trini

I have a similar problem with the BB1. The idle screw makes no difference. Old screw, new screw, same thing. The mounting gasket has 4 cut outs on the inside perimeter so there is no way to make a mistake in installing. I idle the engine using the jet underneath the bowl . My engine is also rebuilt. At the moment I am doing a ground up rebuild. so tuning will take a holiday. (1928 dodge senior)

Thank you very much my fellow enthusiast. I did not expect to hear from so many. I posted many pictures of my 28 Dodge Brothers Senior 4 door on the "Photo and Project Forum" Although it is described as all steel it is not totally all steel. The doors are all steel except on the inside along the door glass are 4 pieces 1/2 inch square around the perimeter that follows the door glass around. These strips are screwed on inside with countersunk #8 by 1/2 long wood screws from the outside. There are several elongated cut outs holes in the metal panel in line with the screws. The door panel trim is nailed onto the wood inside through the cut out holes. May also use fancy head tacks. ( 1/2 strips only to accommodate the tacks to hold the trim.) A pleasure to work with . On the B pillar or center post is also a 1 inch strip of wood attached lengthwise in the center to accommodate the trim using tack nail The hold on strap is also attached to the wood by a brass # 8 wood screw. The front seat top portion is also attached with screws to the wood in the center pillar The rail at the top of the windshield is a heavy stamped steel. From left post to right post. It carries a piece of wood on top across to nail the metal strip and the fabric roof. Also to hold the sun visor. The floor board is wood. Looks like pine or spruce soaked in something green. It is in beautiful shape. The main sills are barely 6 feet long and 5 inches at the widest point, and narrowed at the front, shaped for the bulkhead which is narrower than the rear tub. Two rails across holding them together. The steel frame is in excellent condition with surface rust in some places. Never painted. Part of the lower battery box is eaten away. It seems to me it was an attempt to design a semi rounded roof instead of the flat roof of the time . I would say it is truly a 90 percent steel body and way ahead of its time. I am fascinated by wood spoke wheels, but what I like most is the hydraulic brakes, 14 inch drums. The drive shaft is solid like a modern Chevrolet. No torque tube. Easy to install a 283 GM and automatic. Modify the drive shaft and use the existing wood spoke wheels. Tempting. I appreciate your comments very much, and will take your advice. The original top wooden rail to accommodate the roof are red maple. They are cracked up by the nails for the most part and twisted out of shape because of age although they are painted black or soaked with a black liquid. NO OAK, please. I am going to post more pictures on the Photo and Project Forum. Cheers

Hi Members, I have my 1928 Dodge Brothers in pieces. The wood is eaten out by weevil and I am about to replace them. The question is what type of preservative should I use to keep the critters away ? What type of primer , or what is used to preserve the metal for the preparation for final paint. What is the paint code ? The original colour looks dark green. Cheers. Harry.

To all members, I am learning to upload pictures on this club forum. I am not sure if this is the correct forum. Please correct me Cheers and have a nice day. Harry.

Here are pictures of my 1928 dodge brothers being dismantled because of rotted lumber,

Hi, I am moving to photo and video forum. Cheers. Harry.

My son just reprogramed my laptop back to version 7 from version 10. Version is a pain in the but for me , to many steps to mail pictures. I have lots of pictures I love to share. I should get the hang of emailing pictures by Friday April 20 , 17 when my son gets here. I will send lots of pictures. Cheers. Harry.

So you see this add on the local paper or some where " all original 1928 car ? truck or near that year for sale in running condition, original upholstery., nothing missing" etc. Well, think again. What you see outside is deceiving.9 times out of 10.. If you look behind the trim you will see the rotted timbers and surface rust on the sheet metal. In most cases the manufacturers never painted the inside before installing trim. The trim itself is faded and dry rotted, not to mention the rodents and critters housing development. The really bad ones are the Fisher Bodied. I personally will not buy one from the teens up to "31 for nothing. I had a 28 Chevrolet once. I sent it to the scrap. I bought a 1928 Dodge Brothers 4 door sedan sometime in 2009. Original paint . I chose that car because it has 14 inch wheel hydraulic brakes system. The drive train is built like a tank. The drive shaft is like that of a 1968 Chevrolet C 10 and the diff is about the same size. The roof suffered water damage and rotted the roof timbers as a result. The engine purrs like a kitten with a Carter BB1. So to those who are thinking of getting into the hobby of antique car, think with your head and not your heart . Get advise from the guys on this forum. Some of the best in the business. I wish I had done that myself but I did not know of such club existed at the time." Beware, wherever the Deer roams, predators lie waiting in the grass". I learned to recognise a few in this column. Now weevil has eaten away the bottom main sill at the drivers side front door. I have to completely remove all sheet metal and replace timbers. Not a job for the faint hearted. I was born with a disease ( mechanical defect) called perfectionist. It is a long road ahead for me. I want to make it look like the day it came off the factory. I am 81 years old, physically and mentally active. I know I can do it with the help of good natured members. .

Where can I buy drip rails for a 1928 4 door Dodge Brothers ? The current ones has a few dozen 1 and a half inch headless nails and with a lip of the rail bent over the nails head. I tried prying up the lip portion covering the nail heads but was impossible to keep it without distorting. Thank you and have a nice day. Harry.

Let start at the beginning. New condenser of adequate size and properly grounded . Distributor must be properly grounded to the frame .Always remove old ground wire ,clean and re install. Check for shorts using an ohmmeter or test light inside the distributor. It seems there is a hot wire shorting inside or a lack of proper ground . Do no forget to check the condenser for non function. Good luck. Harry.

I have the same type of wire terminals on my 1928 Dodge Brothers Senior all around . Looks neat . Myers do not have them. They made up a set of headlight harness with armour cables but no terminals so I am also looking for about 24 such terminals. I like to keep the old Dodge as original looking as possible Thanks for the lead. Cheers. Harry.

Digger914, Thank you for the advice. Both amp gauge and volt meter are like brand new condition. very solid and can be literally taken apart and re assembled. No problem there. Well made . The adjuster is to ZERO the needle and it works fine. The older technicians are all retired. Now it is all electronic stuff. I will keep trying. I think I saw one like it on E bay , asking price of 300 dollars Cheers

Good Day to all . I need help to repair my old but good physical condition battery tester made by SUN in Chicago. They are no longer in business. They were bought out by Snap on. Now Snap on no longer handles that line. The voltage section needs attention. The needle goes past the maximum reading of 17 volts. When I opened the container there was a note inside saying the voltmeter needs recalibration. There is a capacitor value .o5 at 8oo volts, One resister at 970 ohms and another resister at 470 oms all across the terminal of the voltmeter. Any help is appreciated. Cheers. trini

I have wheels from a 1928 Dodge Brothers Senior. The split is directly opposite the valve stem. The split locking pin on the rim fits on a cutout on the spare tyre carrier. The tyre sizes are 600/650 19 .with 6 notches. I think some Dodge wheels are 450/500 19 with 4 notches that will also fit on the spare wheel carrier of the Senior. I have on of those I want to sell. It may be from a FAST FOUR.. The one in the picture looks to be from a Dodge Brothers.

It is nice reading the comments of the members. They are polite and gave honest views on the subject. I am sure readers out there all learned something. Given the situation on the most cost effected way is, as Restorer32 said, is sand blasting. It has its drawbacks though. It does not matter what method, flash rust is a problem. I LIKE ROGER WALLING METHOD. I have a 1928 Dodge Brothers 4 door Senior with minimal or very little rust. I will get the frame sandblasted and the sheet metal using Roger Walling method. If you come across any new method let us know. Cheers, fellows, and enjoy the hobby

The " METAL LAUNDRY" I refer to was a franchise from somewhere in the U.S. Called electrolysis . Some body must know a chemical used as a medium that will react to electricity in such manner. Similar to home chrome plating somewhat.

Restorer32, good point. small hard parts like brackets and bumpers can be safely bead blasted but there are left over in minute pockets. A tiny hole will get bigger . Look at it through a magnifying glass. May be the bead blasting works, a rim for example. There is always a chance of bleeding from acid. There used to be a company here in Toronto in the early eighties called Canada Metal Laundry . There were three 20 foot tanks. One for removing grease, the next one was for removing paint and the last one was for removing rust. The last tank contained a green liquid like antifreeze.. Completely surrounded by a copper cable, looked like one inch in diameter, and every 2 feet or so a 1 foot square copper blocks hanging in the liquid like a giant necklace .The work pieces will hang from a giant basket from the ceiling into the liquid. There were zillions of rust bubbles moving towards and sticking to the copper block. Like coffee ground. . I had a 28 Chevrolet sheet metal cleaned there and some pieces stored unpainted for more than 5 years with no issues .He was shut down by the environment department. How to blast inside a reinforcing channel spot welded to a sheet metal is a challenge, short of removing the channel . I came across an article in the Old Autos newspaper in Canada. This fellow suggested going to the farmers coop store and buy a gallon of molasses and mix with water. Soak the parts in that. Is that what Vapor Rust and Coca Cola consist of ? I do not know. But I will try a piece and let you know. Soda blasting ? Pieces needs thorough washing and then deal with flash rust after. Here is a new one. "VAPOUR BLASTING" darryl@sodablast.ca . advertised in the latest issue of the Old Atos newspaper. I would like to hear from others on this subject

Large pieces cannot fit in the cabinet for one. Flying sand if sanding outside of cabinet is a hazard , messy in the shop and not permitted in some municipalities to sand blast in the yard. The negative side with sand blasting (glass bead) is losing metal and case hardening of metal. Warping of flat areas . pockets of rust remains ,which cannot be seen most times with the naked eye. This pocket rust will later bubble up . Corners and areas impossible to reach remain half done at best. The same with the new gadget. It will miss out in recesses and may well leave pockets as well. We have not seen the finished product here in North America and no reviews. The major problem of any sort is hidden joints and folds where the nozzle cannot be aimed. WHO SAID THE WORLD IS FLAT ? From my experience small irregular pieces can be cleaned with Vapor Rust. Some says it is a mixture of water and molasses. Muriatic Acid works great. It is messy and dangerous. Make sure you are properly protected. Do not leave the object in the acid for too long. The metal will absorb the acid. Just long enough to remove the rust .Wash thoroughly with soap powder or neutralise with baking soda. Wet with WD40 until ready to paint. There is no easy way out. To weaken muriatic acid lace it with zinc

want to buy sun visor for 1928 Dodge Brothers senior 4 door sedan. I have no idea what it looks like. Easier to email me hsahu8034@gmail.com with information. Cheers. Harry.

Well, John, our dreams are shattered. There is a small market in Canada. It might be possible for club members banding together , purchase one and charge fees to recover cost. A long shot. Do not surrender until the fat lady sings. Cheers and have nice day.

WOW, that is great. Where can I buy one. May be I can set up business. Fantastic job. Cheers. Harry.

Hi MrsHutch, I do not know where you live, but you may ,even just for the information, a Canadian who has tons of radios, all kinds. even a Grand Father Clock radio 6 feet high tube radio. He is the Buick Club and Buick Radio parts dealer Rep in Canada. His name is Harold Macqueen , 95 Alice Street, Brighton, Ontario K0K 1H0. Phone # 613 475 4257 Cheers and good luck. Harry

The inline 4 liter 6 is a reliable engine and will last a long time if maintained with a regular oil change. I drive my Cherokee 8 months for the year mostly in the warm period. I use good quality oil and new filter every 4 months. Some time around 1987 I bought a chevette (Pontiac version) new from a G M Dealer. The salesman was a Jehover"s Witnes. In those days selling and buying extra warranty outside of the manufacturer was popular. So I asked him about warranty. He said every manufacturer had its particular pull. Use only this oil and only that thing and make sure you bring the car to the dealership to have it serviced otherwise the manufacturers warrantee will be void. HE SAID THE BEST AND CHEEPEST WARANTEE IS REGULAR GOOD QUALITY OIL AND FILTER CHANGE. Do not have to bring it to the dealership. The warrantee was 12 months or 12 thousand miles or whichever comes first. The Japanese put an end to that.

On my 95 Cherokee there is a pale triangular light that flashes once in a while briefly and go off. It is not a check engine light. It is a systems check light indicating that the systems are working fine. Do not confuse it with "check engine light". Harry.

It is a pleasure to visit this forum. I learn a lot. Cheers.