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Plyroadking

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Everything posted by Plyroadking

  1. 1929 and 1931 should also be the same. I think I've got a couple intakes. Exhaust is hard to find.
  2. Does he want NOS or is he willing to try used? Also does he have a mechanical fuel pump on it?
  3. There's one for sale on the p15d24 forum for $1,000
  4. I've paid between $150-500 for them whenever I can find them, durn near tore my pocket off trying to get my wallet out faster. I've seen them sell up to $2500.
  5. 1930 Rugby, a 1930 Star made by Durant for export I believe
  6. Mines a 1957, not a golden jubilee, complete, non-running then, and 4x4. The 4x4 probably makes it worth less to most other people, I gave $450 for it a year ago and didn't even try to haggle.
  7. I consider myself a "younger" member. I don't really care for most hot rods, can't see the point of a low rider, and really baffled how tack welding a bunch of random s#!+ to a spider web with skulls is considered art. I'm also not a purist either depending on the car. I've changed rear gear sets, added overdrives, radials, and bolt on front discs to some of my daily drivers. On my "originals" I try to leave them alone and they're more of an occasional car.
  8. I drove it to college just about every day, when I moved to Iowa though it stays in the garage during the salted season. It sits a lot more now that I've got another driver car running, but anytime I go out of town I'll drive it. I really miss cup holders, and the advancements of defrosters. Almost everyone thinks it's cool that I'm driving an old car, most don't realize that it's driven daily. I was surprised at the number of older people that would come up to admire and talk about the car. A lot of them say I should "fix" it up. I've tried to be reasonable on spending, the interior is worn, the chrome is dull and scratched, and it has some dents and scratches. But I've had a lot more fun with that car then the fully restored ones. I'm not wealthy and I'm stoked on 20mpg, it's almost 3 times as efficient as some of my other vehicles. My current philosophy is to buy a bunch of solid "driver" quality cars, get them running, drive/enjoy them, and collect parts for their restoration in 10 to 40 years.
  9. My two cents, 40-55 plymouth or dodge, I bought my 40 when I was 18, 80k miles and 13 years later and it's still my most reliable and fuel efficient vehicle. The engines are basically interchangeable those years, transmissions will bolt right in, mechanical parts are readily available, and they're just well built cars. I found an overdrive transmission and engine out of a 55 plymouth, a front disc brake kit, and a 3.73 ratio hog head out of a 56 dodge, I run 75 mph comfortably and average 20mpg.
  10. All I've got to do is buy some spray paint and my property value increased 60 grand... one of the nice things about Michael Warshaw's ads is that they really inflate the value of the parts on your wrecked car when you're fighting with insurance.
  11. I had one of those regulators on my 40 plymouth for many miles and years before I thought I needed to switch to 12 volt. I probably went though half a dozen of the new Chinese ones before I found it on a 49 dodge at a junk yard. I still have it and will probably put it on my 50 dodge.
  12. I'm going through the same idea with my 30 Plymouth. I've got a '36 and a '39 Chrysler/Desoto floor shift overdrive transmissions. Biggest issue is that the input shafts are about 4 inches longer than my 30's. Plan B is to cut out a plate for the front of a 50's ford, Chevy, stude, or Kaiser overdrive unit, ditch the transmission part and fab up a bracket to mount it behind the stock transmission. All while not irreversibly altering the originality of the car too much. Simular idea that they do for model As. As for the freewheeling concern you can wire up a governor override switch and keep it locked in overdrive till you stall.
  13. Looks like the ones on my 1930 plymouth, I've got a couple spare front ends I'll measure one next time I'm out in the shed
  14. Yup I bought them, too cheap to pass up plus they are the water and fuel pump engines. Just have to figure out how and where to absorb them into the shed. They are a 196 cu. In. Flat head 4 cylinder
  15. I couldn't agree more with you, it would pair very nicely and create flow with the old wheel balancer and collapsible spare table currently gracing one end of the basement. But I've worn out the welcome of more car parts in the house when I brought in several overdrive transmissions last winter because they looked cold in the garage.
  16. I've ran 15% ethanol in my 1940 for close to 10 years, probably 40-50k miles, mostly because I'm cheap and carry a spare fuel pump just in case. However if the car is going to be sitting awhile I spend the bucks and run a tank of non-ethanol before putting it away. Once and a while I'll add a quart of marvel and do an oil change with a zinc additive.
  17. Thanks Hudsy Wudsy!! My wife is not as appreciative of you as I am......
  18. 1984 chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 with a 4 speed. Grandpa taught me to drive it around the property when I was 8yrs old.
  19. How wide is the material? I've got a couple rolls of stuff
  20. He just wants his piece of your pie when you wash it, lower it, put stupid wheels on it, and make $25k profit on the next episode......
  21. Do the horns work? My 50 dodge is missing it's set
  22. It'd be nice if they did, it's the worst part of the truck, I could expand my search if fords are the same
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