1935 Buick Series 40: 1) The temperature gauge has a capillary tube connecting it to a bulb in the engine water jacket. Can the capillary tube be removed from the back of the gauge or does the gauge need to be removed with the entire capillary tube and bulb attached ? 2) The oil pressure gauge looks as though it has a tube nut on the back and a fine copper tube connecting it to the engine oil system. Can I just undo the tube nut and pull the tube out of the back of the gauge ? Many thanks, Tim
  4. Hi Greg, This doesn't answer your question but my trunk lid does the same thing. Must be common "feature" of these bodies. I haven't had a chance to investigate the cause of mine. Regards, Tim
  5. Greg, Here are some photos of my 1935 Series 40 with the hard line from the pump to the carburetor. Regards, Tim
  6. Hi Greg, Thank you so much for the pictures ! They are extremely helpful to me - to see what the original running boards look like, the dimensions, and especially the underside view. I can see that the "mushroom" shaped tabs would locate in the keyhole shaped holes I have in the body sheet metal. Presumably they are then twisted or some kind of clip pulls everything snug. You are lucky to have those original boards intact. Thanks again. Much appreciated. Regards, Tim
  7. Hello All, Trying to figure out how to put my 1935 Buick Series 40 running boards back to original. All I have is the original body sheet metal (not in great condition but repairable) and another non-original sheet metal plate that has been bolted over the top of it. I understand the original rubber mats were bonded to a steel backing plate. This was then attached to the body sheet metal that I have. 1. How were the original running boards attached to the body (there are key-shaped holes in the sheet metal but not sure what type of fastener was used) ? 2. How much of the body sheet metal did the running board rubber cover (i.e. from the front fender join to the rear, and from the bottom of the door to the outer lip of the curve ? 3. Any recommendation on where to get the running board covers remade ? Thanks so much for everyone's advice. Tim
  8. Hi Greg, That's unfortunate that your latches got messed up by the plater. I always feel disappointed when I can't reuse an original part. Both trunk latches on mine were broken when I acquired it. I bought a replacement set from this business. Wickedly expensive but I was very happy with the quality. I haven't installed them on the car yet, though. https://www.1933buickregistry.com/products/19341935-trunk-latch-bronze-b412-chrome-c412
  9. Hi Greg, Thanks for your reply. I had considered doing it that way but I have no idea if it is correct/original or not. As it seems to be the only workable option I will probably do likewise. Regards, Tim
  10. Gary, Greg - Thank you so much for the photos and info. That's very helpful. Gary - My throttle linkage does not have a clip on it. It's possible it has been removed though. Also the crank pivot assembly on the firewall looks a little different from the 35. You have a beautifully restored engine bay too ! Greg - It looks as though on your car the lower end of the spring is hooked through the casting hole in the engine block skirt. Is that correct ? Thanks again to both of you. Tim
  11. Hello All, I am trying to determine where the throttle return spring should be located on my 1935 Series 40. When I bought the car it was located horizontally above the manifold and connected to the throttle shaft crank. However, it did not look right. I have found a spot on the pedal linkage on the left-hand side firewall which looks to be where the upper end of the spring should hook in, however, there is nowhere below this for the bracket to bolt on. Can anyone please advise or provide a photo ? Many thanks, Tim
  12. This is how I solved the problem of aligning the rear leaf springs to the axle housing - I made a lever that bolted to the rear shackle. This enabled me to adjust the spring position forwards or backwards while raising the spring to meet the axle housing. The trolley jack obviously could also move forwards and backwards with the spring movement. Tim
  13. Hi Jim, Thank you - that's very helpful. Regards, Tim
  14. Hi Jim, I'm very sorry - I only just saw your reply. Thank you so much for the offer, however, I have bought the torque ball on E-bay. Regards, Tim
  15. Hello Gents, The clutch replacement project continues albeit slowly. Weeks of seemingly no progress are the result of decrudding, degreasing and repainting many, many parts that have 80+ years of grease and road dirt build-up. Also the clutch pressure plate I bought was for the earlier carbon block release mechanism whereas my Buick has the later bearing mechanism. I ended up building one good one out of two. Pics of the work-in-progress attached. I have run into a problem with the realignment of the rear springs to the differential housing. When I jack the springs up to the diff housing, the pin is not in alignment. I've noticed that unlike with a Hotchkiss system, with the torque tube system both fore and aft shackles can pivot. This seems to introduce a lot of variability in where the spring can locate. I figure the fore shackle should pivot forwards and the aft shackle rearwards, however, this seems difficult to make happen, and even when I managed to do so, the alignment still can be 1/2" out. Is there a trick to this or something I am missing ? Many thanks, Tim
×
×
  • Create New...