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Buying a used car is like a jungle. The vendor knows what his car is worth. I know what I would like to pay. I guess everybody has his or her own way of dealing wit ha transaction. Speaking for myself I walk away when I feel the asking price is not what I am willing to pay. I do not lowball. And please do not ask me to make an offer. The article is yours. I leave the haggling to the vendor. Since the introduction of pay pal I bought very few items from ebay. The last being B.B.1. I try asking vendors please I would like to pay with credit card. In my book pay pal is the most hated institution. The listing says pay pal on payment method. I usually have to contact the vendor to see if he will accept visa. But he vender does not reduce the price with visa. I will not buy a car on Ebay. I must be naïve to pay so much money without seeing what it is. I want to "kick " the tyres, sit in it listen to the engine et al. I am not that dumb. I have no sympathy for those who do.

Vehicles with vacuum advance bolted to the distributer for mechanical advance is for starting only. However at times the diaphragm develops leaks and gas vapor from the carburetor gets into the distributor via the tube from the bottom of the carb. That causes a backfire with the distributor cap usually flying off. I had that experience. To check a vacuum dash pot hook up a vacuum gauge . Vacuum leaks anywhere in the system will cause misfire. I notice your distributor has no vacuum advance unit or it just did not show up in the picture. Cheers and have a nice day.

If the engine cranks the first thing you do is to take a compression test. Next test you can do if you do not have a compressor tester hook up a vacuum gauge to the manifold when the engine is running. It tells a myriad story of the engine condition. you can also set the idle mixture and carburetor by using a vacuum gauge. A backfire is usually a symptom of leaking intake for various reason ( sticky tappets) Try some carburetor cleaner or transmission fluid into the carb when the engine is running at a fast clip to prevent stalling. Sometimes if there is a sticky valve it clears up. You did not state how long the engine sat, however if it sat for a long time the above mentioned method is worth a try. As a retired mechanic the first thing I would do is a compression test. You cannot beat that. The video of the engine running sounds like a helicopter and shakes as if it has ague fever or being rocked by an earthquake. I shall be looking forward to hear how your project is going. Cheer and good luck.

Steering, brakes and tyres are key to safe motoring. Even in modern motoring tyre life, technically, is five years when tiny cracks begin to appear often goes unnoticed. With todays technology the motorist can squeeze a little more out .Those little ball sockets develops flat spots we tend to overlook. There is a cup like washer inside the tube, then the ball socket goes in, then a cup like washer, a heavy coil spring then a plug. Do not forget the cotter pin, I would dissemble the steering box and completely rebuild. Disassemble your king pins and repair and service as needed. Check your springs for equal l height, including shackles and bushings CHANGE THOSE TYRES AND THEN HAVE IT ALIGNED. OLD KNEEACTION SHOCKS WORKS FINE IF PROPERLY REPAIRED OR CHANGE TO MODERN TYPE SHOCKS. We tend to forget that these parts wear out. There is no magic to it. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. Do not depend on what the previous guy did. Check it your self. Cheers and have a nice day.

Thank you helfen, It is nice to hear from enthusiast of their experience. This is what this forum is all about. I shall keep you all posted as I progress. Cheers and have a nice day. Harry

Hi Guys, Thank you all for the advice and comments. I figure it makes good sense to change an 90 year old ignition coil and the spark plugs. Napa still supplies after market replacement. I would have liked to see the original coil and plugs go forever just to keep it original. Some things must change. The problem was the throttle lever on the steering wheel. I actuated the high speed pump causing the flood. I put the throttle lever in low, cleaned the flooding, pulled the choke and the engine started and ran long enough for me to adjust the needle behind the carburetor bowl to a nice idle. A little high R P.M . Lots of white smoke for a while but it all went away after ten minutes. The oil pressure at around 800 rpm is 50 lbs. and the charge rate is 30 amps. That is at the top of the gauge. I am elated. The throttle lever is fickle at best and I still have to learn how to use it so as not to flood the carb. The engine has the wrong fan belt, too long. I am thinking of replacing with "link belt".

Hi Fellow enthusiast, any advice on rust inhibitors ? I see some products advertised in the U.S. It claims to be gas proof, crack proof and can be painted on rust to prevent further rusting. The problem is it cannot be shipped into Canada by U.S.P.S. or U.P.S for security reasons. The next best thing is POR 15 which available in Canada. MY QUESTION IS HAS ANY ONE USED THIS PRODUCT AND IS IT WHAT THE MANUFACTURER CLAIMS IT TO BE ? I looking forward for some comments. If you do not feel comfortable on the forum please feel free to send comments to hsahu@tcn.net Cheers. Harry

Hi Nick, any possibility finding me a rim in Australia ? Tyre size is 600/650x19. Use 6 bolts .The width of the rim is 4 and 1/4ins. wide. I will pay all expenses. Elise Pakeman in Australia used to re produce them but he has ceased operation because of health reasons. I think his email is elisepakeman.com.au. What a loss. Is there any one who is enterprising enough to get his machinery to continue production ? Cheers.

Hi Rusty,you are right on the ball. There are certain basic steps to be taken for poor running even in modern cars. Check gas in tank and getting to the carburetor, Check for spark at the ends of high tension wire and at plugs outside of engine. THE FIRST AND FOREMOST CHECK COMPRESSION. It is a must for every tune up. HOW ELSE CAN YOU TELL THE HEALTH OF THE ENGINE ? Poor compression ? Start tearing apart. Most electrical problems are because of bad grounds especially on 6 volts system GROUND, GROUND, GROUND. CLEAN, CLEAN. CLEAN. Solder all terminals if possible.

Sometimes most G,M. cars parts can be interchanged. The Filling Station sells brakes conversions kit and may be able to at least guide you. Google The Filling Station. Good Luck

Just a thought. Land Rover came out with a damper, looks like a shock, bolted on the drag link to the frame to prevent the steering from "dancing" Just may be a gadget like that may help.

Changing from 6 volts to 12 volts is not the best deal unless you are a little technically savvy. Most times the reason for doing so is hard starting. The battery cables should be 1 zero or better 2 zero in size with clean connections and grounds. I prefer to have the terminals soldered. Change the ignition coil too to 12 volts. The voltage to the gauges must be reduced to 6 . Do a compression test. There is an inherent problem with flat head motors .If the engine sat for too long the gasket tends to deteriorate between # 3 cylinder and #4 cylinder. Some time the cylinder head bolts passes through the water jacket which helps to speed up malfunction. So you get compression simultaneously in both cylinders. A compression test will determine that. Use a vacuum gauge while the engine is running. The first thing I would try is empty a quart of the engine oil and replace it with transmission oil. Start the engine and run, Transmission oil helps to loosen sticky valve and free passages. If successful drain oil and replace. The alternative is obvious. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. Hope this help.

Hi Spinneyhill, I am attacking the rotten lumber on the hood. Quite challenging but not insurmountable. The old wood is all shrivelled and twisted in places and rotted in some places. It is many pieces stuck together into recessed area. For the uninitiated it is frightening to say the least. To laminate and glue and at the same time installing. Needs lots of patience. I have a little extra of it. Check with you later. Harry.

I will check out the bore .There must be something wrong some where. It does not work by magic. I have to do a lot of tweaking as yet. I have to learn how to start the engine without flooding the carb. The oil pressure is 15 lbs. at idle. I think it is too high. At about 1000 R.P.M. the generator charges about 20 amps. Cheers and have a nice day. Will keep you posted.

Hi DodgeKCL, Now I know what you are talking about. The wood rail on the sides are 2 pieces with holes for the cross rails, stuck together. I was able to remove the 1/4 nuts and pull the under strip off. The wood is actually solid but the glue became loose over the years I put all the pieces together and glued it back. Some of the cross rails are twisted and will be replaced at the same time. The piece above the windshield is completely rotted . I realised it was made in 3 pieces and I am able to put pieces together, try them for fit before finally gluing together. The sheet metal inside has some surface rust which is hard to reach for cleaning in some places. Do you think the P O R !5 is good for the rust? The engine started with the B B 1. The needle at the lower back of the carburetor is responsive but the Air idle screw is making no difference. At about 1000 R. P. M. the oil pressure is at the top of the gauge, 50 lbs. and the ammeter reads 20 . That is at the top of the gauge too. The engine sounds like music.I will keep you posted. Cheers and have a nice day.

I am looking for 2 - 3 wire sockets for head lamps. Please email hsahu@tcn.net Cheers

Need sun visor for a 1928 Dodge Brothers Senior. hsahu@tcn.net

Hi 29ratrod I am looking for a rim, the tyre size 600/650 x19 . Can you send me a picture of the gas gauge and speedometer please. Thank you. hsahu@tcn.com

I do not know for sure if my 1928 steering is the same style but your left over portion seems familiar. I can send you dimensions and picture . The levers for the ignition and spark advance are reproduced in Au. Have fun. Cheers.

Thank you all fellow enthusiasts. Coil problems has been solved by replacing with an Echlin. New condenser and spark plugs. Autolite still makes a spark plug, T 11 new number (2070). Cost Can 3.35 each from Napa. I appreciate the tips and encouragement from you all. Thank you again. Cheers and have a nice day.

Hi Dave , I am working on a 1928 D.B. Senior with a 6 cylinder engine. the original coil tested open. The pigtail wire from the "in" terminal inside the distributor burnt out, so you know what that means, "shorted condenser" I replaced the coil and condenser and fixed the pigtail. The engine is running rich with lots of white smoke and the tailpipe is slightly oily. That oil is what I put in the cylinders to free it. Lots of it. The carburetor needs setting up right. It is a Carter B.B. 1. When I get that done I will run it for about an hour and a half to burn of all the oil I put in and also residue on the exhaust and elsewhere. What bothers me now is the oil gauge registers 50 and the needle shoots up to maximum 50 this evening when I ran it for about 5 minutes. Before that it was 30 pounds, then 40 pounds and now 50. There are no resistors any where, Not even a safety fuse. Cheers and have a nice day.

I guess the voltage you are looking for is the output high voltage from the center of the coil. If I remember it should be about 3000 volts max. The 12 volt coils should be about 4000 volts.(that is pre electronics days) If your voltmeter can read that high get an assistant to crank and you set up the meter. It should register a voltage. I usually check 12 volt coil by hooking it up to a battery on the bench. Quickly touch the battery wire to the coil. The spark is a loud click. This is not so with a 6 volt. I am currently having the same situation with my 28 Senior 6. With a brand new 6 v Echlin coil I tried the same test and barely got a spit. I think all 6 volts operates the same way but they fire the plugs. My Echlin replacement is working fine. Cheers and good luck.

Hi Ben, S51041 is the serial # on the engine. A senior 6. I am not ruling out anything in the engine. It is cranking bump, bump, bump, (not a steady smooth spin) as if the battery is weak even when the engine is cold and the spark plugs out. But the battery is new and charged. I strongly suspect it is a re condition and not a rebuild engine. The oil pressure is 30 pounds. The engine has an oil pump. I am going to run it a little more to see if it will loosen up and take it from there. The vacuum pump is fine. I serviced it. A little tricky though. I shall keep you posted. Cheers.

Hi cben09, thank you for the advice. I have one. I followed the instruction. Repaired with new gasket. This one is large with one gasket only. I will have to find a way to do a bench test. I think I should change the flap because the old one has a tiny grove. After isolating the vacuum line at the manifold and done all the tweaking on the carburetor the engine started but did not run long enough to do final setting. The air idle mixture is not responding. The engine still wants a little bit of choke to stay running on idle. When the engine is shut off it will not crank immediately after. It has to cool down a bit. Radiator is full and there is really no overheat. The engine has been rebuilt by the previous owner over 20 years ago and never started. After pouring oil in the cylinders and leaving for weeks I had to use a 3 feet pipe on the wrench to turn over the engine. I is now easier to turn. I am making progress. I am using a Carter B. B. 1. The oil pressure on idle is 30 pounds and at fast speed is 40 pounds. Can you tell me what the idle speed is ? Cheers mate and have a nice day.

Thank you, The vacuum tank is still in the original state .I will not modify anything because I like the originality. The engine had bee rebuilt about 20 years ago and never started because the previous owner did not have the right carburetor, I got a reproduction UX_2. It is working fine now. It emits a bit of white smoke . Now that the engine is running I will connect the vacuum tank. No more flooding issues .Whenever I use the choke a little drop of fuel comes through the bleed hole , I think that is normal. I am very excited to hear the engine run. I take your advice .Cheers and have a nice day