raydurr

I have a recently rebuilt 1929 Buick mechanical fuel pump available for sale. Does your engine have provisions for mounting a mechanical fuel pump? It is on left side,above oil pan rail and just ahead of the flywheel housing.

1930 40 Series heads are still out there. I believe a 1929 head will work. 1929 parts seem more plentiful. be sure to locate your other parts at the same time. Bolts, studs, gaskets, etc.

My initial concern of using ball bearings in the valve train is that the bearing lacks the ability to endure the impact that valve train components must endure, largely due to valve lash. I have seen bearing races shatter due to impact and shock loading , a non ferrous bushing would have survived. Softer metals such as brass, bronze and copper wear faster BUT they are superior in absorbing impact loading.

The 1929 Buick uses a unusual sized fuel filler cap. I'm not sure what other applications used the same size and configuration. I don't have a Stant part number to assist in your search. Bobs Automobilia used to have those caps available. Tony Bult may have one.

Jessers Classic Keys can supply the old Briggs and Statton blanks. I dont recall what number the blank is. The retainer pin may have already been drilled. Have you attempted to lift the cylinder out with a sharp pick? Be careful as those lock cylinders are hard to find.

I could be wrong, but the hole shown under the lock originally had a pin which retains the lock cylinder. Once the pin is drilled out, the lock cylinder can be removed. Once removed, a locksmith can easily cut a new key for you.

If it were me I would do the easiest thing first which is remove the differential cover to look for a snapped axle or other damaged parts.

I am happy to hear that you reached a simple solution to you clutch problems. These clutches are durable but difficult to replace. Old timers had some crude yet simple solutions to problems such as this. Have fun!

I have been told that Then and Now Automotive in Weymouth MA. Does a nice job. Lets us know how it goes.

About 35 years ago I remember my grandfather describing clutch grab in his 1929 Buick. His solution was to stop up the drain slot in the bell housing and fill the bell housing with " coal oil". He would let sit for a little while , push in and out on the clutch pedal a few times and finally drain the fluid from the bell housing. He said that clutch would be smooth as silk for a year or two afterwards. I have considered doing this myself lately. I am not suggesting this as a remedy, merely passing on a story of what occurred probably 85 years ago. Good luck!

Hello I am at a dead end on identifying a headlamp lense. It is marked TWOLITE HEADLAMP. It has the usual patent numbers. The part number was omitted. There are dimensions shown in one of the photos. Any help would be appreciated.

I do have a question. Was your speedometer working before the incident? If so, have you checked to see if it works now when attempting to move the car forward? If speedometer operates, yet car wont move , then the failure is from the u joint back. Just an easy way to help isolate the power interruption.

Maybe I missed something in the previous comments. If your car is like my 1929 Buick it has a removable differential cover. If so it can be removed in no time. Usually 15 minutes. Far less time than fooling with removal of other components. Place car on jackstands ,remove the rear cover and run the car in gear. See if the pinion gear is turning or not. I have a feeling that your failure is in the differential or rear axle shaft related. Sure it can be the clutch , transmission, ujoint or driveashaft. Your differential oil probably needs changed anyhow.

Hello My 1929 Buick does not have a pressurized cooling system. I tend to run my coolant level to where it just covers the top of the radiator tubes. The coolant expands with heat and can overflow if too full. The owners before me had discarded the original thermostat. I can assure you that they are next to impossible to find in good working condition. I added a 1-1/2" inline thermostat from Restoration Supply in Escondido California to my top radiator hose. The reason that I added is to prevent the coolant from "foaming" out of the top of the radiator. If my car is operated without a thermostat, this will occur due to the unrestricted and violent flow of coolant at higher engine speeds. My car stopped the foaming immediately after adding the thermostat. Good Luck

Originally it probably used SAE 30wt. My 1929 tends to like 40wt.( oil pressure wise anyways). I currently use modern 15W-40 diesel engine oil. Since my 1929 has roller cam followers , I am not concerned with adding zinc. Im pretty sure the diesel 15w-40 oils have high zinc already.

I have encountered improper valve adjustment that kills power and causes difficult starting, while hot, two different times over the years. In both cases hot valve lash was too tight. When the engine heated up, the valves were slightly open . Opened the lash up and a perfect running engine came back. I think it was due to valve and seat wear that causes the valve lash to go away. One was on a fairly fresh rebuild the other was a very high hour industrial engine. Each engine started and ran normal when cold. After sustained load, power went down , the engines chocked down and died easily. Wouldn't start when hot. Let them cool 30-60 minutes and engines cames right back to life. At first I suspected old ignition components.

My generator cutout has stuck open a few times. A brisk tap or two always fixed that. I suppose a brush could be stuck inside the generator.

That 20 year old gauge will look out of place on a 100 year old car.

Many early AC fuel pump used a screen above the sediment bowl. The cars that i worked on had already had it removed. Restoration Supply Escondido CA has a screen intended for the sediment bowl.

Hello. Shown is the link that may list the parts that you need. However I am not suggesting that you purchase these parts as much as I am suggesting that you use the application list to source parts from a later and much easier to find wheel cylinder. Many new replacement wheel cylinders are under $10. In that case, if the new wheel cylinder contained the correct pistons, you could throw the cylinder housing away and have the new parts that you need.Just a thought. Good luck. https://www.oldsobsolete.com/products-page/chevy-parts-for-sale/1951-chevrolet-parts-for-sale/1936-1969-general-motors-nos-brake-rear-wheel-cylinder-repair-kit-gm-5467284/

I do not believe that there is a restrictor. I am almost positive that it is a oil drain back line that lubricates the timing gears.

Hello. I am about to replace my door glasses. I have looked at the Steele companies offerings related to the door glass. Have any of you replaced your door glasses? If so which of the channels and other parts were required to do so? Were there any tricks required? I am hoping for a straight forward and easy job.

Hello there Bill! I knew the two had differences but you have helped again. Thank you.

Hello Does anyone happen to know the correct casting number for the water pump for a 29 Master?