Plyroadking

Bought the Dodge a couple weeks ago, had been sitting since the 80's. The international had been sitting for "a couple" years, took half a day to get it out of the yard and on the trailer.

I think when I registered it was the firing order of a flathead six and passenger side lug nut direction. It's a nice forum once you get in

There should be a metal track on top of the windshield glass, it has two handle looking things that the dowels on the crank fit into. This may be incorrect as I have seen other cars with the levers in different positions. The first lever picture is with the headlights off. The lights are the right lever and hand throttle is the top. The throttle rotates clockwise to increase engine rpms. Second is the parking lights position, you rotate it counterclockwise. Third is low beams, you rotate clockwise past the "off" position. Forth is highbeams.

The windshield actually cranks up a couple inches into the visor. I've got a loose one laying around that I can take some pictures of for you, I can also snap a couple pictures of the steering wheel levers, one controls the lights and the other is a hand throttle

4 or 5 years ago I hopped in my 1940 plymouth and drove from Des Moines to San Francisco in two days. Three days prior I just finished putting the engine together. I drove it around out there a lot for my summer internship, even took a road trip through Yosemite with it. After the internship was over I drove it back out to Iowa. Never really had any problems.

Thanks! I put a 5spd stick in one of mine, very insignificant mpg difference between the th400 but I no longer rev the 454 out at 70mph. I thought about trying a Cummings swap on the winter truck but in a few more years there won't be much left from the salty roads. The winter truck was "totaled" a little over a year ago, I took the insurance money and bought the black one to replace it till I got the totaled one back together. My wife fell in love with driving it so apparently it's staying. Why the jeep tcase?

Significantly different, also I didn't realize those turbos needed what looks like a compressed air water separator?? I learned something!!!

I do the same thing every time I open a hood on something modern, just stand there and scratch my head.

I was thinking I'd relocate the shifter and rails back till the top was flush with the front of the transmission so it potentially would fit better in my '30 sedan. Got to looking at the difference between the input shafts of the 30 and 39 boxes and decided I'd figure something else out. I came across a 36 R6 and might try that one instead as I like the fully mechanical overdrive better.

It had the column shift top on it, I put a floor shift top on it

I don't have my R6 unit apart yet to be certain, but on my '39 R7 the transmission internals were the same as the '36 plymouth standard transmission internals.

That's impressive, I'll to try that

I'm installing them in most all of my cars, we're expecting our first son in a couple months. I drive my old cars daily during the unsalted seasons and want his car seat attached to something structural on the vehicles. In our wooden structure car he will ride in the front as there's not much between the bumper and the rear seat. Plus can you imagine the can of worms I'd open if I was to get pulled over with a unrestrained infant?

I went with Grundy, they were less than half the cost of identical coverage from Hagerty, also a friend has Grundy on his car. He had a check for his agreed value amount 5 days after his car was totalled

I had state farm's "agreed value" policies on all of my classics. 3 years ago a guy made a right on red and we rear-ended him. Officer assigned him 100% at fault. He had progressive and we dicked around to the point that they finally suggested I total it out on my state Farm "agreed value policy" and then let state Farm go after Flo to get their money back. I called my agent and asked them to send me my check for our "agreed value" dollar amount minus the buy back amount. Now I didn't have the car overvalued, we had "agreed" on $8,500 as the amount in the event of it being totalled. Less than I had in it, but fair. They said they'd have to have it appraised to determine the actual value of the car, then they'd give me the amount it appraised for, irregardless of our previously "agreed value" I'd already had a classic car appraiser come out and appraise the wrecked car months prior and had already started repairing the car. Since I chose the appraiser and it appraised for almost double the policy value they wouldn't accept that appraisal. Shorty there after we got a lawyer involved, we took Flo's insulting offer on the car and made up for it on my wife's injury. A week later I switched insurance companies for our classics to a company that is supposed to honor our agreed value.

Not to be argumentative, but that's how Flo from progressive came to determine the value of my "totaled" 40 plymouth when their driver caused the wreck. They couldn't find any comparables that were similarly equipped or even the same year. They offered exactly the amount that my receipts totaled to plus what I paid for the car. I wasn't as religious as I should have been with keeping receipts and took the offer and made up the loss on the injury claim.

It's insured just as every other vehicle is in the neighborhood that sits outside, it just has everything else suspended. For value I've been collecting Craigslist and ebay ads every time something comparable comes along, asking prices are $3,500- $5,500ish. There's a fully restored one for $50k that's been for sale for at least a year. I have $2,500 total in mine, half of that is wheels and tires. A coworker has offered $6,500 for the truck once I finish the power steering/brakes addition and some wiring. But I'm not really interested in selling it. I'm not worried about someone stealing parts, mostly just the whole truck or a tornado. The way the it was explained to me if the truck were stolen they'd find a comparable for determining a value. Since they only wanted 1 picture of the truck there's no possible way they have anyway to know what I had. So they said they'd go off of my receipts for a value. (Still no way to prove that the receipts are actually for parts I actually put on that truck) with my previous experience with them it's probably a line of BS just like their "agreed value policies" but I learned from last time and wrote emails rather than just phone conversations. They said once I'm ready to take it on the street to let them know and they'll reinstate liability and collision. As for bodywork, I'm not even going to wash it. I like the Moss and liken growing on it. Also the main reason St Farm won't do an "agreed value policy " on it. My plans are to finish getting it road worthy this spring, reinstate the full coverage with State Farm and switch it to my classic car insurance company once I get another garage built to park it in.

I've thought about that but with the wind we get here they don't last very long

That's what I'm doing, if it were stolen or damaged during a tornado/hail/fire I'd like to get my investment returned. It's insured with a State Farm standard vehicle full coverage policy with everything but the comprehensive coverage suspended. They regularly do it and did it for my other cars before I took my classics elsewhere after learning my "agreed value policy" wasn't worth the paper it was printed on. If it's a total loss, they'll appraise it and give me that amount or add up my receipts and reimburse me for that amount.

I've got my 1957 International pickup with State Farm, comprehensive only until I get it drivable. No fake "agreed value" BS, just comprehensive, it's $19 every 6 months. If something were to happen to it they'll send out an appraiser to determine total loss value, or "go off my stack of receipts and reimburse me my expenses" I did have to get a "full policy" I just had them suspend the collision, liability, and whatever other coverages they throw on, but left the comprehensive activated.

Since I was home schooled through high school I didn't really have much of a commute. In 1995 my parents bought a 1930 Plymouth for a family restoration and industrial arts project. I did most of the monotonous work on it and my father, grandfather, and I finished it when I was 17. I put over 15k miles on the car in the next 5 years and never left town with it. I needed something faster and bought a 1940 Plymouth two door in Denver in 2006. It was a "20k original mile" car that only needed the blown Dodge truck motor replaced, a trans cluster gear, and all new front suspension. I drove it to the local junior college almost every day. I transferred to the main campus about 40 miles away and continued to drive the several times a week. I had a tiny glass pack on it and enjoyed idling through the parking lot and setting off car alarms. It was a really nice commute when I stumbled upon and installed a 1955 Plymouth overdrive transmission. In 2009 I bought a 1986 Chevy K30 pickup because I was moving to Iowa to attend a university. I tow dollied the '40 out with me. I continued to drive the car daily till they start putting salt out for the ice. It served me well but the engine was getting tired again. I rebuilt one spring then a couple days later I drove out to CA for an internship. Made the trip in two days and only had to adjust the od kickdown switch once. I've still got all of them, they are currently hiding in storage waiting till this salted season is over. I reset the odometer on the '40 when I bought the car, she's reading just over 75k miles now and hopefully has a lot more to go. Maybe one of my future children will drive them to school someday.

From what little I overheard from the technical department at the tire factory I worked at. The discoloration is the oils from the black rubber leaking through the barrier and seeping through the white walls. We made "all pink" tractor tires for breast cancer awareness. It was still black inner liner and black rubber calendered around the nylon cord for the plys. They applied a cheaper quality layer of barrier material and then applied the pink tread and sidewall rubber, white rubber that had a pink pigment added. They looked good for a week or so then the black started leaching through.

Looking at their write up on the Web page it sounds pretty good. I switched from State Farm to Grundy and couldn't believe the savings. I talked with several of their representatives trying to find the reason they're so "cheap" mostly boiled down to that they presume you don't drive your cars much. I'm not sure if Chrome does it, but by your username I imagine your Buick has wood in it and Grundy covers termite damage. The one thing I don't like is that Grundy wants the cars parked in a secure building every night even when you're on a tour.

And what about the bicycles we're supposed to "share the road" with?

Burned through a set of rear tires on my '40 plymouth doing the same thing in the CA snow. Now in iowa and I hide the cars from the salt/brine they spread out here, tires last a lot longer