dibarlaw

midman: I collected and restored Atwater Kent Radios for many years before the Buick bug bit me. Atwater Kent was at one time the largest manufacture of radios in the world. They had their start with the manufacture of small electrical appliances in Mass. They started to manufacture ignition systems to replace the early unreliable systems around 1905. By 1920 with other companies supplying original equipment systems (Delco, Eiseman, Bosh, North East etc.) to auto manufacturers they turned to the new technology of radio. Working through radio's 1920s boom years, they were producing over a million radios a year by 1928. They located in Philadelphia where several of the original buildings are still standing. The company went out of business in1935 when the work force wanted to organize. A. Atwater Kent shut the plant down, sold the fixtures and retired to California. He was known a lavish party giver within the movie colony until his death in the late 1940s. He always had a collection of high end cars. At the state museum in Harrisburg PA. there are several of the early (pre 1910) cars which he kept over the years. Keep us posted on the progress of the 96S.

I found this photo of a 1924-45 McLaughlin. John in Virginia has a 1923-45 McLaughlin with the same type of wood combination top sockets. The early photo shows the correct hub caps and radiator badge. (diamond shape)

To nice for words!

The 1924-45 is my favorite 1920s Buick. I bid on one at auction in 2010 and one in 2013. I did not win either. The one in 2010 was a very correct older restoration in great cosmetic shape. It went for $18,000. But the purchaser found out that the engine was locked up! It was sold at his auction last winter apart for $8,500. The new owner has it back on the road. The one from 2013 had an over the top re-restoration with many engine, lighting and material modifications. Still a great looking drivable car. It was not sold as the only bid was for $21,000(mine). They would not accept less than $40K. Looks like this would be a great tour car. What has been done seems to be for the cars driving reliability for the Great Race. If someone wants a representative car of the Great Race this is a great example.

Yes I could use several more. It seems at least 1/2 of all the fasteners on the 1925 are 9/16.

Dave : I love the statement. I Just don't want to be the fellow you write that check to.

Just a photo for Hugh to show what my badly pitted brake lever looked like after powder coating "chrome look". Unfortunately unless the parts are absolutely smooth this is what the result is. It will be much more durable than the chipped black paint that was on it with about 6 coats of filling primer. I would hate to think what a platter would charge to do the proper copper fill/grind/fill to get a smooth coat of nickel. The same reason I have a painted radiator shell. The second photo is after I stripped the paint/primer. To grind all smooth would have made things much to thin and weak. So photos 3 and 4 have a "Hammertone" effect.

As to John's comment on his 1923 McLaughlin. Which is a stunning beautiful car(even if he does not have his straps rolled up) I tried the supplier in Oregon and they had nothing close. I also saw what was available from the Australian supplier and agree with Leif it would have been great if they made both types. A lot of US made cars could use this type of saddle.

Leif can testify that I have tried to find the type of saddles he has on his 1925-25. I have had many dead ends to find anything close. I did mock up several sets to be able support the top in its folded position. Each one proved too weak and bent. I was moving on to a third version even heavier. I believe the former owner of my car did the greatest damage to the gypsy sides by putting the top down without any supports(all the weight on the spare tire). Also with no spacing between the pivot socket and the body and instead of snaps used "lift the dot" studs which have the sides pretty torn up. It was not until I had seen an image of the 1925-25X "Round the World Buick" showing the clamp and the period promotional photo of the 1925-55 Sport Touring that they appear also. I did check the 1925 Book of Parts. There are no illustrations of any type of rest or clamp(only show the rear seat iron pin)but there are the part #s for the top holders as noted by Hugh above. I just purchased a set that look identical to the 1923 Book of parts images. And they even fit my incorrect top! These also lean a bit to the inside.

Was this the car advertised in Hemming's around Lancaster? I was thinking about that myself but am still working on my 1925 Touring. I must stay focused! I believe it had an extra engine. We have a Mason-Dixon Club member who owns a 1927-54 Master Sport Roadster and brings it to our annual car show in Mechanicsburg. Also shown our 1925-25 The other Standard Sport Roadster you mentioned is owned by Susan Manherz. Back when we were "Looking for a Driver Buick" my wife and I also thought about buying that when it was available from the Owls Head Museum in Maine. Because of the distance away we did not pursue it. Oh well we can say we missed 2 of them. A photo of "Homer" at HPOF section Hershey car show last October

Joe : Thank you for the ride. It was thrilling. Larry

Tparts: You really make it tough on a teens Buick lover. If I was not trying to acquire a 1913-31 touring here in PA. I would be making arrangements with you right now for delivery to Chambersburg.

Do you need it for a Standard or Master engine?

Mark: The photos came from me before I sent the brake lever to the powder coater. The overall length is 21 3/8 inches. Larry

Josef Thank you for bringing this up. My 1925-25, 191 cu.in 6cyl is pretty tired and noisy. I will soon be looking at a rebuild and I will go with Mark Shaw's recommendation and go with aluminum pistons. I see Brad has moved in that direction an his 1925 Standard. I will ask him for the contact info for "Ross".

Tony: I have been running Autolite 3076s in my 1925-25. That was what was in the car when I bought it. Mark. Is the 3077 a hotter plug? Was the original AC Titan specified plug a 77L? A photograph in my 1925 Buick export manual shows a plug with a longer reach than the 11/16" from the gasket surface the 3076 has. I have a couple of AC Titans that look the same as this photograph with a reach of 1". They are 7/8" thread but with 1 1/8" hex which will not fit in the space on the head. The 3076 plug is a 7/8" thread with a 15/16" hex. I have an old 1936 Champion chart that has a # 6 plug specified for Buick up thru 1928. I have the old AACA Dave Chambers Buick articles from March/April 1971 and he makes no mention on what plugs to use only to widen the gap to 0.40 if you have lowered compression. Mine is down around 50 lbs.now.

Dwight: I agree with you. I have seen much more selection as far as wood wheels on e-bay. When I put in my search for 1925 Buick or 1920s Buick there has been quite a selection. Unfortunately most were not for Buicks or they were of a condition that their only value was in BTUs. I had an opportunity to buy a 1917 Buick D-44 Roadster that also had an assortment of extra parts. Among the parts were a set of 22" Buick wheels. I tried to buy just the wheels. Problem was that all was in California as a package. The 22" size is what belongs on my 1925 standard as some one in the past changed it to 21". (more tire availability) Once I offered on 2 wheels that only the spokes and hubs were left just so I could get the brake drums. My $40.00 bid was accepted but the shipping cost was to be over $275

Any word on the 1915 C-37 as of yet? 3 weeks ago I went to drive a 1913-31 as the craigslist poster said that the car ran and drove (also said that it was a 1913-25). They wanted about double for what I would consider reasonable as to the degraded (not running) condition. A 1955 restoration that has sat in an unheated metal machinery shed for over 15 years. The car has probably not been on the road since before 2000. When I arrived the owner admitted that the car has not been started in over 4 years. (The lower radiator hose was disconnected) Even though when I called the day before we agreed that I would be coming to hear the car run and to drive it. (" But it always starts with 2 or 3 pulls of the crank") This is the same story ... different day for me. Every panel had cracked and peeling paint as well as all the rust pits on the fenders resurfaced. The clutch pedal was in the depressed position and would not return as if the main pressure spring was broken. I don't mind considering a project car for a project price. But when some are asking #1 condition prices for an obvious #4-5 car.

I have e-mailed for photos but have not received an answer.

My 1937 Special harness came from Rode Island. They have an excellent product and very good diagrams and instructions. My only problem was with the "restoration"? shop that ordered the harness without the turn signal wires . I requested one with them. When I found out that they had already installed the harness I was furious! But the owner said they would take care of it which they did... By charging me over $300 for extra wire and labor to cobble up the extra circuits with extra loom runs. I know that my car is a driver but I wanted to at least keep things looking correct. Most importantly, make sure all your connections are clean. I spent days going over dirty, loose and a few incorrectly placed connections that the shop ignored. After spending over $20,000 with them the electrical system failed within 3 miles of my first drive and had to be towed home. Sorry about my rant but time has not healed me.

Matt: Thanks for posting this here and showing our presence. I received the Torque Tube II newsletter yesterday and was quite pleased with the look . Also The calendar looks great! I know I promised Joe Suarez several more articles and will send along to you.

I guess I will have to crawl under my 1925-25 and take some measurements. And check for any numbers. What size are the drums? It definitely looks like a mid 1920s axle.

Pete: I will seek out the one I bought from "Bob's" over 25 years ago and I will send it to you if it is still good. My recommendation is that you have it scanned for reference in case we can get another jobber to do this. I will also scan for my benefit at least to have a copy. Send me the address you want it shipped to. Larry

Dwight: Where are you located ? As I may have a lead on one near Baltimore.

Pete : Sorry to say I missed this. Is the screen printing on the glass ok? Or is it the metal gage cluster face that is rusty? I bought a repro face 25 years ago to redo mine but after carefully removing the bezel the original glass looked great. I just had to be careful cleaning it to avoid removing. any of the screen printed numerals. The metal cluster face is what took a lot of time and patients to re-do . I believe I took some photos and outlined the process. Also in the old Torque Tube Magazine there is an article doing the same.