dibarlaw

Great Information. Interesting that the 1925-25S Sport Touring is only a $12.00 appraisal in 1931. Also in 1931 even the 1931 90 series cars are appraised to about half of list sale price. The 7 passenger Limo. 90L lists at $2035 and appraises at $1035. If the next page was there it may show that my 1925-25 may only be $10.00! Looks as though roadsters appraised at a bit more. Of course that was the dealers allowance. They would probably ask $30.00 on the lot Buy a new Buick and pay $28,000 and then try to sell a month later and only get $14,000. The dealers would love that!

Rod: Thanks for the photo. Such a shame It looks like it was a model 54 Sport Roadster. If my son (who drives flat bed out to the region) could only drag it home for me!

If I could get another 37 that is for sale near by. I should know by Sunday. (An AACA grand national 1937 40C). I would gladly sell my 37-41 sedan and drive it down to deliver! We did the 36-38 Club tour in Nashville last Sept. and drove 1,550 miles without an issue! April 2nd Rural Heritage Museum Tour.

As Mason-Dixon Director I get many of these requests. Any leads for her? Hi- I am contacting you from Winterthur Museum in Wilmington, DE. We are looking for a 1947 Buick station in the region, whose owner might be willing to participate in our Invitational in May. Could you please forward to anyone you may know? Thank you! http://www.winterthur.org/?p=1246 Jennie Brown Public Programs Assistant Winterthur Museum, Garden & Library 5105 Kennett Pike Winterthur, Delaware 19735 302.888.4931 302.888.4953 fax

Marty and Matt: I was reading the article last night and thought I was just sleepy!. I eventually did as Marty said and it made perfect sense. Matt, this issue of the TTII was fabulous!

Make sure that you have a BUICK clutch and not an aftermarket. "Cars" sent mine out to get done (to Florida) then after a month said that it could not be relined since it was an aftermarket one. They did not have stock facings to fit. They also would not accept my clutch disk as a core for a new one (exchange only). They also lost my pressure plate! They did send me another but I had made sure my pressure plate was marked to be replaced in the same position on the flywheel. It was over 3 months before I had all these parts back. I never did find another Buick clutch disk until recently. I took the one I had and sent it to our local NAPA store that still had a machine shop at the time (1988). They quoted me about $35.00 to re-face it. Using the fact that they just charged around $45.00 to a restoration place in town for a double plate clutch for a STUTZ DV-32. They called 3 weeks later to say it was going to be over $165.00! The same reason as with CARS was that they had to make the facings special for it. Remember this was at a time when we still had to send a SASE through the mail for a response. A long distance phone call was also a budgeted item! I did get them to get the price down to around $130. Nearly a year and no clutch. All these issues slowed any progress on my 37-41 and eventually stopped progress for 24 more years. Fast forward to 2012 when I had to send my car out to finally get some work done. By then I had several clutches accumulated. None matching a BUICK clutch. Each one was supposed to work including (an International Scout 10" 1/14" X10 spline). Which one to install? I chose the one I had done at NAPA since that was the most expensive. I have driven the car over 6,000 miles. The clutch works fine except it does have a bit of chatter.

Not wishing to dilute Hugh's 1925-25 pattern project I would like to show what I did to temporarily repair some missing/rotted out parts. The project started with chunks of wood falling out of the drivers door each time it closed. I also wanted to reproduce the door pockets that were not included when the car was re-upholstered in the 1960s or70s. So I removed the panel and found a diagonal steel plate to hold the rotted front bottom corner together. Next door removal, re-create the wood, re-fit and re-hang door then find that the cowl hinge post is also spongy on the bottom. I remove and redo that. Great!. Now the door closes easily with a soli click. I learned a lot as how to get everything to align properly. Now, I might as well do the passenger door which had a loose sloppy fit and the passenger had to fight to keep closed. Good news! They had already made new wood pieces for this door. The hinge post was quite solid and not spongy. Unfortunately whoever did the work did not even prime the exposed inner flange of the door and it was vintage rust. Just nailed the rusty skin on to the new wood and painted the outside. So while I had the door off I cleaned /primed and painted these areas. The strike bar needed redone since there were many years of misalignment scars. The rubber bumpers had turned to rocks and needed to be reproduced. I had already did some temporary work at the base of the strike post (glue in some splinters of wood in the old holes and longer screws). Now I needed to strengthen the base of tis area. Well, one starts digging and before long I had several handfuls of shredded rotted wood, bent upholstery tacks etc. I had removed material up to 5" above the sill until I could find reasonably solid wood. I needed to engineer a piece to be solid yet fit around the bolt that connects to the support plate. This is what I came up with. I drilled holes for long #4 screws. These holes allowed me to thread a wire through them so I could get the smaller piece behind the bolt and then pull everything together. Using the wire and stick like a tourniquet. My intention was to maintain pressure on the bolt to help strengthen and stabilize the post at its base. After I glued all in place and allowing for some set up time I removed the wire and installed the #4 screws to pull things tightly together. I fitted some veneer shims and then trimmed all before final prep for re-finishing.

As someone who has had to reproduce some minor wood pieces in the doors and hinge post on my car, I can appreciate the dedication you must have to this project. I hope others who have need of this come forward. Unfortunately, the dozen or so cars I know of are pretty much together, Having said that, I really appreciated the images Hugh has posted. I have had to replace some of the bottom of the right side of striker post. My issue is that to access all this wood the body has to be off the frame. Not something I wanted to do on my car. so I had to repair in place.

Like Marty stated do the entire system replacement. Lines hoses etc. We had done so and our 1937-41 stops great. Just remember these braking systems do need maintenance/adjustment to work at their best. While on tour with the 1936-38 club one of our members had his brakes lock up. Return hole in the master cylinder plugged up. We tried to effect an on the road repair. We had to bleed the brakes in order to get the car moved out of traffic. The fluid in the master cylinder was the consistency of molasses.

I have the same set up in my 1937-41.(2 hanging straps). 1937-44 gave me a folded sheet metal box to replace these home made straps. The original would have an actual box. These boxes rusted out quickly. I would keep the battery where it is as the positive cable is long enough as it is..

We took "Lucy" out for exercise to church then a 40 mile trip around the beautiful South Central PA. countryside. Gas has gone up to $235 here. When we drove to Chickasha in March it was $1.65 in VA.

Lamar: I went to meet Barnfinder and see the car over a month ago. As much as I would have liked to help the owner it is a much bigger project than I could take on. I did my part in preaching the gospel of the BCA. Giving him copies of the Bugle and our Mason/Dixon newsletter hoping for a convert! My assessment was that the car had a fix up restoration in the 1950s with minimal concern for authenticity. It was driven sporadically until 1965 and re-retired to the barn. It appeared solid.I did not poke around the sills etc. The paint was not done well with many pits, cracked and peeling sections. Above the belt line it is to be Patrol Green. Tires looked very good considering that they were over 50 years old at least. The top was well made but very stained and fragile. The upholstery is of roughly done vinyl. Any nickel plating is long gone. Most of the pot metal trim pieces, switches etc. were broken. It did not appear that the lights were even hooked up. Everything does need attended to. It is not a couple of weekends going over the cosmetics, engine, wiring, brakes etc. so one can drive to a local show. This looked to be a full on commitment to get it to a drivable state. The replacement engine serial # was for a 1927 standard but has much jury-rigging to get it to run. Barnfinder said that the original owner had it running for him before he purchased the car. Flipped manifold with downdraft carb with a lawn tractor fuel tank. All the Marvel carb parts and vacuum tank were in a box but very rusty and in pieces. Also the spark /throttle linkages were removed and nothing connected to the broken (die cast) distributer. The original engine was also there and was to have a cracked block.. If I did not have my 1925 to keep me busy I would have really loved to have this roadster. Barnfinder asked if I would be interested in buying the car. I have spoken with him since and he reconsidered and is keeping It. We wish him well.

Tom: Congratulations. It is nice that the car will still be near by. I remember when we went to look at the our 1925 at Ogdensburg NY. and looking across the river and seeing Canada.

Marty: Thanks for posting photos of the Hudson. I wanted to see what you replaced the 1914 Buick with. I looked at the purchase of a very nice 1914-15? 6-40 Hudson at the Hershey car corral about 13 ? years ago. There was an executor for the estate of the deceased owner at the car whom we spoke to. They were asking $10,500. It was hard to walk away from that one. I believe it went from owner to dealer to dealer for the next 2 years at Hershey.

Thanks to all. I will tell him the consensus is engine color. I did paint the intakes of my 1925 and 1937 engine color.

This1913 Buick I offered on had the badges tacked everywhere. It had a similar undated badge centered below the "1913 BUICK". I have seem many of the early (1950s-60s hobby participants) tack them on the cowl and anywhere else that would fit. It seemed to be the thing to do at the time. Others have a display board to show the awards. .

One of our Mason/Dixon members is working on his 1946 Super engine and wanted to know what the intake manifold color should be.

Wow Mike, you never know who you will find when you open one of these threads. I would love to help if I can.

Mike : That is what I thought. I have a 49 owners manual and it shows the Special series with the speaker above the radio and Super /Roadmaster speaker below. Here is the photo you suggested. Oh, that is not a crack in the 2 center bars it is a reflection of a wire overhead. Larry

I am not sure if the Supers are the same as the Roadmaster. I know the Specials are different. I know this radio was taken from my uncle's 1949 Roadmaster around 1960 and is available. Speaker grill chrome is very nice.

When I was having the same issues with my 25-25s original radiator I had done all the above and still the overheating but no seepage or leaking. The core had a small section removed and several soldered patches done by the previous owner. My radiator man said it was clean and flowed well after he went thru it. Same problem after I reinstalled.it. A local Mason-Dixon club friend sold me a 1925 standard radiator that looked to be in good shape. While I was doing a pre-cleaning prior to sending it out to get done at the radiator shop I put too much pressure with a flusher unit. When my radiator man checked it out he said it leaked like "someone took a shotgun to it". Expensive mistake! So I had that radiator re-cored with a HD modern core at over $900. No overheating ever since. The non honeycomb look does not bother me for my driver. Now if I can only get it running happily again!! Original radiator when I got the car in 2011 Re-cored and repainted shell, 2014 Jan 2016, with my powder coated bumpers seep marks and missing section in lower left. and re-silvered reflectors.

All my lighting seems to functioning well. I rebuilt all the switch unit and it operates as Leif indicates. All connections cleaned and had the reflectors re-silvered. I did install the halogen bulbs. It did not appear to give me that much more light than the regular bulbs. It does not matter if I used them or incandescent bulbs when I switch to dim I would expect about 1/2 the light intensity. There is hardly the glow of a candle. So yes it is dim!!

Brian: Glad you are getting the S/G taken care of. Dave Blaufarb picked up a D-249 unit in pieces (cleaned up, painted but apart) at Hershey thinking that I could use it. The distributer housing was missing and also the brush cover. I believe that some of the brush holders may be interchangeable with my D-283 unit. I have a spare S/G for my 1925 Standard but the brush holders were stripped out. So I hope these brush holders fit. I was out working on the 25 yesterday and am still having issues. Starts up. idles smooth for about 30 seconds. Accelerates smooth. Then the throttle goes dead and then it gets worse. When I try to give it a bit of gas then it begins to backfire. I had it running for about 5 minutes and as I said things got worse as it warmed up. Decided misses and seems that fewer cylinders are firing the longer it runs. That is why I believe it is a coil problem. I am avoiding taking off the heat riser as of yet. I bought a new condenser from BOB's last fall because the points were burning. I had to redress and reset the points to get it running this time. Seemed to be burned worse than before. I will check the coil (modern style) to see if it is breaking down.

Mark: I am so glad it has finally gone to a "Buick Loving Home". I can send you all the photos I took of the car at the mechanics garage while I was trying to negotiate with the owners. You will have a wonderful support group with Larry Schramm and Brian Heil nearby! I want a ride!

Saturday April 2nd the Mason-Dixon Chapter had a tour near Sharpsburg MD. Most thought it was too early in the season to bring out their cars. But we drove "Lucy" our 1937. We had good company with a 1930 Franklin and a 1931 Ford at the Rural Heritage Museum. It has about 30 cars on display. 5 locally made. 2 Dagmars, 2 Pope Tribunes from Hagerstown and A Crawford from Martinsburg WV. .