dibarlaw

Midman: So good to see it out in the light of day again! We were disappointed it was unable to be at the Mason-Dixon show. Of course I was disappointed that I could not get my 1925 Touring there either. Works in progress.... As to your priming issue. Characteristic of up drafts they usually need to be choked to get the vertical flow going. Since this does not have a vacuum tank and has a fuel pump make sure you have good pressure. If it was rebuilt years ago it may need the kit for modern fuels. That horrible ethanol! Since the pump is located on the camshaft side, that is a long trip to get fuel to the carb. I know with my 1937 248 with a down draft Marvel as long as I start it every several days it only takes several spins of the flywheel to get thing going. (I do not have an electric pump on it). Leave it a week or more and it does take a lot longer. (Leak down.) That is where an electric fuel pump in line helps out. To keep the wear down on the flywheel ring gear. Once you are driving the car more often that should be less noticeable.

I was able to at least get Beulah out to turn her around in the driveway and put the top down. She is still having some issues that are keeping her off the street.

Finally got "Beulah" out in the sunshine to put down the top and check both the top rests and the holders. They both have the rear socket sit in the same attitude, horizontal. I checked with a straight edge. Again my top sockets are incorrect for the car. The top does not fold well with how they were cut down.

We had our 8th annual Mason-Dixon car show on Saturday. 57 cars registered. It is always great when something special shows up. Pre-War cars only 3. Last several years we had as many as 7 or 8. This stunning 1933 Victoria Coupe was trailered from Mars PA around 240 miles to our little show. The good thing was that the owner received the Best of Show award and the Dealers Choice award. The photo shows my shabby 1937 Special in the back round.

Brian : I am not concerned about the hood on my1925 flying off since it is still unresponsive. I am running out of things to re-do and trouble shoot. So far; new plugs, cleaned /reset points, compression check good, re-timed (twice), replaced condenser, replaced coil, re-checked the heat riser sleeve (no leaks) refit all the carb dashpot valve to venturi block according to Marvel book specs. I thought I had the culprit with a bent condenser lead shorting to the breaker plate. Fixed that and it ran great again. I took it out for a ride and was barely able to get it back in the garage. Dead throttle and backfiring again. So on tour we will be following you people at a respectful distance with our modern car.

Mike : Glad you got the image. I went to redo the image last night and I had a hostile take over of my computer by Windows 10. So I am still dealing with new passwords etc. At least I am back on the forum.

When I had inquired in January they never responded with an asking price. Seemed as though they were just looking for offers.

I thought I had seen an ad for Martin Tires. This was from an old car magazine. May-June 1966. Should not be a copywriter issue since this is an ad and not an article.

In a pinch I used a cut off tubeless tire valve stem bottom since it had a recess for a washer. The McMaster Carr product looks good but since it mentions "Hard Rubber" it may not be very pliable.

Thanks to all who voted for us. I am anxious to serve our membership.

Hugh: If I can ever get my car running to get it out of the garage to be able to put the top down I will see which of the 2 rests works best. If so, I can send mine for a pattern.

Dave: This is the same stuff I used on the 1937. It was hard to make it pretty but it worked fine in the 100 + degree heat on our trip to South Bend.

John: I was wondering what the Luray Swap meet was like. Just about my same reaction about Chickasha. Lots of model A and T stuff not much for Buick people. Since we will probably be tied up with BCA stuff during the anniversary celebration on Saturday Joan and I went to the Bulgari collection tour and ran the 2nd day of the pre-war after tour. Wow .... what a collection. This was one of 8 buildings/shops we toured. The view from Bulgari's apartment. I have been lusting for another Buick, this time a 1923-55 Sport Touring in Tucson AZ! Needs work and I can help Dave Coco meet his expenses if I can get it. We have made an offer lower than the asking price, deducting the estimated price of a new top. I know someone near who has some expertise in nurturing 1923 Buicks.....Even if it is a McLaughlin. I know the fit and finish of your McLaughlin was better than the Flint cars. Do you have any reference to a 1923 McLaughlin model 55?

John: Put Joan and I down on your list.

I just spoke to the owner and he has promised me more photos. He indicated that this was his fathers car that was purchased from another Tucson car club member in the 1960s. It shows over 90,000 miles. It has not been driven for over 10 years. They have tried to get it running but will not stay running because of the usual fuel related issues. It had been re-upholstered in vinyl and said that it is also worn. So none of the unique Spanish Grain pattern is left except what is on the dash. The top sockets and bows are present but there is no top material. He does not know if the wind wing hardware is there. He said his father had a basket case 1922 (4cyl.?6cyl?) chassis and misc.1922 parts in boxes which he can not identify. These are also available .This photo is of a 1923-55 with what the original upholstery grain pattern is to look like.

Really neat! The first link has a lot of great photos. Again we see quite a few of these types of ads that state "original, unrestored" and such. As the director of the Mason-Dixon Chapter of the BCA I do get requests to find buyers for a car. Amazing how many have told me that the car has never been restored and that all is as original.... except....." it had a new paint job in 1950 or so in a better color and the leather was replaced with vinyl and the engine was replaced with a newer rebuilt one. We just got tired of it and parked it in 1955 so it should still run". Most appear to have at least had a "Used Car" fix up in the late 1940s or 50s. I wonder when the # 19 Montana Pioneer plate was issued. Still a great find and in running condition!

I gave up trying since it would not accept my member code or the code for Mason-Dixon since I am the director.

While meeting with the people at Freysinger Buick in Mechanicsburg PA. for our upcoming Mason-Dixon show (June 4th). I sat in the one that was in the show room (Flip Chip Silver). They also had a Graystone metalic one outside and my comment to my wife was that it did look like the Chrysler. I also noted that most of the components are from Poland and I believe the final assembly in also in Poland. I have the sales brochure and was unimpressed with the colors offered. Most new cars I see in our area no mater what the make are BLACK, WHITE, GRAY, SILVER and an occasional BLUE. I also looked at a Encore and the sales man indicated that the 2017s will loose the vertical Buick type grill.

1923 Sedan? Try a 1923-55 Sport Touring. The interior photos check. I would need to see the back for the trunk rack /tire carriers to be sure. I would really love to have one of these! Looks to have been restored at some time. There were several offered in the Buick Bugle over the last couple of years and on Ebay, Hemmings etc. So with this one 4 more have shown up recently. Same problem that I always have. It is on the wrong side of the USA. I almost went for the rough, black example in Michigan. The 1923-54 sport Roadster in Vermont was the beginning of us "Looking For A Driver Buick" posts on the forum. Wishing does not make it so. I still need to focus on keeping my 1925-25 running.

1924 through 1927. The angled threaded posts are for sedans and coupes. Straight ones are for touring and roadsters. (Different cowl shape) 2 different sizes. Larger for the big 6 or later Master series. Smaller for the 1924 30 series cars and 1925-1927 Standards. These are steel bodied lights. Nickel plated brass bodies are for sport models.

Even though I have my 5 gallon FRY pump now bolted down, someone will still destroy the mounting if they want it bad enough. When I was on the Petrolina Forums this was a common story. Mine is worth nowhere near what a pump with it's original parts is worth since I am missing the pump base and the glass cylinder was replaced with acrylic. I hope they find the culprit !!! I will be suspicious if a Pump base shows up for sale.

There is the 1924-55 that was advertised in the Bugle last month. It is now on the Hemmings site at $65,000 firm. (It had already gone thru Ebay and the most it was bid to was $35,000) In the Hemmings ad there are some photos of his top holders as well as a video. The photo of the top down really looks bizarre. It sits up way too high and looks like it is covered in a bed sheet. I believe the too tall travel trunks that he and the 1925-55 advertised on antique cars.com have installed on their cars make them look that way. The holders I have for my 1925-25 very nearly match the positioning on the photo I posted on the other thread about the 1925-55. From what I have seen on these cars the rear most socket should rest in a horizontal attitude. Leif's 1925-25 top sits lower since his last socket swings under at the pivot point while in this B/W photo (and on my car the rear socket) swings up at the pivot.

Rod: I don't have a 1925 Master Book of Parts but the 1925 McLaughlin Standard book that Leif had sent me copies of does list top rests. The Flint USA book I have calls for Top Holders there is no mentioning of "rests". I picked up a cast iron set on Ebay which I feel are correct for my car. Even so the construction of these holders are inclined in at the top towards the body. That would be fine except whoever made up my adapted top sockets made the bows all the same length. The top is just as wide at the rear as at the front. So instead of the folded top slightly nesting everything stacks vertically. Leif and Hugh have given me size information from their cars to know that unless I can find the correct sockets I would not be able to squeeze my top sockets into the clamps. So I will be using the rests for now. The 1914-1930 Master parts book page 350 shows top holder part # 184696 right 184697 left for 1925-45-49-55-X45-49-55 Top rest # 182694 1925-X25-45-49-for Burbank tops (2) req. #189186 1925-25S-X25S-1926-55-X55 Right after I got these I also found on Ebay a set of painted cast iron rests. Unfortunately when they arrived they did not match. One is longer than the other. I have not put the top down to check which is a best fit.

Rod: Thank you for the detailed photos. Fabulous work! I will not complain about the rotted sections I have had to replace..

It would be great for a tribute Beverly Hillbillies truck!