trini

My son gave me a 1995 Jeep Cherokee 2 door Sports with a 6 inline fuel injected fuel system after using it for about 4 years. I did the following repairs Replaced the aluminium rad within 2 years from new for him. Since I own it I replaced the alternator, water pump , steering pump, steering ram twice ,both sides front drive shaft cross (u joint) although I never used the front wheel drive, all rubbers pertaining to the stabiliser bar, a windshield and replaced brake pads a few times and rotors once. 2 years ago I decided to change the rotors. This offshore parts dealer offered me a pair of rotor for 45 dollars. He said to me why install expensive parts. I told him where to get off. I went up the street from him and ordered a pair of rotors from a Delco dealer costing 80 dollars each, made by American racing co. Last year I replaced the callipers, wheel cylinders, linings and pads. Changed the clutch assembly and slave cylinder, brake master cylinder and clutch cylinder, machined the flywheel and replaced the rear main seal, and the valve cover seal . November last I replaced the stainless steel muffler with another stainless steel muffler. This jeep was custom ordered with full gauges and air condition When my son bought the Jeep he had it undercoated and oiled every year and I continued doing it. It has 240 k on it and garaged parked for the winter when I go south. There is not a spot of rust and with original paint. It has a 5 speed manual gearbox and cruises at 100 KM @ 1800 rpm on 5th. The fuel rating is 12 liters to 100 KM. ABS (God send) brakes . Turns on a dime and easy to drive. I will give it to my grand daughter who wants to learn to drive standard shift. OH, and I replaced the battery after 7 years. and change the oil twice a year. How much it is worth ? Lucky to get 900 dollars . Now that I am 80 years old my next ride will most likely be an automatic. I will give this jeep to my grand daughter since it is mechanically safe. To me it is worth a million dollars.

Thanks gentlemen, for the opinions. I appreciate it. I never owned one but always admired the prewar cars. I am going after it and I will keep you informed. Cheers and have a nice day. Harry.

I am looking for opinions on the weak spots on a 1937 Packard 4 door 110 with an inline 6. A collector friend here in Ontario told me to stay away from Packard because spare parts costs are too high. I also checked Wikipedia. The 37, 38 and 39 were made during the recession and as a result the products were cheapened in order to stay in business. Also there is reference to Packard manufacturing flat straight 8 with hydraulic valves. Wikipedia gleans it's information from experts like you. So if you like to be discreet in giving me advice, please email me hsahu8034@gmail.com. I am looking forward. Thank you and have a nice day

Hi Marty, I stand corrected . Did I read your answer correctly, about an oil gauge for a 1927 Chevrolet ? I had a 1927 Chevrolet engine , no valve train cover and no side pan cover. To oil the engine valve train an oil can was use to soak the felt pad sitting on the valve train. The crank was splash fed. That was changed in the 1928 model. However the covers had no gasket and leaked . I am a Canadian so perhaps the U.S. models were different.

I am curious to know the application of this oil gauge. That is really low. There is a low pressure sending unit when wired correctly will kill the engine if oil pressure is low. Engine will not start unless the pressure is corrected. I do not think owners of antique cars require that. The first thing he checks is oil level and then coolant. Harry.

There is merit in every suggestion and no question is foolish. If I knew I would not ask. I learned something from every post. When I bought my 1928 Dodge Senior and got it started I was elated. The ammeter showed a constant 20 amps . The manual says 15 amps. I ran the engine a couple of times and the generator went dead. A new fuse did not help. On dismantling the generator I discovered the output brush. was grounding at the place of anchor by a small screw. The insulating washer had deteriorated causing the generator to overcharge, burning the armature and field coil to a crisp . The battery was good and was 8 volts., could not take more volts. Advance Electric Rebuilders did a good job. Now the amperage is 15 , right where it should be. Bench testing a generator or alternator ? Just ground the field and the amp will shoot right up. Do it for prolong periods and you may fry the field. SO FELLOW MEMBERS, DO NOT CRUCIFY ME, BECAUSE I AM SUBJECT TO CORRETION. I AM ONLY STATING MY EXPERIENCE. Cheers and have a nice day.

Thank you, hwellens, I appreciate your help. Not many people will take time out to help others. Cheers and have a nice day. trini.

Special thanks to the following D B guys .What a great bunch. hwellens, Jon, carhartly, and plymouthcranbrook who took time out to help a fellow member. I am going to dis assemble , re clean and with new gaskets and follow you instruction. Thank again.

Yes, I cleaned every bit . This carburetor has a brass plunger/piston with a long compression spring inside. No red leather plunger. Every dirt out. There is a deep scar nearer the tip of the old screw, so deep it cannot be cleaned out.. But the new screw makes no difference. My last resort will be to send it to a rebuilder.

No, not with your mouth, unless you have a dozen lungs to spare. Use an air nozzle in the tank and a wet rag around to make a seal . Loosen(not remove) the line nut at the vacuum tank. Shake the line to make sure it is loose. Have an assistant to help you. If nothing comes out then check the intake by blowing backwards through the line from the vacuum tank. If the tank has been sitting a long time have it cleaned. Cheers. Harry.

I rebuilt a Carter B B 1 and installed it on a 28 D B Senior. It idles nicely with the jet at the lower rear of the float. The problem is it makes no difference whichever way the AIR screw is turned, neither the old one nor the new one from the kit. I dissembled the carburetor so many and cleaned and reinstalled, rendering the gasket useless. The Venturi is less than finger tight and I am wondering if that is the problem. Any help from club members ? Harry.

Most times when I experience difficulty with starting diesel engines with fuel problems I used the shop air line and pressure the fuel tank. It pushes the fuel to the injector pump and the offending air leaks and fuel leaks will show up. So do the same on the gas tank. It will push gas ,and if there is no leak between the tank and the vacuum gizmo, the vacuum tank will fill right up. Do not over do it. Just enough to fill the vacuum tank . Loose the inlet line at the vacuum tank to check if fuel is coming . Once get going start engine periodically to avoiding fuel dry out. About 60 years ago an older gentleman told me of a "trick" by soldering a bicycle tube stem somewhere on the vacuum tank and reverse the packing on the bicycle pump . The gas tank on my 28 DB Senior is still dry so I am trying to use a substitute tank hanging from the front door post leading directly to the carburetor. It works fine. Every time I use an electric fuel pump, inline, between the substitute tank and the carburetor, it floods and leaks out the gas. The float system on the B B1 is not designed for an electric inline pump between the vacuum tank and the carb. I learned the hard way. Cheers and good luck. Harry.

Hi Newbie, I have a 1928 DB Senior so the starting procedure will probably be the same or similar in some respects. Turn the ignition key 1/4 turn to the right and push down on the switch mounted on the floor board to the right of the gas pedal. (there is a round button close by which is a foot rest)The starter button looks like an old time head light dip switch. Push squarely and hard downwards. The front seat area is sort of tight so be sure and press the button fully. The Manual says to pull the little lever on the right of the steering wheel back to you ,that will be advance position, but be careful because it can cause starter motor problems if abused. Push the left lever up to engage the gas pedal ( how much opening of the throttle is required will come to you from experience, or so the manual says) If no cranking happens then go back and check battery and connections. Battery cable size must be not less than 2 zero. Connections looks good but are not necessarily so. Most electrical problems are poor grounds. Too much cranking can cause unnecessarily wear and tear. Hope this help. If the engine cranks and does not start come back to this forum and I will walk you through. Cheers and good luck

I am not sure what it will fit . I think it came off a Dodge Brothers 12 volt system. It has no weights or springs , no points. It has 4 lobes and the terminal is in good condition. It has a ground wire running along the stem. The gear has very little wear. All steel body. The Label say North East Electrical and there is a part# looks like 10004

For a 1928 Dodge . door check strap hardware. The metal hardware held with 2 screws on the door which locks the strap in place. hsahu8034@gmail.com

12 volt distributor in beautiful condition .10 dollars plus shipping cost. Contact hsahu8034@gmail.com

Sorry, mate, I am getting offline. I found another one nearer to home. Cheers. Harry.

Hi Chuck, I will buy your BB1 Carburetor for price stated plus shipping. Please send me your mailing address and the name you wish to have a U S Money order written, Email me hsahu8034@gmail.com. phone 905 889 0621. Harry.

Thank you very much for the comments guys . I appreciate it. I am driving a 1995 5 speed manual Jeep Cherokee for the last 20 years and spoiled. trini

Can any one tell me when Dodge started manufacturing standard gear boxes with synchronise gears ? What is the possibilities of swapping a 1928 DB crash box with synchronise gear box . Just a thought. trini

I recently saw an item on EBay that I can use. but there was a fixed charge for shipping. The actual shipping would have been around ten dollars with the item in a small bubble envelope. But the shipping was quoted much higher because ,it appears to me, sellers send their stuff to a central shipping and packing centre, sort of contracted out, to whom I do not know . I enquired from the seller why is this. His answer was he will have to line up at the USPS center for an hour to fill out the foreign declaration and that could cost me an hour of his time He is right. The cost of a ten dollars item does worth it. What I do not understand is the Import Duty as stated in the list of charges. In Canada we do not pay charges whether import or duty charges for collectors items related to cars and other old items The vendor never replied. I used to buy from EBay before and send US money order. It cost me and the vendor less. EBay has put out the carrot about this "instant payment through PayPal and the vendors jumped on the wagon whether willingly or unwillingly The vendor and I are both losers. It cost me money to buy the money order and a stamp but I prefer the vendor make his money. Last week I bought 2 items from different vendors. Although it stated the vendor accepts the different credit cards I could not exercise my choice of Visa. I do not have a PayPal account I tried twice and then the PayPal app appeared which I was forced to fill out. Now PayPal is going to credit my Visa. Not for nothing. Why was the vendors not allowed to debit my Visa directly? I think there should be a forum on this site for vendors to sell most items including automotive related.

On a 1928 Dodge Senior I drilled out the door key assembly and the handle out. I want to replace the handle with one with no keys. I cannot remove the lock assembly from the door to get the square shaft out. I wiggled and twisted it but there is no room to get it out. The door handle was crimped and pinned to the square shaft which I had to drill and saw out. Any advice. Thank you.

Hi Tom, will you send me a picture of the cross shaft and the rest of what is there ? email to hsahu8034@gmail.com Cheers. trini

I do not know what these headlights are but the lens on 2 of them seems familiar. If the lens marking are TILT RAY HEADLIGHT-GUIDE AND IS ABOUT 8 1/4 INCHES in diameter. This is what is on my 28 DB Senior. I am looking for a pair. If you are willing to part with them , depending on the price, I will consider it. Contact me hsahu8034@gmail.com Cheers

I believe this Dodge is a 12 volts negative ground. If it is I have a 12 volt 4 cylinder distributor type 10004 in nice condition, no rotor ,no cap. Free plus shipping if you need it for a spare. I am near Toronto, Canada. If interested contact me hsahu8034@gmail.com or 905 889 0621. Cheers mate. Have a nice day. Harry