trini

To check to see if water is getting into the engine oil take a few ounces from the sump, put on a tin sheet and heat underneath with a torch. The water will pop under heat. If that is the case the problem could be a leaking head gasket or a cracked head . Read up on Rusty-OToole.

Breather tubes can get plugged up too and make the smoking worse. The reading on the odometer may not be accurate, most likely more than it says. Given that the engine sat for a long time it is most likely stuck rings and not so much worn guides. Sometimes by removing one quart of oil from the sump and replacing with a quart of transmission fluid and run engine , may be for a fifty miles helps to dislodge the rings. Also idle engine at about 1000 R.P.M while feeding transmission oil through the carburetor works. The spark plugs will give a good indication of the condition of the engine. If all fails tear the engine apart and do a complete rebuild. Do not forget to look for a reputable rebuilder.

Good morning, Graham man. Is there any possibility of selling me a split rim for a Graham Paige ? If I am not mistaken it is the same size for the 28 Dodge Brothers Senior . !9 inch wood wheel . The width is 41/2 inches. I would appreciate it. About you radiator problem. You need a large capacity rad. At least 4 tubes. These flat heads runs at high temperatures and it needs cooling . It is cheaper to replace the radiator than the engine. The rad man who rejected your rad because you cut flaps on the tank is not being truthful. The flap can be silver soldered. There are tube manufactures who can use your old tank and make a new core to fit the header. The only difference will the shape of the tubes and fins. Some of these guys advertise in the Hemmings Classic Car magazines Forget about the aluminun made in China garbage.

Can you explain if the rim is collapsible or the tyre is mounted on the rim and a locking ring is mounted on the outside to keep the tyre in ? Similar rings were used on heavy duty transport vehicles . It now illegal to use them in Canada. If you have this style of assembly make sure the ring is seated properly. If it is a collapsible rim, the one that use a clamp to collapse it, installing the flapper , tube and tyre, it is a tricky operation. Requires lots of patience

14 AWG is normal size for the coil to distributor . 12 AWG is a bit of overkill. Generator output wire should be 12 AWG.

There are some parts you might be able to sell. The rest is for the dump. Do not waste time trying to restore that your self.

Thank you very much, Restoration supply has refills @50 dollars but for the larger Motor Meter only. I can try and remove the insert on my 3 inch motor meter but where can I buy a refill ? The next move is to get a good used large housing with a bad insert and get a new refil from Restoration Supply.

On Ebay there is a motor meter for sale, price 110 dollars. The description says it fits D B Senior from the years 1923, 1924, 1925, 1926, and 1927. From what I know the D B Senior was made only in 1928. I stand corrected. What is the correct size of the Moto Meter for the 1928 Senior ? This Motor I have is 3 inches in diameter and the stem fits in the hole of the dog bone rad cap

According to the AACA Antique bi-monthly magazine that is a wheel cover, not a hubcap. Hubcaps are the ones screwed on like on pre-1930 cars to keep the grease in.

The pictures I emailed to Keiser 31 has returned . Address changed. At the back where the hole is there is the Dodge Brothers Logo. On the face there are a few instructions and parallel lines. There are no silver ring , no barley surround. Just plain.

No, It is not like that. I sent 2 pictures to Keiser 31 and asked him to upload them on this column for me. I do not know how to upload pictures on this column as yet. Cheers.

Hans 1, you are right on the button. The washer was inserted and the "pipe" is squeezed inwards (swaged). I will try using a dremel tool with a small file. It will take lots of patience. Once I get the washer removed I will drill out the plaster seal. There is a piece of plastic at the back. These plastic s can be found in common packaging used for house door locks and a host of articles , Use some crazy glue to stick it. Thank you Hans 1. for your advice.

I have a motor meter from a D. B. but it is 3 inches in diameter. It may be from a different model, not from my 28 Senior, Restoration Supply has refill for the 3 and 3/8 at 45 dollars. Is the senior motor meter 3 and 3/8 ? What I have does not look like it is made of white metal, The washer nor the housing will not drill out, too hard. I tried putting in it in the fridge, in ice and tapping it on the tyre, but no luck .Any Ideas ?

I have a 28 Senior 6 and that is the correct emblem. mine in beautiful condition. keiser 31 is right. Not many were made

If yours is made with material like the distributor cap , the chances are that there may be a tiny crack somewhere in the material near a terminal. When the weatheris damp current leaksto ground. Try cranking when it is dark. Have someone look while cranking for streaks of fire. Fords of the late 1960 was famous for cracked caps when it rained overnight.. Worth a look. Harry

carhartley has a good idea, These signals switches are available from Restoration Supply in California. They also carry these modern bulbs in 6 volt LEDs. You can fabricate brackets, chrome them and clamp on to bumpers Do not cut into your original harness. Instead make a separate circuit , with the appropriate size fuse and wire the type of signal switch in carhartely photo . Safety is a major concern. Harry

It is incorrect to say that the 1928 Dodge is all steel. The inner panels of the rear side windows are all wood, The frame for the tub is all wood and has curves that must be cut accurately, The back window frame is all wood but the stamping of the back window is such that it is possible to follow the outline and cut the wood accordingly. The top rails are wood and has a compound bend. Further up there are 2 (one on each side ) also compound bends for nailing the canvass. The rear cross piece is curved at both ends and must sit on the rails. The front piece top of the wind shield is the worst. It has compound shape I am spending months trying to make these pieces not to mention how many pieces spoilt. One thing I discovered is the wood frame was erected and then the sheet metal installed. There are torch burns on the wood in spots by welding the sheet metal. Shaping the wood pieces costing me months and months . It must be done correctly if not nothing else will fit. I will never attempt another one. There is a wood frame shaped like a ladder that must be bolted to the metal chassis on top of which the wood floor is mounted The logo on the rad is octagonal and with the words "senior" I wish I knew how to send pictures on this forum of my project

Old cast iron cylinders are prone to wear. Best bet take it to a reputable rebuilder and have it re sleeved to original size.They use stainless sleeve. These guys knows where to find kits. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. Cheers trini

Hi Taylormade, there seems to be quite a bit of room in there to work. What I would do is to use a rotary tool and clean, shine the hole . There are tiny torches on the market you can use to solder the hole . Use something as a heat shield to protect vulnerable areas. Do it right the first time . These metal parts pits from the inside and given the age of the components it is likely so. The water jacket on my 6 cylinder looks beautiful from the outside but inside there were numerous pits. I cleaned out the pits and soldered the holes from the inside.

Thank you very much for your advice, fellows. It feels good to know there are fellow members who are ready to help. The original color is a very dark green. with all the moss on it. The code will help. I have to get used to the seat because I would like to keep the car all original or close to it. The coil springs are rusted and the horse hair padding are deteriorated in the front seat so I am planning to use foam. It is in pieces at present so that is the reason why I asked advice on modification. The rear seat assembly springs are fine. Just needs recovering . Taylormade, you have some beautiful pictures here. Thank you. I had this car, 1928 Dodge Senior in pieces and I am on the way back up. Hanging the doors are a challenge. The engine runs like new. I like this car because it has wood spokes and hydraulic brakes. A well designs car. easy to work on. Unfortunately I have no one to help me and I am doing it all alone at my own pace. Some times I wish I had more arms but I am doing fine. The wife does not know the difference between a screwdriver and a spanner, so there goes any help. I am 82 years old and working on this car has me physically fit and supple, bending ,twisting, climbing and lying on the creeper and getting up as any 70 year old. there are pieces or strips of something like Bristol board between the sheet metal and wood in places, I assume it is used as anti squeak. Sourcing this is material is proving difficult. Thank you guys, have a nice day.

Thank you, M-mman, You understand my problem. The backrest is shaped with sheet metal, curving inwards towards the front like a " C ", The top of the backrest is screwed on to the center door jamb while the lower portion is screwed to the back of the box. Flip the seat up and there is the battery and a sheet metal tool box underneath. I took the upholstery apart, lots of horse hair padding and rusty and out off shape springs. I think I will discard the springs and use foam but with the original style covers. Now, since I have that in mind It might be easy to re design the box , eliminate the tool box and install a pair of adjustable seats. What you say s good advice. I will try and get used to it if I have to. If I use foam on the seat it will be much lighter to flip up to check the battery. I might be able to narrow the seat a little since I have everything apart. In as much I would like to keep the car looking like original the front seat is the only thing , if at all, I will have to modify. I will also install a diode in line with the generator output wire . I would still like to know the paint code. Thank you and have a good day.

This question must have been posed many times but I am not able to find it. WHAT IS THE ORIGINAL PAINT CODE OR COLOUR OF 1928 DODGE BROTHERS ?. The ends of the front seat of the 28 4 door sedan is curved towards the front. The back rest frame is made of steel sheet. The seat is very high and tight to get in and out behind the steering wheel. Unless I am wearing a size 4 shoes I must twist my feet sideways to get in and out. Have anyone modified the seat and backrest. Is it possible to replace the seat assembly with 2 individual adjustable seat ? I need some advice please. Thank you. trini

I would like to give it a shot. Will you please contact me or send me your email, please ? Harry hsahu8034@gmail.com or 905 889 021. Cheers.

Hi Richard, My windscreen glass frame on my 28 D.B. Senior was mostly rotted out. A company from , I think, somewhere in Pensylvania made a new one for me. Making windscreen frames is their business. They will chrome it for you if desired. I may have the address somewhere in my laptop. I have to look for it. A good used one is fine and a first choice

I love to read to read your comments. It is a pleasure. What a great gang. "typo" it should be 14 AWG. My observation is 16 AWG is used mostly in 12 volts system. I am subject to correction. In my 2017 Colorado the wires are so thin I cannot even see them. Dodge Brothers used 12 volts system around 1917 or thereby with the original wire being 14 AWG. Yes RustyOtool. you are right if everything is correct there should no problem. Because of low voltage and high current , if everything is right, 3 grunts and the engine comes alive. What I emphasize is GROUND, clean connections. I may be accused of rambling .But I will tell you from experience to prove a point. A Ford tractor, I think was L 9 came in the garage, driver complaining of low battery . The electrician replaced the alternator. Problem persist. I was given the job finally. With the engine running at idle I hooked up a voltmeter between the output terminal and chassis frame. Next I Used a 14 gauge wire jumper from alternator frame to chassis. The voltage went up from about near 13 volts to 14 plus volts. The problem was chassis ground to engine. This is a common problem overlooked. Cheers mates. Have a nice day. By the way I have a DB 12 volt distributor I think a 1917, to give away for the cost of shipping. Interested ? phone me at 905 889 0621 or hsahu8034@gmail.com