Plyroadking

My 57 international A120 4x4 has that bolt pattern, I couldn't find a rear drum so I swapped in 3/4 ton 70s gm axles. Originally they had spilt rims, somewhere sometime before I bought it 3 single piece rims found their way onto the truck. I'm not sure if 3 wheels will help you out but I'm not going to use them

Do not use a standard insurance company for your classics, their "agreed value policies" are a full load of c$@p! I had that kind of policy on one of my classics and was involved in a wreck where the other driver was 100% at fault. His insurance company, progressive, offered pennies on the dollar for what I had into my car. They couldn't find a comparable car to justify the amount of my "agreed value" policy and suggested I total the car out for the value that State Farm "agreed" to with the agreed value policy that I set up on that car with a value that we mutually agreed to in the event of a total loss. I called my agent up and asked for a check for the full agreed value of the car since it was deemed a total loss. I was informed that they would be sending an adjuster out to determine the value of the car and they'd gladly write me a check for what he thought it was worth. We went around and around about the point of an "agreed value policy" Long story short, I took it in the rear from progressive on the car value and then returned the favor on the injury caim. I talked with guys in the club and researched collector car insurance companies. Hagerty was 2.5 times what Grundy wanted for the identical coverage. I kicked the "good neighbor" to the curb and switched to Grundy for their better service, and I pay them 1/3 what I was giving to State Farm. Grundy is very flexible about driving the cars and only asks that you don't drive it to work every day of the week. None of mine are modified so that might make a difference. The downside is that you have to park it in a garage every night.

Have a set of 1957 A120 axles in 4.10 ratios, also have three 16" single piece wheels and several 16" spilt rims in the 6x7.25 lug pattern. Make offer, I don't want to scrap them but also don't really want to store them either. Located in Des Moines IA

I thought they had two grooves?

Probably something about like this

If there is one around you I've heard Fastenal will haul it from one of their stores to another store very reasonable when they have a truck heading that way

I had a set of firestones on another car, the black base sidewall oil also leached through the whitewall rubber, plus they wore out very quickly. I think I got around 7k miles before they were bald, the BF Goodrichs that are on the car now have 12k miles and are about 70-75% worn

I drive my 30 Plymouth around Des Moines regularly, it makes my commute much more enjoyable to just motor around at the posted speed limits. I did add a period correct accessory stoplight, not that it helps much when the drivers behind me are trying to figure out what I'm pointing up at when I hand signal a right turn. We've had a couple close calls but I just expect everyone to pull out in front of the car when they see it coming.

You're correct that 28-29's had the thermo syphon, however they also had different heads and the "lower" radiator hose came off the side of the drivers side of the block just below the head.

Yes they are in series, 12v for lights and the starter and 6v for the heater motors, radio, and fuel gauge

I'd say it's watching out for all the idiots that assume since your car is old it is also slow and that it can give 9 cents change on dime stops.

As a younger member this DPC has increased my desire to attend a national meet. I have a lot of respect for the time and money spent on a 100+ point car and I feel it disrespects the owner of such a car when I park my mutt of a driver next to it at a show. I have made several of the modifications listed that are acceptable in this class to my cars. I draw a very heavy line at altering stance and body lines, but on the other hand it is a very nice improvement to add radial tires, an overdrive, and bolt on front disc brakes. I imagine that someday as my collection grows I will be able to graduate some of my daily drivers to a more authentic example of the car, but until then I'll keep driving at least one of them a day.

This is getting fun! I've ran across two different transmissions and parking brake styles, yours is new to me. You have the later style Detroit ball and trunion u joints vs the rubber/fiber flex discs. Not a big deal but I've never seen another besides mine and my spare. Anyway, the first picture is the two case styles I've ran across, the greasy one is from a 30 Desoto and matches the one in my 30 Plymouth, the rusty one is from a 1928 to some 30 Plymouths. The second picture is the "typical" 28-30 case but with the ball and trunion u joints. The 3rd picture is the one in my car. None of the parking brakes I have look like they will work on your car, maybe you have a Chrysler or truck transmission? I've seen those cast brake band arms on 35-38 plymouth transmissions but I doubt that you have something that new as the input shafts changed some time between 30 and 35. I'm not to sure where to tell you to go from here, but if there's anything I can do don't hesitate to ask

Not even a hole cut in the floor board either, if Keiser31 doesn't have everything I might be able to dig up a piece or two. Nice looking car!

A lot of my friends find it hard to believe but I just have the phone, don't really see the need for a computer when I can get ebay, Craigslist, and forums on my phone, guess I'll just have to remember y'alls names....

Nope that was it, it just doesn't show up when I look at posts, and I did tap the "show other's signatures" could be a "smart" phone issue. Thanks!

Why doesn't my signature show up on my post?

Sounds like a good idea

Here is how I did it on my 41

Ok, but the port on the carb that it is connected to does not see manifold vacuum until you start to open the throttle, aside from not advancing the timing the blown advance diaphragm was just allowing air to bypass the air filter on your carb. Another place to look for a vacuum leak at idle is around the throttle shaft, they get ovaled out after many years of use and start to allow air in. I chased that on mine for quite a bit longer than I'd like to admit.

If my understanding is correct, the vacuum advance does not pull a vacuum from the intake manifold. There is a small port above the throttle butterfly that advance gets its vacuum from. The advance diaphragm being bad is a good find however it shouldn't be the potential vacuum leak that's causing you issues.

It always surprised me how many people gather around to watch you hand crank your car. Several years ago when I was having generator cut out issues with my 1930 plymouth I would occasionally crank start it when a hill wasn't readily available. Last summer the head light switch was bumped on when I got out of the car, when I went to crank the car an elderly man stopped and couldn't believe that he was going to watch a "kid" crank start a car. Fortunately she started after the first pull.

He's been trying to sell a friend a set of 1929 plymouth fenders, I generally assume if you're an "old car" person you know that's not how car parts deals work.

An elderly friend mentioned something about this to me several years ago. There is an obscure clause in the ca dmv codes that says something along the lines of "if you are a collector of vintage cars and have several of them you have the same status of a dealership and are not responsible for any back fees or penalties on collector vehicles you purchase " I recall him saying that he's educated multiple dmv desk persons about this.

I like fog lights, anything that helps light up the road at night is a good idea to me. But then I also drive one of my older cars whenever I go somewhere.