trini

Hi Fellows. Can a rear hub from a 1928 Plymouth fit a 1928 D.B. Senior rear axle ? Thank for a reply. Cheers. Harry. hsahu@tcn.net

Not all 6 volts ignition coils are designed the same. Some are positive ground and some are negative ground. The 39 dodge is positive ground. The negative terminal of the coil goes to the distributor. When ordering a coil make sure to specify type of ground. A good coil , using an ohm meter must not be less than 17000 ohms. ( connect out terminal and the other probe to the tower) Condensers can be faulty as well . Too high or too low will add metal to one side of the contact or the other. Condensers sitting over long periods will deteriorate and will function as a resister. May burn up contacts instantly. It is inexpensive , Please replace.

Looking at the position of the coil bolted on to the engine block is not an ideal place. May be you should think about changing spot. Resisters are used to save premature points burnouts and not coil. You need a full voltage in your coil in order to get a maximum output as designed . Installing a resister between the ignition and the "in" of the coil is self defeating. Try wrapping a piece of body insulator around the coil for trial too. During my working years I came across hair line cracks inside caps. By running the engine in the dark will reveal spark jumping. Not many old cars were of ideal design . I am always subject to correction. Cheers and have a nice day.

Thank you Jason. MY APPOLOGIES. the charging rate was 20 amps regardless of speed ove7 or 8 00 R.P.M. It characteristic as if the field has a permanent short. Near one of the through bolts there is a slotted bolt head, looks like a short bolt. The head is slightly larger than the regular through bolt and is near the oiler. I tried turning it but it is not moving. The insulation on the armature looks rather discoloured. Must the through bolts be removed in order to move the brushes ? I will try again. Thank you and have a nice day.

There are 3 openings showing the brushes and slotted sections held by screws. Looks like" loosen the screws and turn to adjust." The screw heads are inaccessible unless I remove the plate in which case the brushes will come with it. The problem will be reinstalling. It looks like I will have to remove the assembly. I will keep trying. Thank you.

A coil is really a transformer. Use an ohmmeter. one lead to the terminal and the other lead to the high tension terminal. Record the result. Switch the ohmmeter to the other terminal and record. The lower reading terminal is the one that goes to the ignition key. Cheers.

I read this test 60 years ago but never tried it myself. Sharpen a lead pencil with the lead about a quarter inch long. Place the lead between the spark plug wire and the engine block and crank. If the spark reverses, the polarity is incorrect. If the spark jumps through the lead the polarity is correct. There is nothing to lose. Other than that replace it with one with markings. Cheers and happy motoring.

Hi. I have a problem with the North East generator on a 1928 D.B. Senior. ( chain driven) I bought the car with a rebuilt engine which was done several years ago and never ran. I assume the generator was serviced at the same time. I started the engine recently, runs beautiful. The oil pressure at first was 30 lbs, then next time it went up to 40 lbs and now is 50 lbs. That is at top of the gauge. I do not think it is working correctly. Owners manual says it should be 40 lbs. The generator was pushing 30 amps at around 1200 rpm until the 5 amp fuse blew. Now there is no charge. The cut out works. I cannot find any information in my owners manual how to adjust output. Is there any way to adjust the output? I am looking forward to hear from you all. Thank you. Harry.

Check your ignition circuit with a test light. Check your coil output by grounding( the distributor wire) the out wire , hold the coil high tension wire close to the block but not touching and scratch the other terminal briefly with a hot wire. If there is spark the coil is good but not necessary perfect. May break down when hot. The ignition key may be intermittent . Use jumper to bypass. Hot wire. Good luck. Harry

Can any one tell me whether the joints of the wooden framing on the 28 Dodge Brothers Senior are glued and tightened with screws, Or just pushed together tightly and screwed. I am taking apart the wood frame and I do not see any sign of glue. The screws are fossilised ,some with no threads left, will turn but not back out. The wood has shrunk and all the joints are loose. I am looking forward to hear from you. Cheers and have a nice day.

A side draft carb complete and in beautiful shape. needs rebuilding. It has a long flex metal pipe with the choke incorporated in it . Asking price is $150.00. The vendor is Dennis Smith, Phone 705 428 2610.

An old trick is to wrap the coil with a wet cool cloth to cool down . It will help you get out of trouble temporarily. Why would you want to run an old coil ? You are looking for trouble. The coil and condenser may be in there before Christ was born. I would suggest you go to NAPA and get replacement. Change the position of the coil somewhere cool and rewire it. Most cars that we appreciate today were no angel in its days. Some had more defects than others. Flush the master cylinder and bleed the brakes. There should be a hill holder in the system. Happy motoring

I bought a few items on Ebay myself in the old days. That was when I was able to "ask a question" regarding payment which was cash, certified cheque or money order. 99.9 percent of the time it was U. S. Money Order. I was given time to mail the M.O. Or sometime I would phone the Visa # to the vendor.(not by email). Never had a problem. The smartman has stepped in and says " if visa can make money this way we can set up our own system" What is wrong with visa? I prefer to give what little pittance the poor vendor makes directly than to have big corporations skimming off them. It is like stealing from the poor. Look at the adds." Payment method" and you will have to dig deep to find the alternatives. Visa will remove errant vendors for malpractice. Besides Paypal questions are too invasive. Paypal says their system guarantees the vendor get payment right away. So be it .But who pays?. I do not like anyone to get their fingers into my bank account. I have a few trusted dealers to whom I will give my Visa numbers. Now almost every store is offering credit cards, even grocery stores. "you get 25 dollars off on you first purchase". that is for the gullible ones. I maintain a strong will to resist temptation. Do not be surprised if in the near future panhandlers "association" will be offering credit cards. THAT IS MY PERSONAL OPINION. I AM ALWAYS SUBJECT TO. CORRECTION

Try putting compressed air into the cylinder, put the nozzle in the hole and pad it with a cloth and force air into it . Have an assistant put a finger on the other hole and see if any air is coming through. If air is coming through then compression is bypassing from one cylinder into the next. Cheers and have day. Harry

Hi Rick, in a mechanically sound engine it is possible to mistakenly switch wires . Usually the firing order is cast on most heads. When doing a compression test the plugs has to be removed. A 70 year old flat head engine with the original gasket is highly suspect. Usually the gasket material around the head bolts are so narrow as to cause the gasket to gave way .Most times it is fatigue. I am subject to correction. Harry Cheers

one split rim.free. pay shipping 20 inches in diameter , 4 inches wide outside , 3 inches between rings. sahu@tcn.net. for pictures

Hi Bill, I am not trying to be smart or satirical but you are in in a different situation in that you collect a lot of cars and may be sell some too. I am not in that financial position. I have only one and trying to restore it by myself. Mr.Toyota was asked how can he manage all his assets. His response was " if I bite too much and cannot chew it I spit it out" Cheers, buddy. I do not mean to insult anybody.

A 15 lbs difference for an old engine is not that bad. I do not know what the compression should be but from past experience 80 lbs is not far of. Compression ratio is 6.1. I do have reservations on the two adjacent cylinders with equal compressions. It is normally an indication of a head gasket leaking between the 2 cylinders, therefore the equal compression. If that is the case the two cylinders will try to fire at the same time and cause serious damage. The wet and sooty spark plugs is an indication of too much gas which can be detected at the tailpipe. The gas in the 2 adjacent is not burning but goes directly to exhaust. A valve job is not that expensive. My opinion is take the head off and have it resurfaced. Run your fingernail against the ring grove. If your nail gets caught on the grove its time to cut the block one size up. If not leave the bottom end alone. Just reface the valve. You can do that yourself by using lapping compound and suction cup with a wooden handle available from Napa. You may be able to get a valve tool at flea markets for about 2 dollars. Or you may get a machinist to resurface them but make sure you lap them on spot. I will not rebuild the block at this stage regardless of wear. I will do the head and valves and get the engine running first and take it from there. Change to wire core high tension and regular plugs for now. They are readily available from Napa. Give Napa a try for head gasket as well. If my suggestion works enjoy driving your car until you can afford to do an engine job if necessary. Tappet clearance is .006 for intake and .008 for exhaust. Points clearance is .025 and plugs .028 according to Dodge. This is my humble suggestion only. I am no expert. Cheers . Good luck FREE ADVICE IS EXACTLY WHAT IT'S WORTH. ONE CAN ONLY APPRECIATE ADVICE WHEN IT IS PAID FOR .

Hi auburnseeker, My mane is Harry Sahu, my phone number 905 889 0621 and my email is hsahu@tcn.net My ebay number is 127318 and password is harduar I recently tried to enter but was not allowed. I do not hide behind "anonymous" and I am not referring to you . Being a vendor is your right and I will defend it. The by- products comes with it though." Kicking tyres" is really a figure of speech . I read in my local " Old Auto" magazine of Canadians buying sheet metal parts from some U.S. vendors who described the parts as nice dry Arizona parts only to find out when received they were nothing but junk or will not fit because Canadian cars are sometimes different than U.S models. It would be nice if parts are really described truthfully. Your advice on asking questions and lots of pictures are duly accepted. That is common sense. If the vendor is honest he will comply. Shady ones are evasive. However, I will still stay away from ebay as much as possible and have no intention of buying a car from vendors on ebay for that matter. It is my sacred right. I will also not aggravate vendors by lowballing or "make me an offer" The goods are yours. If I do not like the price I walkway. That is me. I read of many Canadians who bought old cars advertised in the Old Auto magazine unseen (a Canadian publication) and are very happy Ebay is in the business to make money but as everything else when moderation crosses the line to greed I take a second look. I wish you luck in your vending. I recognise it is not easy to deal with the bad and the ugly. The good are few and far between. Cheers. Have a nice day.

Hi Bill. I am observant . There is a statement "one born every minute" I have been burnt a few times for small things but generally I meet a lot of honest to goodness people in my life and more so "old car guys". Most have gone to the garage beyond. Today many restorers do a lot of short cuts just for a fast buck .How ever, restoring a car or truck is costly and time consuming. One has to be really knowledgeable to detect flaws in restored vehicles. I am just a retired grease monkey. I like to be on the safe side by staying away from restored vehicles unless I know the vendor personally. I bought this 28 D.B senior fully knowing what I was going to meet and I will never do a short cut job. The person who sold it told me said what he thought has to be done and we still keep in contact. I will tell you a tale of two brothers. John lives in Toronto and Jim in Vancouver, dealing in fish . John phones Jim ,told him to send some fish for him. John had a party and all who ate the fish got sick. So John phones Jim and said "all my guest who ate the fish got sick" Jim said " why did you not tell me you wanted it for yourself ? I thought you wanted it to resell. Draw you conclusions, Bill, I may be dumb but not stupid. I will never knowingly mislead anyone and I teach my children the same value. My good name is worth something. Cheers. Harry.

Hi whtbaron, I joined Ebay many years ago and had god experiences, never had a bad rating and never gave a bad rating. I paid with U.S money order. For the last few years doing business on Ebay has changed, some payment method clearly states paypal only. Then dig deeper and the credit card icons comes up as "also". I had to send messages to vendors stating my preferred method and their approval before bidding. NO PAYPAL FOR ME. just my choice. I have one credit card only for the last 40 years and that is Visa. If the vendor does not accept it good luck to him. The money is in my pocket. I begrudge no one. Recently I tried getting into ebay and it will not accept my ID and password but I still get notices "from my favourite seller" in my email. I do not know how to stop that. My ID is 127318.and password is harduar. try it. My phone number is 905 889 0621 for the past 40 years and email hsahu@tcn.net I hide nothing in my dealings with vendors. If a person wants to dishonest he has a problem, not I. Cheers. Have a nice day.

Hi Roger, Thank you for the advice. I am changing the roof of the 28 senior D.B. the wood is rotted on the rear top corners and the front top , the windscreen section, the wood is completely rotted. I looked into the possibility of Polyall but it is impractical because the wood is wedged inside and under the roof overhanging inside. I have a built in manufacturer's defect in that I like to see things done near perfect. I removed the top section with the cross bars and the passenger's side wood rail. It was a challenge. I chiselled it out in pieces. There is surface rust all over the underside of the sheet metal. I think the condition is just right for the POR 15. When I am finished I am hoping the car last another 80 years. Cheers. Have a nice day. Harry

Hi Machinist Bill, I learn something from you today. You have the talents and expertise. I do not have. I was never in a position to deal with the public because I worked in house. Not in contact with the public. My younger son can speak to a person for 5 minutes and be able to asses him or her. I have an honest quality in me. I will never allow myself to knowingly mislead anyone at any cost. I met car strangers who were willing to give me parts and advice, and mail the money later. You may lowball a project but the vender will hold back some very important pieces. He will asses the buyer too. I look at prices on Ebay and find prices are generally overpriced. One man junk is another mans treasure. You cannot beat knowledge and experience. When last have you seen a roadside vegetable stand with no attendants? "put money in pan and take change" That was the Canadian way. It has changed over the years. Cheers. Have a nice day " WHAT IS GOOD FOR GENERAL BULLMOOSE IS GOOD FOR EVERYBODY"

The first thing a tune up mechanic will do is a compression test, dry and wet. If bad start with solving engine problem. Visual inspection is important . A tune up consist of changing plugs, condenser, cleaning and adjusting contacts, changing wires, rota and cap. If carb is suspect have it repaired. Malfunctioning choke can cause lots of problem. As we get older we tend to forget some things sometimes after being retired for so long. I recently had an experience with a choke cable on my 28 D.B.. Both the cable and housing was moving simultaneously causing flooding. I took me a while to smarten up. In an old car look out for anything. In the old carburetor days we spray the carb with carburetor cleaner and let sit for a while , then start engine and spray some into the air horn while the engine fast idles. Spray until the engine wants to die, stop, and when the engine picks up speed spray some more until the whole system gets cleaned out. I saw older mechanics used transmission oil. But when all else fail its back to basic. There are too many variables to look for. By running the engine in the dark will show up sparks outside the cap and wires. Rebuild. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, Cheers and have nice day.

Try "The Filling Station", They had some listed recently. I think the address is "thefillingstation.com" All Chevrolet and GM parts. Cheers.