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Everything posted by raydurr

  1. Does it lose oil pressure after a hard RH turn? My 1929 does this every time I make a hard right turn. I just let engine go to idle and pressure is restored within a few seconds. I now avoid this. By the way, my pan is clean, pump and pickup screen have been serviced.
  2. My 29 runs around 28 PSI above idle, hot or cold. I think 25 PSI with the 1925s would be enough to run an external oil filter and still adequate oil to the rockers. Something to consider.
  3. Brian , how much oil pressure is normal for the 1925 Buicks? Just curious.
  4. Even though my 29 has a oil filter I still epoxied a magnet to my drain plug. This will only capture the ferrous metals and no babbit or other contaminants. I would change the break in oil after several cycles of how the engine will ultimately be used. Oil will probably need to be changed at least once a year due to moisture buildup in the crankcase. Aside from that I would probably change it anytime it begins to change color or hue. I agree with the theory of oil is cheap. When in doubt, change it.
  5. Yes, as Mark stated the heat riser tube can cause total chaos in the tuning and performance department. The heat riser repair and elimination of exhaust gas to it , is a little story of its own.
  6. I have a 1929 Master so I am familiar with your issue. Even though this condition could be many things , there are a few things one can do to try to isolate the cause. The wonderful Marvel carburetors can be a pain. I usually do not choose the easy route in life. I do prefer the challenge of originality in this area. My Marvel sometimes tends to run lean and pop back through the carburetor under acceleration or heavy load . When warmed up and under load , I can correct this by slightly and progressively closing the choke until full power can be made. If this corrects the problem it proves one thing. It proves that the ignition is working well enough to make power. It also proves that fuel delivery is adequate to make power. The issues that remain causing this lean condition are probably blocked jets , carb venture sticking / being limited in travel or the venture spring not being correct or incorrectly adjusted. I still sometimes have issues getting my carburetor to work correctly. Sometimes the enrichment circuit that the plunger is lifted out of can be a problem too. If choking of the carburetor under load has no affect on performance then ignition and fuel delivery can be an issue. One last thing is to always do your tuning with fuel that is fresh as possible.
  7. As a long time owner of a 1929 Master (29-41) I can attest to the durability and bold design in the manufacture of these cars. The 1929 and the 1930 are almost identical underneath the sheet metal. The engines were probably the most heavy duty of any cars of this era. Buick supplied its engines to GMC Truck , American LaFrance and many others that require longevity. Many sawmills were Buick powered as the dependability made them extremely sought after. The chassis was built like a tank as well. If you are considering purchasing one there are quite a few thigs to consider . First is completedness. Too many missing or damaged parts can add up to exceed the value of the car. Body, especially the wood , ie. top bows, door post, etc. replacement of these are painstaking . These cars can be made into a solid, dependable driver quite easily. There is a wealth of information on the forum, ask away.
  8. The exhaust manifold casting number on my 1929 Master is 214604-3. I would be willing to bet that the 1929 and the 1930 use the same part. 1929 parts are more plentiful. I would toss it and locate a solid replacement. They are out there. Be sure to lube the gaskets and use the correct washers to secure the manifolds, otherwise you will be doing this again.
  9. What is the casting number on the exhaust manifold?
  10. If same as a 1929 Master shouldn't be too difficult to find. Be 100% sure that you go back with the correct cupped or beveled washer that hold the manifold to the engine. Do not overtorque. I even "lube" both sides of the gaskets. Id rather change gaskets than manifolds.
  11. Hello Turbo. Tony can be reached at tonybuick272829@gmail.com. Tony may speak Deutsch.
  12. The pump should fit 1929-1930 Franklin models 130,135,137,145 and 147. AC PN 5085.
  13. Call Tony Bult at 262-275-6403. He specializes in 29 Buick parts. He has had numerous 1928 Buick parts too.
  14. My 1929 had a paper thin gasket there. It wont really matter because your u joint ball area is always going to leak. They all do.
  15. You may need to properly identify your carburetor before ordering any parts. Your car does not have a 1928 engine as it has a mechanical fuel pump. The mounting pattern of the fuel pump makes me think the engine is a 1930. Tony Bult 262-275-6403 can rebuild , test and adjust your carburetor. He is great on Buicks of this era.
  16. 1929 Buick fuel pump completely rebuilt. Tested and ready to install. Ready for modern fuels. $525.00 +shipping. Ray Durrett 936.635.7777.
  17. Waldrons exhaust supplies some prebent systems.
  18. I would try this. Mount the horn in a vise. Connect negative lead to the horn body. Use a small non metal tool or something to hold the points open. Apply 6 volts to the input terminal. Then manually open and close the points to see if any sound is produced or better yet the points begin to cycle. Look for any damage to the metal disc/diaphrams. There should be a tension adjustment screw to adjust . The horns are usually simple to revive.
  19. It wouldn't cost much to play with different oil viscosities. Sometimes really heavy oil can improve shifting , sometimes the trannys like lighter oil.
  20. Bob, does your horn have contact points? I have had them stick which produces a short. I have un-stuck them and adjusted them in the past .
  21. Refer to www.29buick.ca . Go to photo gallery, repairs, then fuel pump info / repairs. This will show you how the fuel pump push rod is installed in the engine. The 1929 and 1930 engines are the same in the respect of push rod. By the way it appears that your fire truck has a 1930 Buick engine in it due to the mounting bolt pattern. Coat it with a heavy grease and slide it in. The grease will prevent it from sliding back out.
  22. If your oil pan has a riveted in place drain plug bung like my 1929 Buick has it can be easily repaired. even though the bung is riveted in place, it leaks where the solder has lost its seal. When you have your pan off take to a radiator shop. They can "sweat" the solder between the pan body and the bung. It takes maybe 10-15 minutes. This stopped my pesky leak at the drain plug .
  23. A cracked block is not always the end of an engine. On these you also need to remove the large pushrod covers on the RH side. Freeze cracks occur there as well. Even though it would be quite a task , I do believe that a 1929 Master engine will go in its place. A 331 inch engine vs. a 309 inch. 1929 engines seem to be far more common to locate. I would even consider first removing the rods and pistons then removing the cylinders off the crankcase , leaving it in the car. With the cylinders off the crankcase it could be thoroughly stripped and cleaned , making a professional , permanent repair possible. I already know that the water jackets around the cylinders are packed with heavy rust and crud.
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