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6 volts system was always a source of electrical problem. With the advance of modern technology life has become a little more tolerable. To start with, the cables must be 2 zero or heavier in size. CLEEN GROUND and tight connections. I have seen cable connections ,the quick fix type, peel off the insulation, push in and tighten the 2 screws. (it is a source of problem) Terminals MUST be soldered properly. Heavy ground strap from the engine block to the frame must be clean and tight. ALL 6 VOLTS CABLES ARE HEVIER THAN in 12 VOLTS SYSTEMS. Heavy duty batteries are usually 9 or 11 plates. Both batteries, whether sealed or with caps are good. I would use one with the caps so I will be able to top off with water when necessary, if using a generator.( I will discuss the reason later) Since you have a mix of 6 and 12 volts, boy, you are in big trouble. THEY DO NOT MIX. You may change the complete system one way or the other. NO MIX. The starter may already be damaged and also the generator. Get the generator rebuilt with the regulator as a unit or replace with a 6 volt alternator .The starter and solenoid is also suspect. Most likely the system is positive ground. If the bulbs are 12 volts, by using a 6 volt battery they will glow dim. By using a 12 volt battery to light up a 6 volt bulb it will light up very brightly To know if your charging system is working ,start the vehicle and run for a few minutes and bring down to idle speed, turn on the lights and heater motor. If the engine RRM drops, the system is working fine , if not check for head lights or other grounds or malfunctioning components. I recommend changing the ignition coil . The low tension wires should be 24 gauge or heavier. You may also have ignition (burnt out coil) or problem in the distributor. THAT 12 VOLT BATTERY MAY HAVE WIPED OUT OR SERIOUSLY DAMAGED ALL ELECTRICALS.

Hi Stuart, look below the hub there is a large circular dust shield, painted in black. It is attached below the hub. Use a sharp square screw driver and tap the edges down and away from the hub. It is tight fit on the hub so be gentle and prevent distortion. It drops down the steering column. Now look behind (below) the hub and you will see two screws. Remove the screws and the piece you want out can be removed. The steering nut will be exposed. If you need to remove the steering wheel the attached levers must be removed. Remove the attachment at the lower end including the horn wire. Pull them straight upwards. . The steering nut is not that robust so be careful when removing. Use a stock of aluminium block on the shaft to prevent damaging the threads of the shaft. Those 2 pins you show in your picture are fixed to a disc and must be anchored solid, so if they are loose, silver solder them back in place. That is needed to secure the gadgets at the top.. DO NOT LOOSE PEICES , REPLACEMENTS ARE DIFFICULT TO FIND. Clean the rods of old grease .You may encounter problems removing the horn wire from the tube .Sometimes they twist in the tube and you really have to use force. The wire terminal at the horn button is sealed and is not worth dismantling. Just splice a new piece as near as possible to the button. "Observe" on the outer shaft there are 2 bronze bushings. Save the "keys" Replacements do not fit properly" Dodge Brothers parts of that era are precise fit. In two 2 weeks from now I will be away for 4 months. Cheers and have a nice day.

Removing broken head bolts from aluminum heads is more difficult than on a cast iron block. I would use the same method of drilling the bolt in the center and keep upsizing until close as possible to the edge of the stud. Or use a drill the size of the bolt. If you go a little off side is not a problem. Use a #2 brazing tip and warm the stud by pointing the flame into the hole using a small flame in a circular manner heating the inside of the "barrel". Use the heat and cool process a few times. It will loosen up the aluminium crud. Use this method if the hex is broken off. What you may also do is to drill through the hex right through the bolt. The next step will be to take out the pieces from the block. There is no magic wand.

Removing head bolts from flathead engines is tricky especially if they are in there for a long time. Some of the bolts go through the water jacket and weakens close to the block. Trying to remove the studs from top of the head is a bad idea at best because the length of the studs lends itself to more twisting and easier to break. To do it right and safely as much as possible it is better to remove the head. If the bolts were in fairly recently you probably hit the jackpot by using the Snapon stud remover. Must be held close to the block. If the studs look like trouble at the roots, or breaks, square the top of the broken end, center punch mark as close as possible and start drilling with slow speed using a 3/16 bit right down past bottom and continue to upsize drill. Now you will be able to direct the flame in the drilled hole on the side wall of the drilled bolt. Do not over heat. Let it cool and try an extractor. If no luck, use a slightly larger drill and renew the hole. Use a new 24 T hacksaw blade and grind the back about 2 1/2 inches long and wide enough to fit the hole and cut along the side being careful not to cut the thread of the block. Cut 2 spots about 3/16 apart from each other. Use a suitable punch, bump the side of the narrow piece between the 2 cuts towards the inside . The idea is to shape the broken stud as a pipe and weaken it . If you cannot hold the drill straight (I wear glasses and can never hold the drill straight) try using a magnetic drill . This job needs patience. See if some of our club members will lend you some and start off by reciting the Lords prayer backwards . You never know. When installing head bolts a healthy dose of copper slip grease works wonders and also on exhaust components.

Hi Keith, What a surprize. I have 1928 Dodge Senior and it has hydraulic brakes. I thought all 1928 Dodges had hydraulic brakes. In my working days for a large trucking company there was a local outfit used to custom make replacement cables for hand brakes and gas . I think the name was Cisco, not quite sure. Go on Google. Left to me I would replace with Hydraulics. Think about it. My assembly was made by Lock heed at factory. also a 1928 Senior donor is a good bet. A 1929 hydraulic system is easier match. There are great dodge brothers members who are ready to give you good advice modifying your brakes. May have to do a little fabrication. Keiser31 is a source of inspiration Cheers. Harry.

Sorry guys, I thought there must have been a forum on this topic before but I could not find it. I put in Lucas DOT 4 . the label says Synthetic . But around the cover of the master cylinder there is rust, which should not be. Also some of the labels read DOT 4 is equivalent to dot 5 but I cannot get DOT 5 to buy here. Supplies from the US will not ship liquids across the border. Not even an ignition coil. The cylinders are lined with stainless steel but I am worried about the rubbers. I had a discussion with Land Rovers North on this subject about 10 years ago and he said silicone based brake fluid is better than DOT 3 but never mix them.. But technology is changing daily. Man thanks to Keiser31, Spinneyhill, Frank and Bloo who took the time to educate me. Cheers and have a nice day

Hi , I would like to find out which type of brake fluid is better suitable for the 1928 Dodge cars ? Is it DOT 3, or Dot 4 Synthetic. What is the advantage and disadvantage ? The Dodge will be not be regularly driven. Thank you, members. If you do not feel comfortable to express your opinion in this column you may contact me personally at hsahu8034gmail.com Email comments are confidential. Cheers and have a nice day.

First you must find out if the oil is from the engine or the transmission. Some old time transmission carries a cork oil seal on the input shaft which leaks into the bell housing. If it is engine oil, I do not know what type of engine you have, If it is a Continental check the rear main seal. On some of those engines it is possible to tighten up the lower half of the seal cap. But check first the breather is clear.

The comments and advice are all good. I always learn something new. I took a different approach. I did this with my 1928 Dodge Senior. To maintain originality of parts I had the master and the wheel cylinders relined with stainless steel to original size so I could use all the original components . Not Chinese. I replaced all flexible hoses and copper washers. What is important on new or rebuilt linings is to file or chamfer the edges. Make sure the edges are not overhanging the metal shoe surface. Arching the shoes is fine but use a drum gauge after installing on backing plate to drum. If the drum is too tight check the pins. There are coil springs in the wheel cylinders that prevent the pistons bottoming out blocking the entry of fluid .The diameter of the piston is less than the total diameter of the seal in place in the piston. I learned hard lessons trying to save money by fooling around with old worn out parts and changing rubbers with poor results and double work and money wasted. One member said it best. Old car business is not for the faint hearted and cheap pockets. It is impossible to bleed a braking system with a non functioning master cylinder. Bleeding the braking system , renewing the fluid every two years saves lots of headache and money later on. Goes for all old cars five years and older. Cheers and good luck.

I tried and got it . How to upload pictures on this forum. Thank you all I AM OK NOW. Cheers.

I missed the topic on "How to up load Pictures" on this programme. Is any one willing to show me or tell me where to find the information, please ? Thank you.

Adjusting plug for draglink from steering arm to link on wheel. Looks like 1 1/2 inch in diameter with groves for cotter pin. This is for a 1928 Dodge Brothers I also need the dust cover for the link Please phone Harry @ 905 889 o621, hsahu8034@gmail.com

Thank you every one for the interesting discussion. A special thanks to keiser31 for posting the pictures for me . I am on my way to complete the steering issue. Cheers and have a nice day. Harry

Kieser31 will be posting a picture of the horn button for me. The horn button is sealed. I may be able to use a dremell tool to cut the foldover metal and retrieve the terminal end but I do not think its worth it. As you can see in the picture the wire is quite healthy and there is more than enough room for splice and shrink tube repair. Thank you for the source of the armour cable. Another source is Restoration Supply Company, 15182 Highland Valley Rd., Escondido, CA 92025-2320, www. RestorationStuff.com . The original style terminals , like a ring with the wire wrapped around and soldered can be found at Fiennes Restoration Ltd ,wwwfiennes.co.uk Than you very much

There was a leather seal which fell apart. No damage to the shaft. I will take your advice. Sounds good. Now I have a new problem. I cannot get access to removing the electrical horn wire at the horn switch. It needs to be changed. All the wires are armour covered and I will like to keep it as original as possible. If it comes to the point where it becomes impossible to open the horn switch I will splice the wire and insulate it well.. Thanks again for all the advice. There is never enough.

The cup washer is there but the seal just fell apart. I think I will make one with a piece of leather. An alternate could be asbestos rope. They come in different styles. The square type is used as rear main seals in some Continental engines. The loose one like a fishing line is probably suitable. My first choice is regular type lip seal, like Rawhide. About the grease I think an alternative can be white molly grease mixed with some transmission or engine oil to a nice consistence. Thank you gentlemen There are so much to learn from your articles. Cheers.

I removed the advance and throttle attachments from the lower shaft. I was able to pull off the assembly from the top of the steering wheel. 2 tubes. one inside the other. Turn the rod assembly upside down and 2 #6 screws are clearly visible. Remove those screws and the horn button comes off. Since the steering wheel is 4 spokes, I used a 2 prong standard puller to remove the steering wheel . The shape of the hub being flat and "square edges" accommodated the puller easily. I drilled a large indent on a piece of aluminum stock and place it on the shaft to protect the thread from the puller bolt damaging the steering shaft. I also used a little heat on the hub (steel hub.) It came off quite easily. I took the steering box apart. It carries no oil, just grease. I have never seen a steering box so simple and efeicently designed. The steering fellows are held to the spokes by dowels. I have to drill the dowels and the fellows comes apart. Thank you taylormade and keiser31. You are an inspiration. Cheers and have a nice day.

This is a 1928 Dodge Brothers Senior. The starter switch is on the dash near and below the steering column. The ignition key assembly is mounted on the back of the coil. The coil is mounted below the dash close to the steering column. The original switch assembly is worn. I removed the assembly completely. Mounted a new conventional coil on the original bracket and a separate on/off ignition switch. The starter switch button is on the floor. I have no Clum key. This car is the last DB made by the Dodge Brothers. From "29 and up are all Chrysler. The horn button is mounted on the middle of the steering wheel.

Hi D. B. friends, I need some help on how to remove the steering wheel of a 1928 Dodge Senior. There is no discernible screws in the center except the horn button and the 2 levers, for advance and throttle. Cannot see anything under the hub either. I am guessing , the attachment to the rods at the lower end must be marked and removed, and pull the levers strait up but the horn button puzzles me. I want to rewire the horn button The wood wheel is in excellent shape but loose at the joints. Thank you for your help.

Thank you keiser31. You are a true patriot. The last picture of the flywheel shows how it is recessed to accommodate the clutch assembly. I tried to show the dowels fixed inside the flywheel. One of the pictures shows the plate behind the disc, that floats on the dowels. It also has the 3 (fingers) levers which is pushed by the release bearing . The pressure plate assembly is loaded with a strange type (wound like a clock spring spring) yet of compression type . The manual warns not to fool around with that spring as it is loaded at the factory. If you notice the back of the pressure plate in the picture I installed the bolts in the incorrect spots. The bolts must be installed directly at the points of the tips " 3 pointed star". Notice in my installation the bolts are to the right of the pointed "star" which is incorrect. Even the gearbox bell housing is fitted into a machined grove. NO SLOP. I am amazed how efficient and advanced the Dodge Brothers technology was for the times. Every part is machined at very close tolerances. No room for the mechanic to make mistakes . Cheers.

Hello keiser31, I re and re this gearbox 5 times . My neighbor who is a current army mechanic helped me twice . No luck. Pedal will not depress. I took pictures and I am trying to upload them. Cheers.

Thank you keiser 31. this clutch is totally manual, no hydraulics. The pedal moves freely on its shaft. Only the link is adjustable by removing the cotter pin and turning the yoke one way or another for pedal height. This pressure plate has 3 slots . at equal distances on the outer edge and 3 lugs (pins) on the recessed flywheel so the pressure plate has to fit on the logs and slide in and out freely . The clutch plate is fitted on a recessed flywheel, then the pressure plate, all in the recess. The pressure plate is held in place by 3 7/16 bolts via 3 tabs (all recessed in the flywheel. Even the gearbox bell housing is recess into the flywheel. The center of the clutch plate has a heavy spring shaped like a clock spring. According to the manual ,remove the inspection plate and turn something inside the plate bearing to adjust clutch for wear. Something like a Spicer 16 speed gear box and not the pedal rod. I never saw one like it in my life. The pedal link is only for pedal height. I tried twice, re and re with no luck I am going shortly and remove the gearbox again, take some pictures and see if I can upload them on this forum. The clutch plate is new and was working fine before. I am going remove the gearbox shortly .

I had a similar problem on the 1928 Dodge Senior engine on one bolt thread I solved it by using a hel ciol kit It comes with a special size drill. I used a special washer to seal all the bolts from water leaks. These washers have rubber inserts around the inside holes A flat washer may be used behind if you like . These washers are sold by Techno Seals here in my area in Toronto Canada. I still have a few left. All depends on how much "meat" left in the block. If you decide to use carbon steel bolts, use copper slip grease. It works for me. All the advice have merits, but the block is the dictator. The cover on the water jacket was rusted , lots of holes inside and a few was leaking. I sand blasted and soldered the holes from inside and had it powder coated.

Hello Mates, I have a problem and I need a quick solution. On the 28 Dodge Senior gearbox. Which way does the clutch disc face the flywheel ? Both sides of the plate is stamped (front) This assembly has a ring plate between the release bearing and the disc, resembling a clock spring style and three groves that is mounted on three studs fixed on the flywheel. I installed the gearbox twice with the short end of the disc spline facing the flywheel but there is not much movement on the pedal. I cannot remember how much movement was on the pedal before I removed the gearbox. If I remember correctly there were plenty movement but I am subject to correction. Weevil have eaten the wood main frame and I am doing a complete ground up rebuild. At 81 years my memory sometimes plays tricks on me. Cheers and have a nice day. Harry in Toronto Canada.

I need help on the 6 cylinder 1928 Dodge Brothers engine . At the back of the flywheel there are stamped marking for the ignition timing. There are also two holes beside each other stuffed with cork. They are 1/2 an inch in diameter. Can anyone tell me what this is all about ? I cannot find any information in any publication. Cheers and have a nice day.